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Old 10-01-2006, 12:09 PM
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Fatman Stage 4- The Sequel

The mechanic I used to weld in the stub and mock up the suspension forgot to use anti-seize on the lower control arm bolt. So it happened, the nut seized no big deal right? Wrong. We applied so much leverage/torque to the nut that it twisted off the end of the grade 5 stainless bolt. Caramba!! But then I discovered that the bolt was also seized inside the control arm. So using a humongous punch and a 20 pound sledge we literally pounded the bolt out moving it at best 1/8th of an inch with each whack. Upon examination, the bolt was scarred its entire length from contact with the inside of the housing. I understand why the nut seized but why the bolt? What if I had run the car with the bolt seized like that? Jeez. I re-read the instructions and nowhere does it say to apply anti-seize to the entire length of the bolt or if it did, I missed it again. So what happened? I'm really uncomfortable with the whole experience as the consequences of not using anti-seize on a bolt could have sent my clueless butt skipping down the freeway and I really hate when that happens.

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Old 10-01-2006, 07:35 PM
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Check the Knowledge Base for MII IFS. I think Trees had a bad experience with a seized bolt.
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Old 10-01-2006, 09:07 PM
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Always use anti-zeize with stainless. the lower control arm bolt fit is very tight in the crossmember, it galled against the steel when you installed it. there was no danger, only a pain for disassembley, the bolt is not to rotate in the cross member, it would have been fine frozen there untill you wanted to take it apart. I have a Fatman stub on my LaSalle, I did not use the stainless bolts in the kit after I did the exact same thing you did. I tossed them out, lubed up some quality grade 8 bolts so I know I can take it all apart someday iif needed.
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Old 10-02-2006, 12:10 AM
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Fatman Sequel

I understand and appreciate what you say. From now on, whether the manufacturer suggests it or not, I'll use anti-seize on all stainless. And thanks for explaininng that the bolt does not turn in the control assembly. I was very worried that bad things might happen if the facts were otherwise. Too bad that Fatman et al don't bother to mention that the stainless bolt REQUIRES the use of anti-seize to keep it from galling. I'm very surprised that it galled by simply inserting the bolt into the assembly without torqueing it down. I'm going to toss the stainless and go with the grade 8 also. Thanks again.
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Old 10-03-2006, 08:40 PM
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to be more exact, that bolt most likely was used to mockup the spacer that comes in the kit to be welded on. the welding process can pull the spacer hard into the bolt and it galled as soon as you turned it, or it was affected by the heatfrom welding. either way when welding these kits with stainless fastners, use a regular bolt for fitment, then install your stainless with anti-seize. I still think it best to use a grade 8 quality bolt for this application.

good luck with your project.

Last edited by Sixguns; 10-03-2006 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 10-03-2006, 10:35 PM
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Fatman

That is exactly what I told the mechanic. Heat must have had something to do with the problem. Seems to me that better instructions would alleviate a lot of the griping, pissin' and moan'n. Anyway. Be safe and see you on the road.
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