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Old 06-01-2008, 05:54 PM
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Fel-Pro 1255 Intake Gaskets

Has anyone used the Fel-Pro 1255 gaskets? What is the best way to seal these? It shows using a quick dry adhesive, but how much do you use and where are the best places to use it? Thanks for any help you can be!
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Old 06-01-2008, 06:32 PM
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you can use an adheasive sealant like permatex blue. just a lite smear around the water ports and intake ports (mainly to hold in place while the manifold is brought into place . no sealer necessay on the manifold side (side of gasket with the raised seal)
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Old 06-01-2008, 06:45 PM
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These gaskets are flat. They don't have a raised seal that I see. Also, the intake has extra water holes in the back on each side of the distributor. I heard you can hook these together to help with cooling. Is that true or should I just plug them?
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Old 06-01-2008, 07:07 PM
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It there is not a raised portion around the port openings I would use sealer on both sides around the ports on both sides. if you manifold has threaded openings at the rear, (usually 3/8npt, these can be connected by fittings/hose to the corresponding openings (usually 1/2npt, at the front of the manifold) . This will improve cooling/circulation. It won't do much good just to connect them together.
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Old 06-01-2008, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stfinney
These gaskets are flat. They don't have a raised seal that I see. Also, the intake has extra water holes in the back on each side of the distributor. I heard you can hook these together to help with cooling. Is that true or should I just plug them?
do not connect them at the back, In attach files below is a couple pics of how i do it.



sam-missle
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Old 06-01-2008, 07:36 PM
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Ah ok, the front connects to the back to help with cooling. That makes sense actually. There is a port in top also in one of the runners. Is that for an oxygen sensor or something else? This new intake has alot more holes than I am used to.
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Old 06-01-2008, 09:13 PM
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Don't need to muck up the intake gasket with a lot of sealer to get a seal.
A little around the water ports is fine. None is required or recommended around the intake ports at all. No need to get carried away with sealer.
If you want to stop the gasket from sticking to the heads or manifold spray it with some Cooking "PAM" or wipe a little white grease on it and install.

You will need to retighten the intake manifold bolts after a few heat up cool down cycles, just like with new headers. Excessive bolt torque is not required.

I found if you connect the drivers side rear water port to the bypass port on the water pump it helps the cooling system a lot. Much more stable and consistent.

The water ports on each side of the carb flange are for hot water to aid cold weather engine warm up. The hot water helps heat up the manifold plenum under the carb faster to get off the choke sooner in the winter.
Don't need this for the summer.

The spot on the top of the #8 intake manifold runner is a vacuum source for the transmission vacuum modulator and/or power brakes. Make sure the power brakes diaphram does not leak and the trans modulator and connecting line/hose does not leak or the #8 cylinder will run lean.
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:13 AM
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F'BIRD'88, your:
"I found if you connect the drivers side rear water port to the bypass port on the water pump it helps the cooling system a lot. Much more stable and consistent."
Sounds interesting. Is that the port that normally provides water flow to the heater? Some racing water pumps have an pressurized outlet on each water pump horn to get more cooler water to the rear of the heads, I think that's where it goes.
BBP
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:27 AM
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Yeah, that was my thought. Right now, the port on my water pump goes to my heater core. How much would it help cooling to use the back ports on the intake? If not a big deal, then I'll just plug them.
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Old 06-02-2008, 06:35 PM
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Isn't #7 running hotter than #8 a result of a design problem with stock water pumps not flowing as much through the horn into the drivers side of the block? I have read that it is better with a long pump vs. a short & completely addressed by the Stewart Stage 2 pumps.

BBP
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Old 06-02-2008, 09:01 PM
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F bird 88 this part of your last post is some what misinformed.

The water ports on each side of the carb flange are for hot water to aid cold weather engine warm up. The hot water helps heat up the manifold plenum under the carb faster to get off the choke sooner in the winter.
Don't need this for the summer.

Those are exhaust crossovers, they work with the heat riser in a stock manifold outlet, when cold the heatriser closes so the hot air not water crosses under the carb to help in cold weather driveability. Look the next time you have a set of heads apart into the exhaust port with a light and you will see what I am talking about.

Mike
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike H
F bird 88 this part of your last post is some what misinformed.

The water ports on each side of the carb flange are for hot water to aid cold weather engine warm up. The hot water helps heat up the manifold plenum under the carb faster to get off the choke sooner in the winter.
Don't need this for the summer.

Those are exhaust crossovers, they work with the heat riser in a stock manifold outlet, when cold the heatriser closes so the hot air not water crosses under the carb to help in cold weather driveability. Look the next time you have a set of heads apart into the exhaust port with a light and you will see what I am talking about.

Mike
Vortec heads do not have exhaust heat riser passages.
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUFFALOBILLPATRICK
F'BIRD'88, your:
"I found if you connect the drivers side rear water port to the bypass port on the water pump it helps the cooling system a lot. Much more stable and consistent."
Sounds interesting. Is that the port that normally provides water flow to the heater? Some racing water pumps have an pressurized outlet on each water pump horn to get more cooler water to the rear of the heads, I think that's where it goes.
BBP
Is that the port that normally provides water flow to the heater? Yes.

Instead of hooking the other heater hose to the port near the thermostat as on other manifolds, hook it up to the drivers rear water port.
It's pretty simple and may not be the ultimate racing configuration, but it makes a noticeable difference on a typical street/strip motor.

GM wants/wanted the stock motor's heads to run hot for emissions purposes so they actually purposely cripple the stock cooling system water circulation a bit to get the effect they are after in a stock application. That and more, like retarded stock timing, thin crappy smogger head castings etc etc are why the old smogger 350's had trouble with OEM head gaskets. Has a lot to do with why some are leery of thin shim head gaskets. Once some of this stuff is corrected all SBC head gaskets shim, composite or otherwise are much more dependable.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 06-02-2008 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 06-02-2008, 11:09 PM
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F'BIRD'88, your:

"Instead of hooking the other heater hose to the port near the thermostat as on other manifolds, hook it up to the drivers rear water port."

You already used the drivers side port, I think you mean the passenger side?

Sooo, coolant coming out of the rear of the passenger side head would would flow via a hose to the front of the intake manifold & through the thermostat & to the radiator?

This flow would be bypassing the trip forward through the passenger head? I have read about this being helpful, at Stewart pumps website for one, but I really don't understand it?

I bet with a couple of diverter valves you could run the heater in the winter & cool the rear of the motor in the summer?

BBP

Last edited by BUFFALOBILLPATRICK; 06-02-2008 at 11:20 PM.
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Old 06-02-2008, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUFFALOBILLPATRICK
F'BIRD'88, your:

"Instead of hooking the other heater hose to the port near the thermostat as on other manifolds, hook it up to the drivers rear water port."

You already used the drivers side port, I think you mean the passenger side?

BBP
No I only use the one side.
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