HI guys. I'm trying to figure out how to attach the gas tank cover to the body without having bolt heads showing. It seems like glassed in studs would just pull out. Anybody have any luck doing this? Thanks!
Interestingly enough, a friend of mine, named Mark, who lives in the Ozarks, had this solution. I don't know where he gets them, or what they are called, but it's basically a stud mounted to a wide thin flange. He grinds down the surrounding glass, then imbeds them under 3 layers of resin and mat. Nothing shows from the outside. Hope you can see it in this picture. This is the view from underneath.
Thanks Bob. Attaching from the underside would minimize pull out. After looking at your attached picture, I found a website for Weld Mount studs. They attach to the underside of a panel with an adhesive. I think I'll give them a try. If they don't work, they can go into the pile of all the other good ideas I've had.
Those look like they ought to work - probably even better if the flat plate was perforated, allowing the adhesive more to hold on to. Just drill a few small holes in them.
I think a way to do it would be to make a metal strip, an inch and half or so wide going over both bolt holes on each side. Weld the stud to the bottom of both of them then bond it to the panel. But aren't all those bolts covered anyway? The side ones go to the fenders and the upper ones go under the body don't they?
Brian, The side bolts are hidden, and do go through the flange on the fenders. The upper bolts were on the surface on the original cars - the gas tank cover goes on top of a flange on the back of the body, with the top edge just under a small lip on the body. The picture in gelcoat shows the lip. Mine are on the surface like the originals - lots of guys with fiberglass cars want that smooth look with no bolts showing.
On my 34 the only bolts in the gas tank cover are the ones through the fender flange and are hidden. I have no bolts along the top edge below the trunk lid. It just fits in the groove and stays there.
I use bolts from Ace Harware called "elevator bolts". They have a thin round head. I grind both sides of the head off leaving a strip with the stud sticking out. That way they will not spin inside the 'glass.
I use 2-3 layers of 'glass matt with a hole poked in them for the stud to stick out of, then just use resin to glue them on.
If you have a large Ace, you will have a better chance that they will have them than a small store. Personally I would use at least four studs. More if you think it is needed. Try not to put any out in the middle. When you tighten them it could distort the 'glass a little.
Be sure to sand the inside of the glass panel with a heavy grit sandpaper like 80, where you are going to put them. Ideally the resin sticks better if you sand deep enough that some 'glass fibers are exposed.
Brush enough resin on the fiberglass mat to soak it good.
I guess I am a little confused, where are you going to use elevator bolts? They are not needed at the gas tank cover to fender joint. Align the gas tank cover and fender and hold it in place with vise grips or a "C" clamp. Drill four 5/16" holes through both the fender flange and the gas tank cover flange and secure with bolts and self locking nuts, do not over tighten.
If you’re planning on using elevator bolts at the top of the gas tank cover IMHO they are not needed and you run the risk of making the cover not fit properly by adding the extra material for the elevator bolts.
I went through this very same thing on my 34 whether or not to put bolts in the top edge of the gas tank cover. The general consensus is they are not needed and mine have been that way going on seven years now with zero problems.
Your call - I bolted mine for two reasons - I wanted it to match Henry's original (not going for a shaved look), and I didn't want the panel moving around a possibly chipping the paint.
FWIW my gas tank panel fits very tight at the top and does not move around at all. My 34 is a streetrod not a Henry Ford original.
Vince
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