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Old 03-01-2013, 07:15 PM
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Feather edge Lifting !

Hi All,
This seems to always happen to me when I do a spot repair on a Flex part.

I sand feather edge with 400 apply primer for flex parts . Add few coats of primer dry sand all looks great go to apply base color coat and the all the edges lift where the oem paint begins ! Making me crazy . I looked it up on web and found that when the edges of the base/clear get hit with the new base and reducer it reacts to the oem feather edge ?
I went back to auto body supply and they said try adhesion promoter . That wrinkles the along the feather egde right way?
Is there way around this? really don't want to have to strip down the entire bumper ..

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Old 03-01-2013, 07:20 PM
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What is happening is simply that the solvent from your paint is getting under the edge of the feather edge. Right were the paint is sanded down to nothing, right there at that edge the solvent is getting under it.

Why it is getting thru the primer, that means the primer is a 1K primer, it isn't "cured" it is simply dried, your solvent from the paint gets thru it.

1. A couple of solutions, one, sand the feather finer, you can't believe how this can make a difference, that edge isn't so abrupt and the solvent can't get under it.

2. Don't spray so wet, use a dry spray technique so the solvents flash off before they soak in.

3. Use a 2k primer so there is a barrier coat over that feather edge.

4. Be sure it's warm so that the solvent flashes off before it soaks in.

It may even take all these things to get it done.

Brian
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:28 PM
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I would try putting the paint on a little dryer and give it extra time to flash off between coats.
Dont pile the paint on heavy. Mist coats to stop it reacting with the edge.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:25 PM
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feather edge lift

Thanks for the help.

I am using "Transtar" 4613 2 in 1 primer .. So if I spray few dry coats sand dry coat and let it cure over night i should be good ?

i wil try a 2 parts primer also if needed ..

I think last year when i ran into the same problem I did spray very light primer coats let cure over night and then spray base color and it seemed ok ..
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:46 PM
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Just to get the terminology right, if it doesn't have a hardener in it it never "cures", it simply "dries". Just as if you spilled ketchup on the floor the "solvents" in it (mostly water) would evaporate out and leave what is left dried on the floor. And you can get a wet rag and re-wet it wiping it up off the floor. That is essentially what you have with a 1k primer. So leaving the ketchup on the floor longer doesn't change things much right?

Where the 2K primer (or paint or clear) "cures" with the molecules linking together forming a new material basically, that material is most often insoluble and you can rub a lacquer thinner soaked rag on it and it will never soften.

Brian
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:03 PM
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Feather edge lift

Ok,
That explains it well . Think the 2k is the way to go.. It always seems easy just to get the spray can all mixed up and ready to go but seems like it comes back to bite all the time ..
Thanks so much for the info . Makes me feel much better.
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:23 PM
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I never heard of an oem paint "always" lifting on bumpers or flexible parts. The difference between 1k and 2k is night and day. Go 2k and give everything an ample amount of flash time and don't hammer on your base, cause I suspect with even a 1k this doesn't "always" happen, so I'm imagining it's a culmination of technique AND primer.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by magnoman View Post
Ok,
That explains it well . Think the 2k is the way to go.. It always seems easy just to get the spray can all mixed up and ready to go but seems like it comes back to bite all the time ..
Thanks so much for the info . Makes me feel much better.
Spray can ???? Theres your problem....
When apreviously painted surface is properly prepped you can apply the primer to a featherd edge without any worry ...the problem is the old bumper was painted and NOT properly prepped so when you do your repair, its over something someone else didnt do right so if you dont want to strip it you have two options Use a waterborn primer of an epoxy primer(best choice) without any reducer and BAM no more trouble... Stop using those spray cans or you'll keep having trouble
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Old 03-02-2013, 02:14 PM
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Got some 2k primer today work like a charm no issues covers wonderful . Well worth the mixing ..
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Old 03-02-2013, 02:50 PM
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good stuff.
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:06 PM
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Right on.

Brian
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Spray can ???? Theres your problem....
When apreviously painted surface is properly prepped you can apply the primer to a featherd edge without any worry ...the problem is the old bumper was painted and NOT properly prepped so when you do your repair, its over something someone else didnt do right so if you dont want to strip it you have two options Use a waterborn primer of an epoxy primer(best choice) without any reducer and BAM no more trouble... Stop using those spray cans or you'll keep having trouble
Trouble that I have is with th' Goober I work for, won't allow me to mix up an ounce or two of good primer for a small spot on a bumper cover. Then He screams at me because of the edge lifting, And I've sprayed it so dry that it'll look like crap when finished.
He insists on me using cheap crap, and expects it to be show quality. Then get's all bent outta shape when it doesn't work.
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