[QUOTE=mr4speed;1613094]Ray, you are 100% correct on the fact that fiberglass should be repaired with fiberglass, metal with metal and vinyl with vinyl and so on. I am currently doing a shelby with a glass nose. There was a repair done right behind the front bumper that was cracking and repaired only using filler not glass. Obviously that repair was done incorrectly and did not hold up, so I repaired it the correct way with fiberglass strands layered in resin. That is the key word here "repair", this instance we are dealing with a hood that has no cracks, no weak spots , and no damage, it should not have it is BRAND NEW. Now when you get a hood that we all know are as wavy as an ocean, what do you do to get that hood straight? I am pretty sure you would not "resculpt" the hood with fiberglass reinforced filler or layered coats of fiberglass stranded resin. I am sure we can agree that you will most likely skim coat that whole thing to make it straight with bodyfiller. Sure you are bound to have areas that are pretty thick in the real low spots, but you and I both know that will not be a problem. Can we agree on that? Your way to fill this hood will for sure work, as will mine. After all isn't bodyfiller a resin as is fiberglass, both do use a hardener that will work on either. The example I gave was an extreme one to prove a point as to the cracking issues that were mentioned, if this way was a sure failure, it sure would have happened in this case.[/QUOT
It seems like we are having a technical banter on several different post here and the last thing I want to do is make things personal, all I want to do is give out correct information.
Body filler is more talc based and very different from fiberglass, You only use the same hardner on either a can of short or long strand fiberglass filler, Fiberglass matting is an actual fiberglass mat with resin and a liquid catalyst. If you read the label on a can of quality filler I believe that the manufacturers don't recommend a filler be applied more than 1/4 of an inch thick. The recesses in a Javelin hood are Deeper than that.
What I do to get the hood straight is block the gel coat until I come close to the actual fiberglass and skim the areas that are still low. Then I like to use a product like Evercoat Featherfill as a primer (2K will work as well but the Evercoat product is resin based).
When you say "if this way was a sure failure, it sure would have happened in this case.", not necessarily. I've seen work done on vehicles that should't have lasted 6 months that lasted several years...it doesn't make it a proper repair and I think everyone would agree that when people come to this site want to learn how to do a proper repair. I haven't been here that long but have yet to see anybody put up a post that asked what is the wrong way to do this. You yourself said "Ray, you are 100% correct on the fact that fiberglass should be repaired with fiberglass". So I hope we agree.
As far as if a hood or any part is that bad that I had to push a product way past it's limits I wouldn't use the part. In the past I actually threw out a fiberglass fender for an AMC. I wouldn't put my name on the part or the repairs it needed to be straight.