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Old 06-02-2008, 05:11 PM
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F-BIRD'88 F-BIRD'88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double_v23
I have scanned through this thread, and I may have missed some things but here is what I would suggest.

Ditch the lift rule cam...it will kill a street car and you will end up spending more on drivetrain to compensate for the duration. (gears, converter etc)

Check out beehive (conical) valvesprings from crane, these will allow you to run alot of lift at the same installed height as the stock vortec springs. WITHOUT MACHINING.

If you are going to rebuild the bottom end, get a better piston than those 345's something with a flat top and two valve reliefs. There are some really reasonable forged pieces out there that are well worth the extra coin. You just need to know what you are looking for specifically because these are not always advertised widely in the popular shopping spots.

Get rid of the steel shim idea...GM makes a gasket (10105117) that is a composite and is only .021 compressed thickness. (they advertise it as .028 but I have checked them myself) This will eliminate the common problems with steel shim head gaskets and only give up .006 quench.

Like CNC said, you will not be happy with your "budget" motor unless you put a little extra cash into the places that count. And if it takes a few hundred bucks extra to be able to run whatever cam or compression ratio you want then you should go for it, otherwise you will probably be doing it later.

1. This is a dyno and on the street real deal proven combination.
It makes the power I say it does. (410 hp with a lowly performer manifold)
it will make 10 to 15 more with a performer RPM hi rise.
It makes in excess of 400Ft lbs with a near flat usable torque curve with just 9.5:1 compression.

It kicks *** on the street. This motor is all about torque. We installed two version of this motor in two different cars and the on street performance was very impressive.
The idle sound is very cool.
If you assemble it exactly the way i outlined, you will get the results I say you will.
No machining is required other than shaving the heads to 58cc in your case.

You do not need to spend a fortune to do it as discribed. it works and is dependable.

2. I've never had a steel shim head gasket fail on me yet. Even at 12.65:1 compression.

3. Both the customers that these motors were built for are still very happy. Both motors were built with lowly cast pistons and are still in service today. 1 even has a 125hp nitrous kit on it. They have nothing more than what is in your GM crate motor short block right now. If you can break it, you're a better man than I.

Don;t need any $$$$beehive springs, forged this, roller this roller that, decking, bore C/L correcting, $$$$ etc etc.
Just put it together and go. Change the oil and filter 3 or 4 times a year and other wise leave the hood closed and enjoy.

You will want a high stall torque converter and some gear and will want to recurve the distributor. nothing more than you would do for any other 350ci build of this power output.
Keep it simple.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 06-02-2008 at 05:22 PM.
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