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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2013, 11:39 AM
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You don't have to wait. You can put down multiple layers at one time as long as you can get everything slathered with resin before it starts to kick. Large area's, like a floor or hood will be "time challenged" to get them wetted out before the resin starts to kick. If you put the layers down one at a time you can throw them over the fresh resin without sanding. They will bond together as long as the first "coat" is still tacky. Just figure out how much you need to mix and how long of a work window you have to get one layer done.
You would do well to do some test panels before the "big day".
I "have", a time or two, mixed the resin a bit cold just to get a longer work window out of it. You really have to be careful here as this can effect strength and adhesion.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2013, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Square View Post
Lot of good answers. Now, another question. When you put down one layer of mat, do you wait for that to dry before you put down 2nd, 3rd, etc layers?
Fiberglass resin cures, it doesn't dry. I've laid up 5 layers, but it will get quite hot. If you hold to 3 and allow 30 minutes or so minutes to cure, you should sand the surface for good adhesion before laying the next.

Also, fiberglass as it cures, will be pretty flexible. It will take a shape and hold it... it will also slump and lose it's shape. I've seen a complicated shape ruined because it was removed from its mold too soon.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2013, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astroracer View Post
You don't have to wait. You can put down multiple layers at one time as long as you can get everything slathered with resin before it starts to kick. Large area's, like a floor or hood will be "time challenged" to get them wetted out before the resin starts to kick. If you put the layers down one at a time you can throw them over the fresh resin without sanding. They will bond together as long as the first "coat" is still tacky. Just figure out how much you need to mix and how long of a work window you have to get one layer done.
You would do well to do some test panels before the "big day".
I "have", a time or two, mixed the resin a bit cold just to get a longer work window out of it. You really have to be careful here as this can effect strength and adhesion.
Man, now you are throwing some foreign words at me. slathered, kick, wetted out, a bit cold
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2013, 12:09 PM
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experience will tell, but you can do as many layers as you want at one time
it's just harder to get all the bubbles out
buy non-waxed resin and you can recoat without sanding

your original post said flat reinforced panels
flat fiberglass will not be strong by it's self unless you get mondo thick and heavy
you can use plywood or osb but again it will get heavy
ribs and curves will give you strength,
building the trans tunnel and rockers at the same time will add a lot of strength, as will a turn up at the firewall
you can add ribs by adding strips of wood into the floor pan where seats bolt in and glass over the wood

this is a tonneou cover i made for the mid section of my truk bed
the slight curve adds a lot of strength to the shape
the cross ribs are 2x4 cut to the shape of the curved top, longitudinal ribs are 5/8 osb 4'' wide,
the osb has no strength by it's self, but glassing it to the structure adds a lot of strength, also allows fastening points





i embedded steel plates in the glass to attach the hinges. this was smoothed over and glassed





you can also use foam board to make the ribs as the strength is in the depth of the fiberglass structure
like a roof truss made out of 2x4s, no real strength in a 2x4, it's all how they're nailed together

i did a lot of glassing in my 58 truk over on 67-72chevytrucks.com, look thru the build if you'd like for ideas
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Old 08-29-2013, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogre View Post
experience will tell, but you can do as many layers as you want at one time
it's just harder to get all the bubbles out
buy non-waxed resin and you can recoat without sanding

your original post said flat reinforced panels
flat fiberglass will not be strong by it's self unless you get mondo thick and heavy
you can use plywood or osb but again it will get heavy
ribs and curves will give you strength,
building the trans tunnel and rockers at the same time will add a lot of strength, as will a turn up at the firewall
you can add ribs by adding strips of wood into the floor pan where seats bolt in and glass over the wood

this is a tonneou cover i made for the mid section of my truk bed
the slight curve adds a lot of strength to the shape
the cross ribs are 2x4 cut to the shape of the curved top, longitudinal ribs are 5/8 osb 4'' wide,
the osb has no strength by it's self, but glassing it to the structure adds a lot of strength, also allows fastening points





i embedded steel plates in the glass to attach the hinges. this was smoothed over and glassed





you can also use foam board to make the ribs as the strength is in the depth of the fiberglass structure
like a roof truss made out of 2x4s, no real strength in a 2x4, it's all how they're nailed together

i did a lot of glassing in my 58 truk over on 67-72chevytrucks.com, look thru the build if you'd like for ideas
How many layers thick is this?
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2013, 12:58 PM
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the edges are 3/16'', it varies in the core.
i usually do convoluted forms and only have 3/4 oz mat on hand
6 layers of 3/4 mat is roughly 3/16''

my subwoofer enclosure is more like 1/4'' thick and curved, that was 8 to 10 layers





steering column cover, dash fascia, console, arm rest, door panels, kick panels, sub enclosure... all fiberglass

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2013, 01:01 PM
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be creative

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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2013, 04:17 AM
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Nice work!
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2013, 07:15 AM
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@33willys77...o you have any pictures of your floor build?
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:44 AM
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OK So, in the next week or so, I am going to try my hand at doing some small pieces. With the attached picture, you can see, I am going to replace the side windows ( where you see white poster paper), with solid panels. I have the glass that was in there so it should work as a good template. Then, when I feel comfortable with working with a small panel, like this, then I will work my way up to bigger pieces. I am planning on making a sedan delivery out of the car. You can see on the pictures, where I have the post marked with "hash" marks to show that I will be taking it out and then there will be one, large panel in its place. That brings up another question. What is the best way to adhere the fiberglass panel to the original body steel?

Also, attached, you will find a coupe of pictures of my rear body mounts I just made. I will be bolting them to the body, temporarily, and to the frame until I fabricate my middle and front body mounts. When all is squared up, the way I want it, I will weld all together.







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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2013, 05:55 PM
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The fiber Glass won't hold up long on the metal only glassed in... You would be better off making the panels then bonding them on with something like speed grip or something... Never seen glassing to metal holding up very long.. You would think it's on good when your done glassing,,, But can very easy be knocked loose... Why did you want to fill the side's in with glass panels instead of steel ??
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS View Post
The fiber Glass won't hold up long on the metal only glassed in... You would be better off making the panels then bonding them on with something like speed grip or something... Never seen glassing to metal holding up very long.. You would think it's on good when your done glassing,,, But can very easy be knocked loose... Why did you want to fill the side's in with glass panels instead of steel ??
Was just a thought to use fiberglass. So, are you saying I shouldn't use any fiberglass panels for the floor also?
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by V8Square View Post
Was just a thought to use fiberglass. So, are you saying I shouldn't use any fiberglass panels for the floor also?
If it a steel car I would use steel... I have a lot of threads doing floors in all my builds,, May give you some idea's.... Much easier then doing glass,, I guess I should say this different,, Glass work is very easy to do,,, Just doesn't tie into metal to good.. I would make them side panels out of steel and also the floor... That's just how I do things.. Either way good luck..
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:11 PM
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Use 1x2 tubing and some 1x1 tubing to frame up the floor,, Then use poster board to make all you floor template's then cut them out of steel,then weld them in..Here's one that might give you some idea's..

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Old 08-30-2013, 06:16 PM
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Here's one I just did..

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