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Old 03-25-2003, 07:39 AM
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Post Fiberglass Prep Info?

Alright, I know what your thinking... Whats a Jeep Guy doing on a hotrodders site? Well here is my dilema. I am looking for answers and I did a search on prepping fiberglass and my searches lead me to you guys site! Hopefully you can help. Currently in the process of picking up supplies for a 79' Jeep CJ7 that I built up for the past two years to paint it. My dad has the experience in the paint department. Just curious if you guys have some sugjestions on Prepping my fiberglass body for paint. I am doing a Base coat/clear coat of Deep Amethyst purple. The body has no paint on it whatsoever. Just Gelcoat. Any of you guys have steps that you like to take while prepping out fiberglass tubs or hoods or anything please let me know. Anything I should be aware of before getting all my mold waves out please feel free to send me an email or leave me a message. I really apreciate anything, anybody has to say. Thanks guys!

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Old 03-25-2003, 08:06 AM
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the only problem with gelcoat is getting paint to stick to it, use a fairly rough grade of sand paper to rough the whole lot up,

you might find primer advertised as good for use on fibreglass as opposed to steel, that'll help

put 2 or 3 thin coats of primer on, sanding between layers and then go from there
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Old 03-25-2003, 03:02 PM
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well jeep i hate to disagree with andy and i certainly would not say he is wrong, but....

i am building a glass 36 ford coupe and just two years ago built a glass t bucket and i have done bodywork on both metal and glass cars so here is my opinion, fo what it's worth. if you have no raw fiberglassyou can prep very similar both glass and metal. by that i mean if the glass and the metal are both smooth and have been block sanded your paint is done the same way. to get a glass car ready for paint i first scuff the gelcoat down being carfull not to go into the fiberglass, (i disagree with andy here also it is not hard to get paint to stick to gelcoat)once you have sanded the gelcoat with 120 grit 120 grt da paper i use a product by ppg called k38 which is a very high build primer surfacer. again only if you have no raw glass showing, on those areas you need to you an epoxy primer. and by the way if you take no other info to heart listen to this one thing " never under any cercumstances use any body products that are not caytalized products" this in todays world is a very big thing. don't think you can shoot laq. primer becase it will be hidden by your caytalized base coat clear coat it wont work, but i digress, that happens as you age. anyway after you have the highbuild on you bloc it out so all sand scratches and high spots and low spots are gone, this is how you get that flawless super smooth look in paint. after a couple of good wet coats and blocking use a guide coat to see if there are any high or low spots, this is best done with a rattle can of spray paint. i know i said never use anything thats not catl. but your going to sand this off it's just so you can see where your high or low. that all done you well need to seal then base coat and clear, i won't go into all that stuff unless you need it later..

thats my two sence )

bomo
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Old 03-25-2003, 07:25 PM
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Bomo,
Thanks man I apreciate it. Like I said my dad is shooting the paint, but its been awhile since he has done some work, so times have changed. I have heard about the same basic things with the Hi-build primers. The info. you gave me I will take some notes and see what other stuff I can come up with. When you prepped your glass body for your T-bucket... How were the mold waves on something like that? Fairly easy to get out? or Time consuming? Certain size block you prefer using best or any other tricks or tips that your willing to give out let me know.
But thanks for the info you posted already!
~Real Jeeps Don't Wear Bowties~
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Old 03-26-2003, 05:26 AM
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[quote]Originally posted by bomo:
[QBand by the way if you take no other info to heart listen to this one thing " never under any cercumstances use any body products that are not caytalized products" this in todays world is a very big thing. don't think you can shoot laq. primer becase it will be hidden by your caytalized base coat clear coat it wont work
bomo[/QB]<hr></blockquote>

I have a question on this bomo. You say never use uncatylized products uder the BC/CC. I have been using a laquer based build primer and then a catalized epoxy sealer over it before the BC/CC. All the products were recommended by my local paint store. I have had no problems with the topcoat.

I bring this up, because in my opinion the laquer based build primer is easier to work with and much faster drying. What are your thoughts on this. Anyone else as well.......

Chris
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Old 03-26-2003, 01:18 PM
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JEEP THE WAVES YOU GET IN MOST GLSS IS NOT THAT HARD TO SMOOTH OUT A COUPLE MAYBE 3-4 COATS OF HIGH BUILD AND THE BLOCKS I USE ARE A LONG FOAM BLOCK WITH METAL FLEXIBLE BOTTOM WHICH WAS OVER $50.00 BUT IS WELL WORTH THE MONEY AS YOU CAN GET A BETTER JOB WITH A LONG BLOCK. NOW ON SOME AREAS YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO USE THAT BIG BLOCK, BUT TRY AND USE SOME BLOCK ALL THE TIME BECAUSE HAND SANDING CAN SOMETIMES PUT MORE WAVES IN THE BODY THAN YOU HAD TO START.

NOW TO ADDRESS THE QUESTION CHRIS HAD.

CHRIS I HAVE USED THE OLD LAQ. PRIMERS FOR YEARS BUT EVERY PERSON THAT SELLS USES AND TEACHES HOW TO USE THE "NEW" PRODUCTS REALY ADVISE AGAINST THAT "OLD SCHOOL" LAQ PRIMER AT LEAST THE ONE THAT I KNOW. IN FACT I WENT TO PPG PAINT SCHOOL A CPL. YEARS BACK AND THAT SAME QUESTION WAS BROUGHT UP BY LETS CALL HIM A SEASONED BODY MAN THAT HAD BEEN USEING THE LAQ. PRIMER FOR YEARS WITH NO ADVERSE EFFECT HE SAID. THE TEACHER OF THIS CLASS SAID IT'S POSSIBLE TO USE IT BUT HE NEVER WOULD USE OLD LAQ. PRODUCTS WITH TODAYS PRODUCTS. SO I TOOK THAT AS, HEY WHY TAKE A CHANCE. ALSO THERE ARE STILL A LOT OF UNINFORMED PEOPLE BOTH SELLING AND SPRAYING THIS STUFF.. ENOUGH SAID

OH BY THE WAY JEEP GET A REAL GOOD RESPORATOR FOR DAD THIS NEW PAINT IS LOADED WITH ISOCYANATES (PROBL SPELLED WRONG) AND IT CAN KILL YOU IF YOU INHALE IT MANY PRODUCTS HAVE THIS IN THEM.. GOOD LUCK

BOMO
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Old 03-27-2003, 12:20 PM
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The last five cars I have painted I have used good old Kondar lacquer primer under my base coat/clear coat and i have had NO problems. However, in the future I think I will start using the newer 2 part primers as that is what DuPont suggests.

Benji
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