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Originally Posted by 79monster
so if i have a stock 400 crank @ 3.75 stroke in a 350 then i should be ext. balanced and if i buy a kit i should get it int. balanced? is there advantages to either?
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To start with a 400 crank has to have its mains tuned down to the 350 size main.
Personally I prefer an internally balanced engine. But a 400 crank is designed for external balance and it is quite expensive to convert it back to internal balance, so unless I was taking it racing, I wouldn't go thru the expense to convert it to internal balance.
If you're buying a 383 kit, many manufacturer's offer a choice between internal or external balance, for these I choose internal as much as possible. But here's a place where you want to be careful, if you get a cast iron internally balanced shaft the counterweights are larger and can make fitment past the pan rail and the bottoms of the cylinder bores a bigger problem as more clearance is required. For a cast steel, forging, or billet crank the material is denser than cast iron, this allows for a smaller counterweight so clearancing the block is less of an issue.
Internal balance has two advantages, the first is you use a neutral balanced damper and flywheel/flexplate, this makes field replacement of these items simple since they aren't contributing to the crank balance and replacement won't upset overall engine balance. The second advantage is by taking the counterbalance at each rod journal, bending moments are taken from the adjacent mains which in turn takes the resolution of the local loads off those mains. This reduces the likelihood of a failure of the crank or the main bearings since it's one more force they don't have to resolve into the block. In this regard you can see how much the crank of externally balanced moves when you take it a part and look at the wear patterns on the mains.
Bogie