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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2012, 12:30 PM
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exaust pipe seal leak ????

OK. I attached my pipes back to the manifolds after putting in a new engine.
I have a 2001 chevy express w/4.3l. The seals are ceramic donut shaped seals. One of the seals is leaking pretty bad. I tried tightening, but to no avail. Is there a trick, procedure, or something that i'm missing? Neither seal leaked before I unhooked the pipes. Do these seals wear out? Visually the seals looked fine. Should I just get a new seal?

What about the older style seals? Will they work?

I successfully put in a new engine/fuel injection, and countless other parts and upgrades.......And it is the pipe seal that has me stumped.

Thanks Hotrodders!
Brian

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Old 06-11-2012, 04:37 AM
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I know diddly squat about chevs but the donut seals i have used in other cars work if they are evenly crushed around the circle. I found they will leak if the two opposing surfaces show signs of corrosion even with new seals. A smear of exhaust cement sometimes helps to even up the corroded mating surfaces. My new headers off the shelf were not flat on the flange face and needed working on a linisher to get a flat surface . They leaked and now they dont. There has to be even crush to get a good seal imo.
Al.
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Old 06-11-2012, 12:49 PM
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Buy them from the dealer. I have had no luck with after market ones
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Mustang Al.
I know diddly squat about chevs but the donut seals i have used in other cars work if they are evenly crushed around the circle. I found they will leak if the two opposing surfaces show signs of corrosion even with new seals. A smear of exhaust cement sometimes helps to even up the corroded mating surfaces. My new headers off the shelf were not flat on the flange face and needed working on a linisher to get a flat surface . They leaked and now they dont. There has to be even crush to get a good seal imo.
Al.

Well I purchased new seals. These seals are ceramic, not like the crushable tin foil looking seals-which are used on older chevys. My old seals did not look worn at all. They looked just like the new ones pretty much. I installed them
and this time I tightened the nuts a little at a time, moving from one pipe to the other. Just like torquing down an intake manifold or head bolts. Well that seemed to do it. No more leak. I dont know if it was because the seals were new,
or if my careful approach solved it.


So if your a ford guy, maybe you can help me out with another post, here: oil pan gasket replacement-1990 f150??

Thanks
Brian

ps
the seals were dealer seals, not aftermarket.

Last edited by 68NovaSS; 06-11-2012 at 09:30 PM. Reason: Violation of guidelines. Please see: general board guidelines.
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briansansone
Well I purchased new seals. These seals are ceramic, not like the crushable tin foil looking seals-which are used on older chevys. My old seals did not look worn at all. They looked just like the new ones pretty much. I installed them
and this time I tightened the nuts a little at a time, moving from one pipe to the other. Just like torquing down an intake manifold or head bolts. Well that seemed to do it. No more leak. I dont know if it was because the seals were new,
or if my careful approach solved it.


So if your a ford guy, maybe you can help me out with another post, here: oil pan gasket replacement-1990 f150??

Thanks
Brian

ps
the seals were dealer seals, not aftermarket.
Well Brian, i hate oil leaks so when i rebuilt the new 347 i put a one piece neopreme leakproof summit racing gasket with anti crush inserts molded into it. About a week after the engine install it began to leak from the rear semicircle. I have a large capacity Milodon sump which appears to fit neatly at each end. I have had the sump off again and used an rtv high temp silicone with the neoprene gasket , reassembled and it leaks at a slower rate. Had a conversation with the local engine builders who have two options.
1. Dont use a gasket , just glue it on as per Toyota oe assembly.
2. Use the old style 4 piece felpro which have the two rubber half circles and cork side strips using rtv silicone in the corners .
I have not taken it off for the third time to try either of the two.
I use to own another early model Ford with a standard 302 and it never leaked from the sump with the standard 4 piece set.
Cheers
Al
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Old 06-12-2012, 02:27 PM
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Hey thanks

I would be livid to do all the work necessary to put a new one piece seal
and then find it leaking in a week. I had no idea there could be a problem
with a one peice seal. I will definitely use the four piece, and it sounds like I would not have to disconnect the exhaust, jack the engine up and drop the oil pump to put on a four piece seal.

Gluing on the pan sounds a bit extreme?? What type of glue would I use??
Construction adhesive??

Thanks for the heads up!
Brian
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briansansone
Hey thanks

I would be livid to do all the work necessary to put a new one piece seal
and then find it leaking in a week. I had no idea there could be a problem
with a one peice seal. I will definitely use the four piece, and it sounds like I would not have to disconnect the exhaust, jack the engine up and drop the oil pump to put on a four piece seal.

Gluing on the pan sounds a bit extreme?? What type of glue would I use??
Construction adhesive??

Thanks for the heads up!
Brian
i use a product called THE RIGHT STUFF
i love it.
expensive and works everytime
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:27 AM
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Maybe the pan is bent. The right stuff is awesome and will make up for irregularities in the pan.
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