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I thought the wire from the fuel sending unit should go to the gas gauge, not the fuse panel.
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In my experience bad grounding is the problem the majority of the time on these things. Not much to go wrong with them but it does happen occasionally. I would check the electrical circuit in depth, including taking the sender out of the tank and stroking it with temp wiring B4 buying a new one.
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I checked my '67 Chevy shop manual and the wire does go to the gauge. Right now you don't have anything connecting the gauge and the sender. Right?
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Maybe trucks are different, but in my '67 car the circuit goes from the fuse panel to the gauge. Then, from the gauge to the sending unit which is grounded.
Do you have a truck manual that has a wiring diagram you can reference? |
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unfortunatley i don't! how ever this is quite confusing. it seems that from the fuel unit....the wire goes back to the fues box and from the fuse box to the gauge! it has one of those flexible circuit trace panels that attatches to the back of the instrument panel. it also has one harnest with 9 wires that plugs into it. i geuss i really need to find a book that has this wiring huh? thanks for the help
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I'm making an assumption that Chevy used the same color codes for both cars and trucks in '67.
There should be a 20 ga tan-colored wire in that harness clip on the back of the instrument cluster. That tan wire should go back to the gas sending unit. In a car, there is an interim harness consisting of about 6 wires that runs from the dash, under the carpet and seats, and into the trunk. All of the wires in this interim harness are black, for some unknown reason. Anyway, in the trunk the tan wire from the sending unit should connect with the interim harness. As I understand it, you now have the gauge and the sending unit both plugged into the fuse panel, with no connection directly between them. I think the curcuit should go: Fuse panel to gauge Gauge to interim harness Interim harness to sending unit. And, as Willys said, watch that ground on the sending unit. I fiddled with my circuit for a couple of years before I finally swallowed my pride and redid the ground. Hope this helps. |
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Tan has been the standard for decades. Don't know why they would ever change it.
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Could be a problem in the tan wire itself. An open circuit (disconnecting it or a break inside the insulation) causes a full+ reading on the gauge. A short circuit (grounding it somewhere between the dash & the tank) causes an empty reading.
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