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09-02-2009, 05:04 PM
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fan shroud flex fan and water wetter for valiant
well i have been driving my aunts 73 valiant around town for a week now breaking in the engine (full rebuild) fine tuning it all that. i took it on the freeway for the first time the other day and the temps got up to right around 220 or so.
it has a firm 4 blade fan and no shroud. i can not find a shroud and summit rockauto yearone or any local stores. since i can not find one ill either settle for the cheapo chrome ones that cover the top of the fan or make another one fit somehow. i have personally seen watter wetter work dropped 12* in my car. but i was wondering if a flew fan would help with the temps? i know it helps the life of the water pump but what about the temps? any ideas about the shroud? make one fit from another car or??? maybe advance the timing a bit to drop the temps??? 73 valiant A-body 225 one bbl 252cam timing is at 5* BTDC 
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09-02-2009, 05:14 PM
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The chrome cover wont really help, its more of a dressed up safety item, if it doesnt surround the fan, it wont draw any more air.
Is the radiator up to the job, clean, no plug rows? Is the cap holding its rated pressure? Since its only on the highway that it heats up, Id look more at timing and jetting, since youre getting maximum air flow at the higher speed.. Does it cool down right away when you get off the highway? That would definitely be more indicative of a lean fuel mixture or retarded timing. By the way, 220* is not overheating, most newer cars operate close to that temp, but getting it to run cooler wouldnt be a bad thing in your case.
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09-02-2009, 10:13 PM
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make a trip down to your local puller yard and find a shroud that might fit close and then go to trimmin. I'm sure with a little imagination you can find one. I would also look for a small lower airdam piece to direct some air up into your radiator.
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09-02-2009, 11:50 PM
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its a new radiator with a 180* thermostat. im not so sure its lean as it is a bit rich at idle and part throttle.
i will mess with timing and even the carb a bit. i did not drive enough after i got off the freeway to notice a drop in temps. i realize 220 is not a "bad" temp but its a bit high for my taste. i would at least like to see the temps drop 15* even 10* would be nice.
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09-03-2009, 12:32 AM
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Go to the boneyard and look at the trucks with 6's in them, particularly if you can find a heavy duty truck. They'll have the best system (large diameter, multi-blade steel fan and shroud to fit) that was designed at the factory to provide maximum cooling. If you can find one with a fan clutch, so much the better. You said the motor heated up on the freeway, so what I'm suggesting wouldn't necessarily help on the freeway, but it will sure work around town better than what you have now. I wouldn't install a flex fan on anything. They're next to worthless in my opinion.
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09-03-2009, 12:52 AM
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We had a 67 dart with the same slant 6 and it didn`t come with a shroud either. If it gets hot on the interstate but not in city driving check the thermostat, it could be opening and not closing. My cutlass would do the same thing and I finally got around to checking the T stat it would open when it should but it wouldn`t close until the water temp was back down to 120 or so.
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09-04-2009, 10:37 AM
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well ill first mess with the timing, carb settings and get some water wetter. if it the temps still climb ill check the thermostat
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09-04-2009, 04:21 PM
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ok so i messed with the timing and i must say this engine hates being advanced! i had it at 5* turned it to 8* then tried 10* and the thing was popping and back firing through the carb. so i put it back down to 5* ran good. then i tried tuning it by ear and it sounds best at 3* so i left it at 3*
i was driving around all day today and it performs pretty good. all in town driving it stays at about 140* so would that mean the thermostat is stuck open or opens to early???
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09-04-2009, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
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09-05-2009, 11:35 AM
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If it wouldn`t allow much timing then I`d say the markings on the balancer are off. It`s likely the balancer has slipped.
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09-05-2009, 11:48 AM
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the balancer cant slip it has a key way on it. and it will take the advance but if i rev it up to say around 3000 it pops through the carb. the book says it should be timed at 0* TDC (with factory parts). i put in a 252H from comp cams. and they said to try advancing 2* at a time. 3* runs the best but its hurting the temps.
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09-05-2009, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Besides the cam, what other parts did you add or change? (pistons, exhaust, head work) What do your spark plugs look like? Should have a light tan coating on the porcelin insulator. White is too lean, darker than tan is too rich, metal flakes stuck to the porcelin mean detonation Did you replace the valve springs?
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09-05-2009, 04:00 PM
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'67-'75, 3-spoke, driver's side timing, forged....
http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchant...egory_Code=CHR '69-up, 3-spoke, 2 belt... http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchant...egory_Code=CHR
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09-05-2009, 04:43 PM
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'67-'75, 3-spoke, driver's side timing, forged....
http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchan...tegory_Code=CHR that is the one i have. ill pull the plugs tonight and check them out.
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09-05-2009, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
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