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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2010, 05:47 PM
Hwyhogg's Avatar
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Red65, that IS all clear now, not using this stuff on the window channel, just thought I'd let everyone know which products (filler) I'd chosen for the areas that NEED it I will be using the nasty sticky stuff loved and known as butyl, haven't heard of anything better for my application....thanks for watchin' out for me though, my wife appreciates all the help she can get

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2010, 06:35 AM
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hwy,
food for thought:
your on a tight budget....
I warned you "be gentle" on those huge flat unsupported body panels on your first "Guru" thread!!!

save your Black Diamond blasting media for those panels....
(it will cut with less PSI and less time)

on structural strong areas like the sill that can't warp,,,kiddie play sand from Lowes/HD is fine ($4?/80lbs) "if" that $10 blaster tip oriface is big enough....
(not critical but there is some salt in the sand so give it a quick swipe with a damp towel to clean the salts off surface if you are not going to wax/grease remover clean and epoxy on the same day or two,,,ex:this mornings humidity was 86%+ and 46* at 6am with light wind so that salted surface would be damp till atleast 11am or later and causing micro-rust to start)

you may have to granular size screen the play sand thru a piece of home window screen for less tip clogs????

Don't buy it if it appears even slightly damp (cakes) in the bag in the store,,,sand is hydroscopic...

LOL,,, I'd spend the $4 to give the sand a try,,,if it is a PITA with that blaster gun,,,I'd use the sand to level low spots in my yard...

very good chance you will go thru "ALOT" of media blasting material by the time your done....

more food for thought:
your planned ospho wash off the new rust on the non-insulated hood will be a true "acid" test for bubbles with satin black paint...
it is the constantly/repeatedly hottest surface with most Florida UV on the truck!!!!
(do buy enough extra satin black so you will have a color and sheen match for a re-do)

hey Brian,,,lol,,,how's "ospho a black hood" for a "don't read the TDS" torture test conditions!!!

Last edited by red65mustang; 03-03-2010 at 07:36 AM.
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hwyhogg
Brian,
that makes complete sense to me! The areas' damage seems more cosmetic than structural at this point and if proper prep and then epoxy seals it, that's a level of "repair" I can live with. I did go to a supply house in Tampa today and discussed this repair. The owner of the store has been in the auto body field for a few decades. He suggested for a smaller area like that to use the everglass instead of the Metal2metal. He also said the everglass would be good for any areas that have smaller pinhole rust. He also suggested blasting the pitted areas (as did Red65 and Syclone on the other thread). He said back when he worked in body shops, they would just slap some regular filler in an area like that and be done. He was very open about selling me what I wanted, and that he does sell less expensive products that have a place to be used, but generally the better stuff does cost more.
Thanks to RED65 & Syclone, I did find the $10 blaster at Tractor Supply. A 50 lb. bag of black diamond blasting media was $8. Haven't used it yet Enclosed is a pic for any more novices in need of such a tool.
Hogg, just a word of caution using your new spot blaster, the bag will rip out at the sewn seems if you use air pressure that is to high. Turn the pressure down to maybe 40-50 or so and try that. Ask me how I know lol
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:08 AM
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Chas350 thanks for the warning. I haven't opened the package, but I ASSumed it "sucked" the sand from the bag using a venturi type effect; oh well, better to start with lower psi and work up anyway.

RED65, there's a warning label on the gun itself not to use sand or any silica product I did use the cheap play sand with the borrowed blaster when I did the suspension parts a few years back. I will be using this gun to go over the sill's pitted area and probably the door sills and any more pitted areas. If you look at my journal pics and see the bare metal panels; I never used any sand-blasting on the sheet metal of truck, only chemical stripping and then DA orbital to bare metal. I was ultra cautious because of the "warping" stories I'd heard of back when I was even more ignorant than I am now, (hard to believe, I know ). Think I lost a few brain cells to that Aircraft stripper the first few hours before I put on my respirator...Also, don't mention any yard-work loud enough to let my wife hear, else I may be digging/planting more than stripping/primering
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:18 AM
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it takes no more than 30 lbs to blast with. never get 90 degrees of the panel. it will warp at 10 lbs of pressure.
sand is for kids to play in and cats to **** in. it has no place near an automobile.
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:13 AM
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shine,,
here's a "time warp" thread that you answered extremely well on blast medias...

what kind of sand do i need for sandblaster?

I agree sand ain't the best media by a mile and there is a risk for damage (neither is the Black Diamond coal slag dust),,, but,,, Hwy is only going to use sand to spot blast structural areas he can't get to with sanding and/or a 3M stripper wheel...

Hwy,
I don't know squat about that gun
so just my $.02:
"no sand allowed" warning with that gun can be for (silicosis) health safety,,,, or,,,, because of what the tip and seals are made from...

buy your buddy 2 cases of beer and some new replacement tips as a thank you and borrow his blaster again to use sand????
use the black diamond in the $10 gun????
and wear your respirator mask!!!
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2010, 11:03 AM
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10-4 onthe respirator mask! Don't need any "black lung". Never thought I'd be wishing for warmer weather (anxious to start shooting the epoxy). Looks like highs only in the low 60's through the weekend. Guys up yonder don't hate me for sayin' that.....after what you guys have had this winter.
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