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Old 06-01-2005, 08:55 PM
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Fade paint job Question

I was not even thinking about painting back when these were popular and seeing some P/U's lately with these type paint job's. I was wondering what technique you use to get that effect correct?
The nice one's have a very good blend/fade between colors.
The transition area is alot wider than the average spray fan so I didn't know if a different type gun or tip set was used to pull this off.

I already know how to do a bad one from some earlier paint goof's

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Old 06-01-2005, 09:07 PM
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Rattle can the different layers you want, then sand down lightly to get a color transition and different color layers showing. Then mask off "Cooters Garage" on the side or "Rucky Top Moonshine" and spray it with a color of your liking




Mike
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Old 06-01-2005, 10:12 PM
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Guess you don't know either.
I come from the land of "Cooter's" & 'Shine. I KNOW how THEY do it.
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Old 06-02-2005, 05:05 AM
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when doing a fade i will usually use basecoat at regular strength just about up th where you want the fade to begin. at that point you need to reduce the color big time. you can add 50/50 base to biner or intercoat then also way over reduce it. it will take sometime to get the fade done but should be seamless. you want the color thin enough so when you spray one coat you dont see any blotchyness in the color. offshore race boats are big on graphics and color fades these days and some of the fades might be a red or yellow on a white background and fade out over a 10 - 15 foot area. quite tricky to make look real smooth. i recently did one in yellow and to look right i had to reduce the color until it was almost completely transparent. with it thinned out that much it does take awhile to to actually do it but you wont get that spray gun look at the fade. i attached a couple pics, not my work but good examples.
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Old 06-02-2005, 06:50 AM
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Okay, now I'm confused....not hard to do. I'm assuming that it's customary to have the lighter color laid down as a base and then you use the darker color over that, thinning as you go, to achieve the fade. Is that right? So, in the last photo, where it goes from red to orange to yellow, is the orange just the result of the thinned red being applied over the yellow or is it a separate paint?
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Old 06-02-2005, 07:39 AM
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The color change of the two is a benifit of this process as long as the colors are of the same "family".
As to which to shoot first,It would be a simple matter of the layout IMO.
I alway's go from dark to light. It's easier for me to blend in the lighter color than the darker.
I was curious if using a slow reducer and more fluid and backing away for a larger "mist" type pattern would work?
The specific type job I'm refering to are mostly P/U's done in the late80's-early 90's with the silver to color fade.
Yeah, I know it's dead and gone with popularity but it IS a cool paint process and I'd like to hear from some people who did these job's how they shot them.

Thanks Jim.
I bet all that reduction process is a major PITA with lot's of test shot's made.
Just wish I had the coin to afford one of those boats.
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Old 06-02-2005, 10:55 AM
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yeah, i worked on big expensive boats for most of my life and i still couldn't afford to put the gas in one, go figure. as for my post above, i'm not sure if thats the info you needed or not but i figured i'd post it anyway.
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Old 06-02-2005, 11:48 AM
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Jim, Your advice is ALWAYS welcome.

BTW, What silver do you use for your airbrush work?
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Old 06-02-2005, 02:12 PM
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The proceedure depends on how large of a fade area you are doing, I've done them from front to back on the vehicle which makes for a very large transition area- when doing these I'll take some of both colors and mix together and load a third gun. Spray one color on one end, the mixed color in the center, then the other color on the other end, then come back from the front and rear into the middle with light amounts of material untill the transition is unoticeable.

The graphics works like on conversion vans and trucks is easy, apply a silver base and then use transparent colors to make different fades. Overreducing the paint does allow you to put it on in smaller amounts for more control. One of the toughest fades I've done was with white and silver-took some goofing around to get it right, definately had to do the 50/50 mix with a third gun on that one.
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Old 06-02-2005, 03:19 PM
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BTW, What silver do you use for your airbrush work?[/QUOTE]

well, i usually try to airbrush on top of silver whenever possible. if i need to actually airbrush anything with nice detail i will use a fine grain silver like platinum pearl or even the fine orion silver.

bob, i know what you mean with the white and silver. i know when airbrushing if you are putting white ontop of a sliver base say for a highlight it will look like its hovering over the silver rather than sitting on it. you need to mix a small amount of the silver into the white to make them sort of come together. in the art world there is a technical name for that but i cant remember what it is. i guess this really applies to any solid color going over a heavy metallic. a couple moths ago i did a graphics job which was a dark silver with tips that faded to solid white. did the solid tip then came back with a mix and did the fade area so it would look right.
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Old 06-03-2005, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee4Me
Guess you don't know either.
I come from the land of "Cooter's" & 'Shine. I KNOW how THEY do it.
Sorry 'bout that, I truly didnt mean what you meant. I thought you were talking about the "fade" job seen on a lot of early shop trucks to make it look weathered



For example



Mike
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Old 06-03-2005, 09:31 PM
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I see you point now.Sorry if I was a little rude,it's just that some postings lately by young kid's have been on the "punk" side trying to be cute or whatever and I personally don't have time for it. I'm a mod on another site and it ridiculous the trouble some people cause. That's why I like this site so much,Mature people giving mature,professional advice while having some fun too.
Hard to believe someone goes to all the trouble to make something look that bad. Guess I had to drive "ratty" looking vehicles so long before being able to afford a nice one that I really can't see the logic in it.
I don't think I could bring myself to paint something that looked that bad.
Had an old IH pick up with Sanford & Son painted on it we used to drive in the wood's fishing. I don't think anyone could pull that "worn" look off.
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Old 06-04-2005, 04:52 AM
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Thanks Bee. One more question....if I wanted to achieve a similar look with latex or acrylic paints I'd work both colors wet so that they would blend better. Can you do it that way with auto paints or would you allow the base color time to flash before starting the fade color? Is it possible to apply a fade over paint that's been applied for a while?
Opps! That's two questions....
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Old 06-04-2005, 07:49 AM
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Yes you can blend one color out so it fades away over an exhisting color but it does take some good gun control. When you're working with automotive paints (basecoat) it isn't necessary for both colors to go on and stay wet for a melt together affect. Basically you just need to put the materials on in the amount needed to achieve the affect you want. Good questions though- I can see how one would assume the blending of the colors as being a fusion type deal with both colors needing to be wet. Another aid when doing this stuff is an intercoat clear which can be mixed with basecoat to add transparency. Grab and old fender and practice, get yourself some old paint from your paint supplier
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Old 06-04-2005, 06:36 PM
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Something I do is to take a box fan on Low and use the air flow to help with the fade. It keeps the color's more directional and the oversparay,which is your best friend,going in the right direction.Not a heavy wind,just a light breeze to move the paint.
It's alot more than just laying a color and then blending into it with the next.
It's really a blending of the 2 colors and just keeping at it till it look's the way you like.
I used spray paint at first to get the hang of it.It's cheap and you get the experience without spending money on real paint till you get it figured out.
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