[shoddy_f-body]

I'm on the fence about using the etch. I have a few areas that i sandblasted in PPG DPLF Epoxy. I was going to prime all the bare metal with it, but then i thought the etch may be better.I don't really want to experiment on this car. Its a 64 1/2 Mustang Convertible.Where in NJ are you? I lived there for 27 years. I long for a NJ summer! the heat here is unbearable!

[mrcleanr6]

i'm about 20 min west of atlantic city, in other words ****hole central!!! well epoxy is always going to be better than etch. only advantage is etch is less sensitive to improper prep and the flash rust like you said before. do whatever you can to get epoxy on it. if the flash rush is so bad that you cant do it then go with the etch. i would do it panel at a time if i had to.

[Bee4Me]

Jim knows his business so you can take what he's telling you to the bank.
I have used it over epoxy myself several times but was a little more drastic on the scuff as I used 80gt for a good grab. My epoxy job's usually set for anywhere from a couple months to almost 1 year on one car so I was a little out of the recoat window.

[mrcleanr6]

My epoxy job's usually set for anywhere from a couple months to almost 1 year on one car so I was a little out of the recoat window. [/QUOTE]

ha!! just a little. i think its pretty much fully cured by then.

[baddbob]

The FF2G dries really slow when applied over etch primer, after trying this on one project I'll never do it again. Epoxy is the best way to go.

[Bee4Me]

Yeah, It's TOUGH after it's cured up. Another reason I use sandpaper as I haven't tried the scotch pad for scuffing after this long.
Do you think it would be OK instead of 80-180 paper?