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exhaust clearance issues, am i at risk for a fire??

2K views 25 replies 9 participants last post by  willowbilly3 
#1 ·
so bought a set of hugger headers for my 305 in my 85 grand prix. only because i snapped my exhaust manifold off on the driver side. BUT. now that i got them put in...they bolth have the collection chamber that comes straight down off the 2 center cylinders. and guess where the bolth point straight at? the backside of the top on the frame( not sure of the actual name) where it runs under the motor and the motors connects to the frame. theirs about a half inch clearance on the outside and an inch or so on the inside..i don't mind running headers alone (the super loud noise doesn't bother me :D ) BUT i don't know if its a fire hazard..like will it get hot enough to actually catch my frame on fire? if it will get that hot, how long do i have (incase i absolutly HAVE to drive it) untill im running a real risk. is there an easy way to route this it so i can just leave um? i really cant afford another set of headers. Any ideas guys?
 
#2 ·
I think what you're saying is that you screwed up in the first place and bought some Fosdick shorty headers that are worthless. You screwed up in the second place by buying the wrong part number for your application. Now, the collectors are terminating at the engine crossmember and you fear a fire.

Depends on how much grease and oil are there, but yeah, it's possible to have a fire.

Lesson of Life #1.
Don't hot-rod your daily driver.

Lesson of Life #2.
Never buy anything for your car until you talk to someone who has been there, done that.

Lesson of Life #3.
Always start at the rear of the car with tires, wheels, suspension, shocks and gears. Work your way forward in the car.
 
#4 ·
its not my daily driver. i have an brand new honda for that lol. i just like to put around in this. but i snapped my drive side exhaust manifold loading it on the trainer and the way i had it rigged up was no longer working out. yea i got the wrong headers but i found the right one for my specific application. so in theory if i made sure the the cross member was clean i could run these untill i can afford the correct set in about 2 weeks? which would be about 2-3 drives. i only drive it when my wife needs the honda. and as far as the fumes, aslong as i drive fast it cant be any worse than when i had the exhaust rigged, it was spittin more fumes out of the giant hole then hell it self...haha
 
#8 ·
haha, as much as i hate forign myself it is hlaf the weight of most hotrods and making almost 200horse. BUT a wise man once said, horse power sells cars, torque wins races. plus its better on gas :) but as far is fire hazard foreal guys if i clean up the crossmember whats the chances of the old girl burning to the ground on a 20 minute trip? JUST for 2-3 trips (which is 1-3 weeks) when i can afford the right set of headers...
 
#12 ·
ok seriously then.

the brake lines would have to be moved as they will boil.

you would need to swap out the mounts to solid as they will melt.

also make sure the ac works as the flames that are shooting against the floorpan due to the high speeds will certainly warm up the interior possibly melt you basketball shoes
 
#14 ·
ok so driving to work was a crud idea..i get that. BUT i live in an apartment complex and am not allowed to have a car here that doesn't "run and go". would i be ok to drive it the 100ft to park it on the side of the street if they give me a hassle? im not trying to sound like a young punk or anything and im sorry if i offended you techinspector. they just have very strict rules and reg. where im living. im technicaly not even aloud to work on my car, my property managers can tow my car if it isnt atleast a little mobile...i found athe headers i actualy need for about 120. so im gonna sell these headers and pay the differance to buy the ones i need. sorry if i made anyone angrey
 
#19 ·
its not that you will want to do other mods to the car. for the "kind of money" you are going to spend there will be things that brake and things that you will need to replace. these cars aren't just a set and go thing (at least mine isn't) they take constant upkeep to keep then running to there full pontental. or maybe i just haven't figured out my cars sweet spot. it could be my inexperience that i have to keep tweeking/adjusting things. or it very well could be that that is normal. that i have not figured out yet, but weather is my race truck or its my daily driver hot rod they both take my constant attention.
 
#22 ·
JLBpontiac350 said:
would i be ok to drive it the 100ft to park it on the side of the street if they give me a hassle?
Most likely this will not be a problem as far as setting fire to it. Just use your eyes to see if there's anything that the exhaust will be hitting directly- or that the exhaust could be deflected onto- that could catch fire.

There ARE fuel and brake lines that run along the front frame rails and crossmember. Be sure the exhaust isn't hitting them. Only start it if it's necessary, don't jazz the throttle to impress the girls- move the car quickly, shut it off and pop the hood to check for anything smouldering. Keep a hose or extinguisher handy if there's any doubt about fire or what the exhaust is hitting. Degreasing everything will obviously help. Even using sheet metal or a pizza pan/cookie sheet to deflect the exhaust away from things and to act as a heat barrier could help.

W/o seeing it for myself that's about all I can offer in the way of advice.
 
#23 ·
JLBpontiac350 said:
ok so driving to work was a crud idea..i get that. BUT i live in an apartment complex and am not allowed to have a car here that doesn't "run and go". would i be ok to drive it the 100ft to park it on the side of the street if they give me a hassle? im not trying to sound like a young punk or anything and im sorry if i offended you techinspector. they just have very strict rules and reg. where im living. im technicaly not even aloud to work on my car, my property managers can tow my car if it isnt atleast a little mobile...i found athe headers i actualy need for about 120. so im gonna sell these headers and pay the differance to buy the ones i need. sorry if i made anyone angrey
You sound like a WyoTech'er
 
#24 ·
The easiest quick fix you could do is run to the local parts store and buy flex pipe then u can direct the exhaust anyway you want until you get the proper materials but i would nodt recommend driving arkund like this for flex pipe can fail after lengthy exposure to high heat conditions
 
#25 ·
JLBpontiac350 said:
buy one outright? haha your funny. im not talkin about restoring one, im talkin about all done. 20k being my top price. my honda i payed about that for so i know i can get the loan once this is payed off.
keep dreaming. No financial institution is going to loan you $20k for a 42 year old car. $20k is also bottom dollar pricing for a '69 396 SS.
 
#26 ·
cobalt327 said:
Most likely this will not be a problem as far as setting fire to it. Just use your eyes to see if there's anything that the exhaust will be hitting directly- or that the exhaust could be deflected onto- that could catch fire.

There ARE fuel and brake lines that run along the front frame rails and crossmember. Be sure the exhaust isn't hitting them. Only start it if it's necessary, don't jazz the throttle to impress the girls- move the car quickly, shut it off and pop the hood to check for anything smouldering. Keep a hose or extinguisher handy if there's any doubt about fire or what the exhaust is hitting. Degreasing everything will obviously help. Even using sheet metal or a pizza pan/cookie sheet to deflect the exhaust away from things and to act as a heat barrier could help.

W/o seeing it for myself that's about all I can offer in the way of advice.
Good lord, that's about like coaching someone on how to drive a car with no brakes.
No way should this car be driven or even started with those headers.
 
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