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Old 02-05-2006, 06:47 AM
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Mike
 
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Fender attachment ?

I replaced factory engine bay metal in my 67 Mustang and factory fender attachment lip to avoid metal pucker when bolts attach. I could use the factory type u nuts to attach fenders, but that will leave gap the thickness of the clips. Does anyone make a die to recess the clips or does anyone have a suggestion on what I can do to attach fenders, retain fender alignment capability and not have the gap I want to avoid? I could make small plates and weld flange nuts or something, but wondered if anyone has a more clever way to do this. THANKS!

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Old 02-05-2006, 11:01 AM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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I have to tell you, if you have replaced the rad support and fender aprons with repro, that fraction of an inch thickness of the J nut is not going to matter one bit. There is no way, no how you got those pieces welded in with that much precision. For that matter, there weren't two Mustangs next to one an other rolling off the line that were that close to the same.

Just start fitting your fenders and see what you have.

If you really want to put that indentation, simple, make a die.

Just get two pieces of 1/4" thick metal about 1/1.5 inch rectangle. Clamp them in a vice and drill a hole thru both in the same spot about one third of the way across the long way. Tap threads in one of them. Then drill the other hole to the appropriate size for the bolt to go thru. Next, on the one with the threads, make a copy of the piece out of 1/16" metal. But cut the center out of it living a 1/8" or so "wall" around the outter edge. Weld that to the piece with the threads.Then plug weld another 1/2" or so wide piece of this 1/16" thick piece (the same size as the original indentation on the original apron) on the piece with the hole in it.

Put the one with the "wall" on it, under the apron at the hole. Put the other on the top over the hole with the 1/16" square piece under it, and put a bolt thru the piece, the apron into the threaded hole on the lower one. Tighten up the bolt and the upper one will bend the metal where that 1/16" piece is INTO the lower piece with the "wall" supporting the surrounding metal.

Now that you are throughly confused, read it a few times and maybe I will make sense.

Brian
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Old 02-05-2006, 02:02 PM
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Thanks Brian

I know I can make the die, but was/am seeking other ideas. That's a bunch of work (making the die) for not alot of gain. FYI, it's not repro metal. It's all smooth, new sheet metal I fabbed, so the factory U nut (or is it "J" nut) indentation is gone. I have sheet metal to sheet metal now and don't want the gap that the U nut will leave, even if it's only a 32nd. Mike

Last edited by HHStang; 02-05-2006 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 02-05-2006, 08:43 PM
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I don't know if you need any help at all after pulling off something like fabing all that. But I have to say "That's a bunch of work (making the die) for not alot of gain." is the definition of "detail". I have spent hours and hours doing things that are hardly even noticable to the eye when pointed out to someone. Detail is what sets the "outstanding" cars apart from the "nice" cars. Making those dies would take about as long as it has been writing and reading this thread.


But I have to say, that is not how I would do it on your fabbed inner fenders. I would make a nut block about one inch by a three quarter inch with a tapped hole and plug weld it into place after cleaning it up real nice with a file and Roloc surface conditioning disc.

Brian
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Old 02-06-2006, 05:40 AM
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I think those jnuts are visable from inside the wheelhouse-below the fender, I'd make nut blocks like Brian suggested and bolt the fender on and align everything, then weld the blocks to the apron from the underside. Or weld a strip of steel strap under the complete edge of the apron and drill and tap the holes in this after they are marked.
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:23 AM
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Thanks guys!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR


But I have to say, that is not how I would do it on your fabbed inner fenders. I would make a nut block about one inch by a three quarter inch with a tapped hole and plug weld it into place after cleaning it up real nice with a file and Roloc surface conditioning disc.

Brian

You are right and I do need to slow down and get this right. Clarify please the nut block idea. Is this a piece of 1/4" steel or how thick is it? I'd guess that you make the welds once you are very sure the fenders/doors/hood are in the right position. I had hoped to leave some adjustability in this system as I'm not a bodyman and would feel better letting the painter set the final position, not me. I guess I could make the blocks, drill the holes for the welds and let the painter weld them in. The strapping/tapping steel idea also sounds good, but again, I seem to lose my adjustability. Thoughts please?
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Old 02-06-2006, 08:06 AM
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The fender has the hole large enough for adjustment doesn't it? As I remember the "J" nut (or U or what ever the heck they call it) doesn't move around that much, I think the adjustment is mostly in the fender.

No, come to think of it the holes are oblong and the nuts do move in and out quite a bit.

If there is some movement in the fender using the hole,(or enlarge the hole a little) you could align the fenders (trail fit EVERYTHING) make these nuts (yes 1/4" steel would be fine) and simply use them as a nut and bolt the fender on. After aligning, mark the inner fender around the nut with an awl. Remove the fender. Now, drill a 1/4" hole on each side of the fender bolt hole on the inner fender, bolt the nut up in there using the mark you made and plug weld the nut thru the holes you just drilled.

OR of course,you could make the die and put the indents and use the J nuts like original. OR, weld in a strip like Bob suggested.

I can not stress enough, TRAIL FIT EVERY SINGLE PART, DOORS, FENDERS, EXTENSIONS, VALANCE, HOOD, EVERYTHING!

Brian
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Old 02-06-2006, 05:34 PM
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Thanks!

I appreciate your help.
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Old 02-06-2006, 08:43 PM
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Let us know how it works out.

Brian
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