Hi to everyone
There's always a right or a wrong way when working with materials or chemicals
specially manufactured and developed and tested in labs. First of all when you
want to construct a fibreglass product, you got to make a mould which will depend on your specific skill. Moulds can be made of a great variety of materials.
You will first of all have to decide if you require a reverse or positive mould.
If you go for a reverse mould, the hole order in which you will do your layers will
be in the opposite sequence. Let's say you go for a reverse option, first you must get the inside from where you are going to do your layers to a perfect
stage (it's the same as the preparation work before spraying your car ) the
smallest imperfections will be on your final.Now you must put some or other sealer into the mould, the product you use will depend on what you made your
mould out off. Secondly you must spray release agent into the whole area you
going to apply the fiberglass and let it dry. Now you can mix your jell coat, you can even colour the jell by adding the required pigment.Now by brush or by roller
(made for working fibreglass) apply a coat jell followed by surface matting, right
from this point you must make sure to get all bubbles out and work fast because
theres a chemical reaction taking place.Now you do the same followed by course
matting and then if the specific mould requires heavy duty matting (some cases
cutting strips to reingforce weak spots or where the stress points might be.)
Or mould ribs in to strengthen.Wash your tools with industrial assetone.Get the
right ressin for your need.theres indoor and out door materials available.

hi every body,

my question is: what type of paint can resist against the fiber glass heat??
I mean when the model is ready and you want create a new female mold,
which paint do you use...car 2 k paint polyurethane or epoxy paint??

thank you

hi
ive done my own door panels like people have said you first make a mould.
i use my old door panels cut out the centre and you r left with the outer panel the i used a thin plywood to make the mould a use car filler to shape then primed flated.
you can paint it or what i did is used duck tape it dont cost as much saves you money
as long as the service is shiney it dont mater then when ready you put on the gel coat then your fiberglass when it sets crack of the mould.

i do all my own making as im customizing my own car

What do you mean can resist the heat. If you are talking about using a paint to
seal your mould that the resin dont eat the mould or what.

Heat like vacuum forming plastic or heat like when body filler is curing?

heat like when you mix resin and hardner... the reaction cuase heat
the heat cuase spoiling the finish of the paint cleat paint or autcryle
enamil..once you apply the gelcoat...over the paint... you got my pont

ga

You dont apply gelcoat over paint point. Gelcoat is also a fibreglass product,
if you look at a fibregl**** boat for instance dit you notice the smooth glossy
on the outside that's the gelcoat, which I told you can even be coloured into
the required colour. Fibreglass moulding is not vacume forming like plastic, when
the resin and harter get mixed it starts a chemical reaction which greate heat.
If too much harter added the mould will get so hot that it can even start burning. Get the right mixing formulas from your supplier. You can also use polystyrene to make a mould, you can use a wood rasp to shape it in any way
required and smooth with wall sandpaper. Then seal it by painting it with water
based paint (P.V.A. Acrylic) let dry give another coat, make sure that the polystyrene is covered otherwize the fibreglass will eat the polystyrene it will
just melt away. After the P.V.A. is properly dry spray your fibreglass release
agent over( waterbased) can clean gun with water.Afterwards you can just
scratch the polystyrene out or pour some petrol onto it and see how it dissapear.

I am curious about this fleece. I also am just trying fiberglass to make consol etc. I did not think resin would dry properly unless on fiberglass mat. I am trying to repair a rear valance for a 70 grand prix and the fberglass will not stick to the rubber very well. Also pops off. Do you use the fleece for forming? I bought some spandex to try but have not got around to it yet. I believe this is what some custom radio installers use

YEAH I like your boat,,,, do you like mine??? sorry guys not trying to hyjack the thread

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nice boat, it seems to be a jet boat..
boat when i posted my boat...i mean its made from a to z by me..and the
boat you posted.. is not made by you..what i mean is... do you like the
way it been build?/ here is the question.. i am not just showing off??
what i mean also do i look like a good fibre glass boat builder???
yes i like your boat but you cannot beat me specially when i accelerate
my boat has 300 plus hp 9000 rpm, racing heads, Racine tuner, mad air phone
racing chopper prop, dual steering. plus intros system, foot throttle
light weight fly wheel and hi-performance fuel-efi pump 10 inches hyralick
jack plate, wide pad, and no chine walk or play at my steering wheel??


ga

ops.. i forgot to tell you that i am the drag race champion here
in my county, i am member at hot boat american magazine
and the lonley racing boats builder in the country??

ga

mix a small amount at a time, WEAR SAFETY GLASSES THE ENTIRE TIME!!! the clear liquid hardener may not blind you, it WILL blind you if it gets in your eyes, wear full eye protection, that covers top, bottom, sides, and front, or you won't be driving again

Ya man I like that paint, makes it look like it's moving just standing there. My name is skeet I'v been just a reader but util now have never did a reply before.

Hi everyone, Im new to this site and new to the whole hotroding idea (well that would be a lie, i've just never done anything about it up to now...)

I have done alot of reading on the subject before and from what i have read (from many diffrent sources) Henry Moran is completely right, this is the most pro way i have seen. The reason being is that this method will leave you with a smooth finish, the other advantages to this method is that once you have a mould made you can use it again and again (for all those of us that have a natural talent for demoliton this may be handy). Im going to be using the following method

One) create male mould (plug mould): this is the exact shape and size of the object you want, im doing to use polysterine blocks to cut out the basic shape, then im going to make the surface smooth with filler (thick stuff and the mega fine stuff), It is very important to get this the exact shape and size you want, the quality of the surface is mega important because this is the surface you will have (make it smooth it will be smooth, make it rough... well done you have made a display for your trash...). The next thing to do is to walk away from it and forget about it for a week (no its not because you have something better to do...) this is the curing period, don't rush this.


Two) create the female mould: at this stage your male mould should be nice and cured, but be carefull as the top layers may be egg shell thin. Now you appy a release agent to the plug mould (this means you can actually get the thing free in the end) Now is the stage you apply the Gel-coat and then the fibre glass matting, you can really build up the layers to make the mould nice and strong (remeber you may want to use this again and again). It helps to leave an excess at the edges, this can be trimmed later

Three) creating the object for use: This is what you have been waiting for, remove the plug mould from the female mould (no giggling at the back of the class now.....) now clean up the female mould, the surface should be really really smooth, now apply the release agent again to the inside and then appy the Gel-coat and then the fibre glass matting, now if you want to make it strong as hell, add layer upon layer, im going to be adding metal bracing into mine (its for the custom bonnet, sorry hood, im making). With any luck you have gone though this process well enough that when you remove the item from the female mould (i said no giggling.... ) it will be nice and smooth with no need for filler at all... oh and it will be all the envy of you mates.....


The reason im using this method is that it gives a supeiour finish and quality and i can make more of the items im going to produce ( a few of my friends have expressed an interest in my ideas and they are willing to pay... im only asking for cost as its friends and they have skills i don't, helping each other out is the way to go yes?)

Well i hope that helps someone


MiniMiniTrucker


"what do you mean my rides to small? well at least im not making up for anything......"

BIG DADDY ed roth used to make up a concoction for his SHow rods Bodies.
It was plaster and water mixed with Vermiculite .Which is heated and expanded MICA the shinny flakey stuff found in the mineral family.
that stuff works fine for formiong things, he would use old news papers dipped into his "SLURRY" and then lay that over a chicken wire form .
I have used old Grain ( brulap) bags over 1/4 inch rabbbit fencing. to form up some cool stuff. what your doing is called making a "plug" that is the part you will reproduce in GLASS. you can even use a form made of duct tape. or cardboard. but i find that the best way is to make the part with bent 1/4 inch rabbit wire. then lay tape or almost any thing over it.then body filler to make it smmoth. sanding it with 36 grit is good enough.
NOW then you mix up some MOLD RELEASE.
take good old IVORY SNOW FLAKES the laundry detergent. and mix it with rubbing alchol. till it beacomes like waxy water.
this will set up after you brush it on.
and be a great MOLD RELEASE. then you can use your PLUG over again for your friends car. and you end up with one "PART"
trim it and screw or glue it where ever you want.
As to cloth I use one thing layer of MAT then 1 layer of cloth then mat again.
then really saturate it with resin. so it leaves a easily sandable surface.
don't try to mix all of your resin at once. ask your supplyer for a non wax resin.that will stay sticky when it has hardened , then you can do another batch as needed. with out having to sand it to ruff it up.
and the next batch will stick fine. you can even take a day off. and cover it with some plactic wrap to keep the dust off it.
As far as how much hardener ,
Will silkly read the directions.....