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Old 12-28-2001, 05:49 AM
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Post Exhaust Size

My 57 Chevy is going to have a stock 350 with dual plane intake ,factory 4bbl carb and rams horn truck exhaust manifolds. I have a bunch of 2" stainless exhaust pipe. Should I use this or would I be better off to spend some money and get 2.5" stuff? The truck motor only had 2" and it met at a Y pipe. I know that my 2" duals would breath better but will it look dumb? Would I see a significant increase in performance going to 2.5" exhaust?

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Old 12-28-2001, 08:07 AM
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I would stay with 2inch since you already have it,with stock manifolds you would see very little or no gain in performance compaired to 21/2 in pipe. Just go with a set of flowmasters or a simular free flowing set of mufflers.
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Old 12-29-2001, 05:12 AM
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I think Larry is right on this. If you decide to go with a set of headers, I would go with at least 2.5" maybe even 3".
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Old 12-29-2001, 06:45 AM
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Stock small block chevrolets like to have a certain amount of backpressure as well as flow. It's a balancing act, too much flow and the throttle responce suffers as well as the low end horsepower. I've come to believe in headers with a good dual exhaust system. I prefer to run 2.5" collector pipes to the mufflers and then step down to 2.25" tail pipes. This gives the exhaust sound real depth. Keep in mind, I am refering to stock or mild small block motors 327 or larger. I tried this combination on a warmed-up 283 and it was a little too much, it reeved O.K., but it was very poor off the line(even with a stall converter and 3.73 gears it would barely sweek the tires). In a lighter vehicle it might have been fine, but this was a 68 C-10. I must say that I think 2.25 pipes with good dual chamber mufflers is the probably best set-up, but those big pipes sure sound good. I haven't experimented much with exhaust manifolds, but I do know that if you have a good running small block with manifolds, try doing a zero power brake standing still burn-out. Probably won't happen, but if you put headers on the same vehicle with an exhuast like I've described(with 2.25" pipes) this car will give spin to the tires if not boil them. Un-cap the headers and it will run like the timing has been severly retarded, you'd be able to push it off the line better than it would do itself. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-30-2001, 08:04 PM
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All I know for sure is headers are out of the question. They have too many maintenance issues for my taste. My car is going to be driven and I do not want all those header problems I hear about. I may not actualy use the 2" pipe anyway. A friend of mine got the stuff for me but I used most of it on my wifes Cavalier and my S10. I have some left but not enough to do my Chevy. I asked him if I could work something out to get some more. I do not think he wishes to part with any of his. That means I will have to buy whatever I use.
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Old 12-30-2001, 08:13 PM
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you dont have to be scared with the header problems any more used to you constantly had to tighten header and collector bolts or keep replacing the blown gaskets but i have used both header and collector gaskets made from dead soft aluminum on the collector and sheeted aluminum gaskets on the header to manifold with great succes no leaks no noise no problems i recomend them to every one and the great thing about these gaskets is they are reusable well just thought i would share my thoughts
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Old 12-31-2001, 02:37 PM
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Maintenance issues? Driving any old car(even one professionally built)is pretty much a rolling maintenance issue to a certain degree. Installed correctly, headers are normally the least trouble. You sound like my Dad(not that there's anything wrong with that, my Dad is a fine old fella).
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Old 01-03-2002, 12:38 PM
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CHEVYMAN THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS DON'T DO WHAT I DID AND BUY A CHEAP SET OF HEADERS, YOUR GOING TO HAVE TROUBLE LIKE I ALMOST DID. WHEN I GOT THESE CHEAP HEADERS $149.00 OR LESS I INSTALLED THEM BUT FIRST THING I DID NOTICE WAS THE FLANGE THE HEADERS ARE WELDED TO THAT GOES AGAINT YOUR HEADS IT WAS ONLY ABOUT 3/16 THICK, THATS WAY TO THIN. WHEN I INSTALLED THEM BOTH PLUG WIRS RESTED RIGHT ON THE FRONT SPARK PLUG WIRE AND THERE IS NO WAY TO CURE THIS. I SENT THEM BACK AND THEY WERE NICE ABOUT IT AND REFUNDED MY MONEY. I THEN BOUGHT A SET OF SANDERSON HEADERS BECAUSE I HAVE A SET ON MY T BUCKET AND THE WORK WELL AND DON'T LEAK. WHEN I GOT THEM THE FLANGE AGAINST THE HEADS ARE OVER 3/8 " THICK VERY STRONG. BUT ONE THING THE INSTRUCTIONS SAY TO DO, AND YOU KNOW WHAT A STICKLER I AM ON FOLLOWING DIRECTION, IS NOT TO USE GASKETS, BUT INSTEAD USE A PERMATEX 598 SOMETHING ONLY TO SEAL THEM. I'M NOT SURE I EVER HAVE HEAD OF THIS HAS ANYONE HERE EVER HEARD OF NOT USEING GASKETS ON HEADERS??????
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Old 01-03-2002, 03:59 PM
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Check out 5.0 mustangs,the headers bolt on without gaskets. I used a set on my 86f150 without gaskets and have had no problem in 3yrs.
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Old 01-04-2002, 05:00 AM
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Well loose bolts was only one of my concerns. Some of my other concerns included additional engine bay heat and more noise from the engine bay. Besides I have already got my manifolds and do not wish to drop several hundred on headers. For streat use I think I will be just fine. I think once it is all said and done I am going to use 2.5" pipe. With the manifolds it should provide enough pressure and give me a nice mellow tone. Thanks for all of your input.
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Old 01-04-2002, 09:46 PM
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Chevman I know what you are going to be driving. You are going to need all the torque you can get. You really don't need a set of pipes bigger then 2 inchs at the very biggest two and a quarter. With stock manafolds 2 inch will sound better and make more torque. You can always put bigger ends on to make it look better. ROY
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Old 01-07-2002, 09:45 AM
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Thanks Roy
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Old 01-08-2002, 12:33 PM
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Mike, I agree with Roy, use the 2 inch. David Shands..........................Retired Master Mechanic
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Old 01-09-2002, 04:02 AM
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It seems all of the experts agree that I should use 2" I also checked the Hot Rod Guide to practical engine swaping and it said the same thing. So it looks like I have that figured out.
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