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Old 07-24-2010, 07:09 AM
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extreme energy flat tappet cams

anyone having trouble with these cams scrubbing out? i just put an 11-250-3 cam in a 496--- did everything right (or so i think)

lubed the hell out of the cam, used zinc additive, 10-30 oil, instantly hit 2200 rpm for twenty minutes, and changed the oil. same process i always use.

took it for a drive, it ran and sounded great. but then after about twenty minutes i could hear a slight tick. pulled the valve covers, all rockers were tight except #8 exhaust lobe. i set it, get someone to crank it over and the rocker is barely moving :darnitalltoheck: one lobe is gone.

i've heard people are havong trouble breaking these in. is it just comp or all flat tappets these days? i'm starting to think roller cams for all from now on.

i hope the engine is fine--- it still has full oil pressure and only one lobe went.

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Old 07-24-2010, 07:46 AM
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I am seeing more and more of this. Sorry but one lobe gone means the trash went into the bearings. Last one I saw (two weeks ago) Was built by a local shop. only run twenty minutes and bearings were all contaminated including the cam bearings..

What kind iof seat pressure on valve springs? Check for coil bind or valve seal interference?
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Old 07-24-2010, 08:19 AM
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need to break in with a softer set of springs or just use a single spring if you have doubles.

BC Engineering has a nice over cam oiling system that worked well for me.

Check the lift to bore clearance. My bbc also ate flat tappets until I finally noticed some very tight lifter bores (0.0005" clearance). I actually sanded the lifters down on a lathe to get 0.0015" clearance and all is good.

Maybe a lifter re-bore would be a good idea ($500), or use a factory roller block and forget the flat tappets.

yes, the engine should be trashed. I recommend you take it apart and clean it out and add new bearings.

I don't like xtreme or vodoo cams. Too aggress for a flat tappet. Use a high energy or magnum series compcam.

look at this cam, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL11-213-3/

sorry to hear about your flat cam. I feel your pain.
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Old 07-24-2010, 09:18 AM
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i checked my coil bind and seal interference-- all was good.

not sure on the seat pressure-- it's double springs but nothing crazy.

that magnum cam looks decent. you having better luck with the magnam series? i'll either do that or go with a retro fit extreme energy hyd roller. cam number 11-444-8.

i guess i should probably put new bearings in or at least check them
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Old 07-24-2010, 01:43 PM
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if you have double springs then break in the cam with only the outer springs.

The magnum series are about as aggressive as I would use. The less aggressive the lobe lift then the less likely it will go flat. However, still not a guarantee, especially with BBC's. get a case of oil additive at zddplus.com. also check out BC Engineering over cam oiling system.

Again, check the lifter to lifter bore clearance. This is important and plagued my 454 for a few years. a roller lifter needs more clearance than a flat tappet. (0.0015 to 0.0020" for a roller lifter)

I would avoid retrofit roller cams and start with a factory roller block. The retro-roller hydro lifters are very heavy and don't well at higher rpms. a roller setup will cost 600 or 700 when you add up all the stuff required. cam, lifters, push rods, cam bottom, roller bearing front timing chain, stiffer timing chain cover to maintain end play, distributor gear, stronger springs. you would be better off with a roller block.
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Old 07-24-2010, 02:52 PM
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All of the above and maybe consider two other possible things to help.

You are probably looking at new bearings as the cam metal will embed into the soft bearing materials. While it's down, have your machine shop, or do it yourself, groove the lifter bores to provide a steady stream of oil to the lobes. (There is a tool that will do this.) It has worked very well on the two BBC I've seem it done on.

Also, use a lifter that has a small hole in the bottom for lobe oiling. I know of at least one BBC that uses these type lifters with great success.
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Old 07-24-2010, 06:38 PM
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yeah a factory roller block would be ideal but they're not the easiest to come by around here. i've retro fit SBC's before with great success--- yeah there's some setup time but it works.

thanks for all the help. i may even just go with the magnum cam.
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Old 07-24-2010, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overdriv
Also, use a lifter that has a small hole in the bottom for lobe oiling. I know of at least one BBC that uses these type lifters with great success.
If you are using a solid flat tappet, that is.
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Old 07-24-2010, 08:23 PM
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man knocking a lobe of a camshaft, that mite be to much presser in the valve springs, on a hyd flattappet over 315 open presser results in knocking the lobes off the camshaft, i use the mag serise with comp in my sbc, never had a prb with it, fire up directly to 2000-2200rpm's and havent yet to check the valve lash after the first start up...
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Old 07-25-2010, 09:52 AM
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i am going to be using the next size smaller extreme energy in my 496 build
and the more i read about guys wiping out these cams im getting scarred.
ive had the lifter bores grooved and planned on doing all the other precautions
i just wonder how many of these cams are out there with no problems
you always hear about the bad, wheres the good if any?
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Old 07-25-2010, 11:44 AM
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Comp Cams failures have been posted on several forums,check it out on Google.Sometimes big companies establish a reputation then cut costs to make more profits,hopefully this is not what Comp is up to,but they are not the only game in town Crower and Isky and Engle and Howard(now sold thru Summit) are still around and still make a quality product made in the USA.
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Old 07-25-2010, 11:57 AM
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i hear guys @ the track useing compcams and one guy said he had a bad lifter out of the box, that was a 351 winsor with the 305h camshaft, but there are bad ones in all brands, like anything eles, but also make sure that all the valvetrain matches, espcially the valvesprings, the pressers and all that goods stuff.....
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Old 07-25-2010, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smashem
anyone having trouble with these cams scrubbing out? i just put an 11-250-3 cam in a 496--- did everything right (or so i think)

lubed the hell out of the cam, used zinc additive, 10-30 oil, instantly hit 2200 rpm for twenty minutes, and changed the oil. same process i always use.

took it for a drive, it ran and sounded great. but then after about twenty minutes i could hear a slight tick. pulled the valve covers, all rockers were tight except #8 exhaust lobe. i set it, get someone to crank it over and the rocker is barely moving :darnitalltoheck: one lobe is gone.

i've heard people are havong trouble breaking these in. is it just comp or all flat tappets these days? i'm starting to think roller cams for all from now on.

i hope the engine is fine--- it still has full oil pressure and only one lobe went.

OH where do I begin.? Everyone will tell you the lack of zinc in oil is the problem with flats,and their right. HOWEVER What does comp do in the middle of this problem? They cant resist a money maker so they intro a cam with very aggresive ramps. Do they scrub you asked? Oh and baby do they ever. Get that engine outta there and apart like jack rabbit fast and maybe unlike me you can save your crank. OH ya and as for what comp will do for you all the way to the bank
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Old 07-25-2010, 12:36 PM
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I broke in my 12-250-3 (xe284) with no probems. Runs great. I used Rotella SAE 30 straight for the break in + a half bottle of lucas break in lube. Then flushed oil and filled again with rotella 30 and the rest of the bottle.

edit: oh also have groved lifter bores. Used the comp tool.

Last edited by kyle86; 07-25-2010 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 07-25-2010, 01:45 PM
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im useing valvoline 10-40 with my comp mag 280h, for break in w/o break in additive, and change back to valvoline 10-40 after break in....no prbs here...
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