![]() |
Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Home · Bulletin Board · Project Journals · Tech Article Wiki · Knowledge Base · Photo Gallery · Classifieds · Company Reviews · Calendar · T-Shirts |
|
|||||
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
Fiberglass and Heat Tolerance
What is the typical clearance that is required between fiberglass hood / body panels and hot parts such as the engine block, headers, and other exhaust components (to prevent burning or other damage)? Any info is greatly appreciated.
|
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
re: Fiberglass and Heat Tolerance
good question I'm curious on this one too.
Shane |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
re: Fiberglass and Heat Tolerance
Most resins that are used in the construction of fiberglass automotive parts will tolerate about 180 - 200* F before the resin starts to act weird.
There is no set distance, if you see your hood or whatever getting hot and rubbery and the surface mottling some it's time for a heat shield. If it's too hot to hold your hand on it for 10 seconds or so then it's too hot, IMO. Some ISO resins will tolerate 212*, but very few companies that stuff. Some epoxies will tolerate even more heat...but if it's called fiberglass, chances are that it isn't epoxy. later, mikey
__________________
BE different....ACT normal. Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
re: Fiberglass and Heat Tolerance
I agree with Mikey, if it's close to exhaust it needs a shield between it and the heat source, or consistant air flow.
Vince
__________________
Here's to you DoC, you will always be here. My project 34 http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/34-...ght=34+progress |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
re: Fiberglass and Heat Tolerance
I'd put some kind of insulation on FG on the inside. Well cured FG is probably good to 200-225 but that is d#m hot to the touch. Search the forum for alternative to lizzard skin. There is a good write up on this. Very good insulation for the cheap.
My Willys is black gel coat and in 15 min in the sun water evaporates very quickly. I've recorded 150+ surface temp. with my little thermo couple temp gage. |
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
re: Fiberglass and Heat Tolerance
a new body should be sanded put in the sun for a few days to get it cured. then epoxy both sides. excessive heat will " cook out " the resin in a fiberglass panel making it very brittle. epoxy will stop this . on the restomods i use lizard skin s/c and h/c on the bottom and inside the passenger compartment. the exhaust sets right under the tank. this helps keep the fuel cool plus i coat the fuel tank also. for the most part you will see problems in the paint before the resin gives up. hope this helps.
|
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
|
Fiberglass
A company called Coolit makes a sticky back heat shield that might work. Jeg's has it on their site and I assume Summit has it also. I did buy some for my firewall and various lines, hoses and electrical. Have not used it yet but it looks good.
Bob |
![]() |
Back to top |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads for: "Fiberglass and Heat Tolerance"
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| fiberglass firewall fix? | fezz-man | Interior | 4 | 08-21-2006 10:55 PM |
| Excessive heat in the tunnel and floorboards | Gregg | General Rodding Tech | 7 | 07-18-2005 10:25 PM |
| More fiberglass questions... | Slipangle | Body - Exterior | 0 | 04-16-2004 08:36 AM |
| Fiberglass patch panels? | flamedfordbronco | Body - Exterior | 7 | 04-10-2004 05:29 PM |
| Ballast resistor heat / fiberglass body | McDeuce | Electrical | 1 | 04-01-2004 01:29 PM |