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Old 10-11-2004, 08:13 AM
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Exact difference between "street" and "race"?

Hello guys. I live in Sweden and I'm not really familiar with the words "street" and "race" in the same way you are.

Ofcourse I understand the direct translation but where do you all (aftermarket part dealers,book authors, magazines etc.) draw the line between "street" and "race"?

Let's say i want to build a engine suitable for driving short distances (to the shop, on a night cruise, maybe even between near located cities) but i dont really demand any performance during this trips. As long engine doesn't break down every 5000 miles I'm happy.

However I want full performance (lets say suitable for making 12s runs with a SBC in a 3500lbs car) when i race, which will mostly be on the street, but sometimes also on the drag-strip.

What kind of parts should i buy?

For example, should i go for a "street cam" or a "race cam"?

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Old 10-11-2004, 08:25 AM
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The difference between street and race is kind of like beauty, it's in the eye of the beholder. For some people street basically means something that may have enhanced performance but is very docile and has good manners on the street. Others would consider a full race pro-street car a street car as long as it has everything required to legally drive it on the street. So really the exact definition is pretty much up to you. If you build a car you consider tame enough for the street and it's legal to license then it's a street car. Take it to the strip and open the headers and it's a race car.

One last thing. HotRodders.com does not in any way condone street racing. It is dangerous and illegal for a good reason, people often die. If you're going to race, do it on the race track where it's relatively safe.

Have fun but do it safely.

Centerline
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Old 10-11-2004, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Centerline
The difference between street and race is kind of like beauty, it's in the eye of the beholder. For some people street basically means something that may have enhanced performance but is very docile and has good manners on the street. Others would consider a full race pro-street car a street car as long as it has everything required to legally drive it on the street. So really the exact definition is pretty much up to you. If you build a car you consider tame enough for the street and it's legal to license then it's a street car. Take it to the strip and open the headers and it's a race car.

One last thing. HotRodders.com does not in any way condone street racing. It is dangerous and illegal for a good reason, people often die. If you're going to race, do it on the race track where it's relatively safe.

Have fun but do it safely.

Centerline
I understand you, and Hotrodders.com:s view on streetracing and i wont mention it again. (However to my excuse, i must mention that dragstrips are rear in Sweden, and we have therefore developed quite reasonable security during nightly races, but ofcourse it still is more dangerous than any type of drag-racing.)

To go back to the question, i dont exactly understand what you mean. I mean OK, some people lika ot call their cars "street"-cars and some "race"-cars, but what sort of engine setup should i be looking for.

I dont really care if people call my car street or race as long as it runs the way i want, which basically means:
*Built to run as fast as it can on the standing quartermile while still allowing normal driving whenever i desire without constantly breaking down.

Gas mileage and such things doesn't matter, as long as the engine is "reliable" (too some extent ofcourse, i havent got dreams of building the engine end drivign 50k miles with it without opening it up once)
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Old 10-11-2004, 04:48 PM
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Better questions.....

1. What is the budget?
2. What do you want for horsepower/torque goal?
3. Is it a Chevy 350 we are talking about?
4. What is the transmission/rear end set-up, or are those going to be changed?
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Old 10-11-2004, 05:22 PM
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Pro-street 53 Chevy street car....

My 53 is tubed, that mean's the rear frame was cut and back halved and a 4link hooked to a shortened Ford 9" rear end was installed and there is a full roll cage and my SBC is putting out about 350hp. I installed disc brakes on the front and rear and a line lock to help with burnouts at the track when I go racing. I have shoulder and lap safety belts and a ratchet shifter to manually shift my th350 trans if I need to. I drive a race car on the street almost every day.


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Old 10-12-2004, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by gpeak
Better questions.....

1. What is the budget?
2. What do you want for horsepower/torque goal?
3. Is it a Chevy 350 we are talking about?
4. What is the transmission/rear end set-up, or are those going to be changed?
I havent started on the project yet but:

1. Not more than 5k including the engine block.
2.Goal is 400hp + 100 shot.
3. Yes it will be a 350 Chevy.
4. I am going for an all-race type of rear-end. I'll buy the best i can afford. Say 4-5:1. Torqe converter will also have an high stall.

Like i said prevoiusly. As long as it can run on the streets without taking too much damage, anything is ok. That includes low top speed, high mileage, messy to drive in tight traffic/queues etc.

Quote:
Originally posted by tm454
My 53 is tubed, that mean's the rear frame was cut and back halved and a 4link hooked to a shortened Ford 9" rear end was installed and there is a full roll cage and my SBC is putting out about 350hp. I installed disc brakes on the front and rear and a line lock to help with burnouts at the track when I go racing. I have shoulder and lap safety belts and a ratchet shifter to manually shift my th350 trans if I need to. I drive a race car on the street almost every day.


Tazz


Rat Rods Rule!
So which type of parts do you buy most often? Are they from the Race-section of the catalog, or the "street"-section ?
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Old 10-16-2004, 05:04 PM
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A little of both worlds. My bucket seats are comfortable...not the sanitary drag strip version. I want some comfort. The tires are street/strip, 19.5"X33"X15" DOT approved....$600 as set. The trans is set up for the strip...valve body is stiff and the ratchet shifter so I can manually shift the car when I want to. Bored 350 with a mild street cam...headers, high-rise intake, side-pipes and glass pack mufflers...she's LOUD! The body looks stock and handles well on wet or dry pavement...the car is HEAVY man! A 53 Chevy should not be sent ot the strip...its like taking a tank drag racing...I didn't cut it up but I made it steetable again! I use the line lock from light ot light on the street...set the brake and push the button and it holds the car at the light. Dosn't get good gas mileage...3:50 posi gears. Just plain fun to drive and it not JAP CRAP or EURO junk it's a street Rod man!!!!


Tazz


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Old 10-16-2004, 05:38 PM
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The easiest way to draw a line between the two would be the question: Will it run on pump gas (93 octane) and if you get caught in a traffic jam will it load up/overheat and die?? A good way to have the best of both worlds is to look at how the imports get performance. Turbocharging while expensive and technical, makes lots of hp but gives good gas mileage too. Nitrous, been around since WW2, makes instant hp for a short time when you want it. Add the two, build an engine able to take advantage of the combo and stand the high stress loads and you got a kitten that can be a tiger when you want it to be. Iv'e owned Killer Gorilla cars before and while fun part of the time, they can really be a pain it the ***** to drive & own.
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Old 10-16-2004, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pony
The easiest way to draw a line between the two would be the question: Will it run on pump gas (93 octane) and if you get caught in a traffic jam will it load up/overheat and die??
Interesting description, new info to me.

This car will drive on pump gas (95 or 98 in sweden) and ofcourse i dont want a car that get soverheated if i should get stucked in traffic.

Should i go for a street cam (and other street parts then) then?
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Old 10-18-2004, 07:47 PM
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I would research for a cam that will provide power at the rpms you will operate at. You probably wouldn't want a cam that "comes on" at 3,000 rpm or more because it would be a pig on the street unless you run really steep (high number) rear gears.
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