[projectis]

How do you guys install fender flares and mold it? Is it all rivet in and bondo?

[goose]

hey projectis, could you be more specific. i assume you mean fender flares that are molded into the body. are you talking glass or metal? aftermarket or home-made? a little more info could help. if you mean glass, i wouldn't use rivets as they can get lose in time and may start cracks down the road. if you mean metal, weld them in, and then fill. lame response i know but don't have a lot to go on.
Les

[projectis]

Its fiberglass. What do you reconmmend besides using rivets?

[astroracer]

Fiberglass flares to fiberglass body? Or... Fiberglass flares to a metal body? What kind of car is it? It makes all the difference in the world. One way or the other?

[projectis]

fiberglass to the metal body. Its going to be on a Mercedes.

[goose]

why? is this for looks only or for covering rust? i mean that's different. although i've never done flares i have lots of fun with fiberglass. i have tons of articles in my old Hot Rod and Car Craft mags dealing with flares and hood scoops. you have to grind down to the bare metal and be sure it's perfectly clean and degreased and slop some resin on and stick the roughed up(for adhesion) flares on. with pre-cut pieces of cloth, carefully blend and cover the joint as you spread more cloth out. you want to spread the load and stress over the largest area practical. then it's super tough sanding time with fibers getting everywhere. that's the reader's digest version anyway. i have read in other articles though that due to the different expansion rates of the glass and metal, stress cracks are likely down the road. your call i guess. unless you trust your skills i wouldn't try it. it can be very messy unless you take your time. the hard part is the sanding to get a perfect blend between the flare and body. hope this helps.
Les

[projectis]

the flares are for look. If I get the universal flares and slap it on with rivet and feeling all the holes and gaps with bondo, would it crack? Or do i have to fiberglass it? Here is a picture what I am trying to do http://www.autoexplosion.net/Imports.../Mvc-001x2.htm

http://www.autoexplosion.net/Imports/pages/DCP_0803.htm

Thanks guys!

[goose]

the method you suggest will work i guess. but i wouldn't trust it for anything i would want to keep for awhile. i think there are just too many areas for it to fail in time. ever had a buddy that tried the simple easy route? there are tons around here and i think they are asking themselves why they did it. i bought my mustang from a kid who wanted to "fix it up and make it look good". well i can count the rivets on the body and the bondo he trowelled on comes off in such big chunks i can use them as a board to mix filler on. it's actually quite funny and i tease him all the time about it. Projectis, can't you use those plastic flares that you just match paint and install with self-tapping screws. they instal in minutes. im sure there's plenty of catalogues out there with the ones you might want.
Les

[Hot Rod Hellion]

I'm a body guy, and I would never suggest bonding and blending a fiberglass anything onto a steel anything. It will crack.
I don't know what model benz your sportin, but I assume tire clearance is the idea? On most cars this will require cutting the factory lip out, as it will interfere with a wider tire. That lip provides a lot of stiffness to the panel, and without it, cracks are even more likely. Most factory quarters also have a wheel tub welded into that lip. If the lip is removed, prepare for a weak unibody and a trunk full of water!

HOWEVER....

The famouse DeTomaso Pantera was often fitted with the GT5 package... it consisted of (among other things) 'glass flares that were bolted, then bonded to a steel quarter, just as you describe... The piece is made with recessed bolt holes, so it can be filled over. Here's how they made it work...

1 The flare should be made for the car and fit very well. It should have a flange on the backside of at least in inch wide

2 Square head screws fit into the recesses, and are held from turning by the shape of the hole.

3 bond it with 3M windshield urethane. It is very strong, and most important, flexible. When steel and glass change temperature or vibrate, a rigid bond will not work

4 use nylock nuts on the backside, and do not fully tighten until after the urethan has cured.

5 Filler should be spread wide and shallow across the seam

6 Know a body guy in case it cracks the paint anyway.