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Old 03-01-2010, 07:32 AM
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Filler choice overload??!!??

Surprise, need a little input here. In my windshield channel rust thread, Evercoat's metal2metal was mentioned. I've done searches on here and many are very happy with Evercoat products. I went to Evercoat's site hoping to narrow my choices down for my selection. I was thinking, is the metal2metal really the "closest thing to lead" as they quoted? Should I use this for all of my filler needs? Most of my filler is going to be used for dings and small dents with no rust issues. I've heard good about the rage gold and extreme. Evercoat describes each a little differently, but other than maybe the application (actually putting it on), and sandability of each product does it really matter? I'm going to call Evercoat and see if they have any real guidance, (my experience with sales people is they try to sell the most expensive product or simply let you sell yourself on what you came in wanting). FYI, I like the description of the metal2metal and its resistance to moisture, maybe it wouldn't "wick" or be as hydroscopic? Does it REALLY have a high metal content?
As always, thanks for participating in my "education" and graduation from ignoramus status
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:34 AM
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metal to metal is junk. dont bother with it. if it is epoxied then any filler will work. if there are holes use duraglass.
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:46 AM
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agree with shine. Mostly the difference in body filler is the price and way it sands.

but shine why do you say metal to metal is junk?? just curious
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Old 03-01-2010, 08:34 AM
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it is just another polyester filler. has aluminum and talc in it along with silicate . it is not all it is made up to be . marketed for the home diy person.
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:46 AM
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Yep, it's hype. Another thing to think about is does this REALLY need to be done? Are we still talking about a window channel? If this is hidden, why do we need to repair it at all? Depending on how deep you are going on a car repairing what is not seen is big with me. In collision repair without a doubt, I don't care if it is hidden, it gets repaired.

But with this rust, unless you cut it out and replacing you are playing with yourself anyway. So why fill pits when they can be sand blasted, epoxied and THAT would be the best thing you can do to "repair" the rust and have it not come back, which isn't that the point?

The LESS stuff you put where it is prone to rust the better. Sand blasted, epoxy and seam sealer on any seams, that is the best you can do. Even when welding in a patch in the window channel, tack weld it, then protect it with epoxy and seam sealer. THAT makes more sense IF what you are after is keeping the rust from coming back. To finish it all off in filler and make it pretty is actually going to open the door for it to rust again, so why do it?

Brian
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Old 03-01-2010, 03:25 PM
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Brian,
that makes complete sense to me! The areas' damage seems more cosmetic than structural at this point and if proper prep and then epoxy seals it, that's a level of "repair" I can live with. I did go to a supply house in Tampa today and discussed this repair. The owner of the store has been in the auto body field for a few decades. He suggested for a smaller area like that to use the everglass instead of the Metal2metal. He also said the everglass would be good for any areas that have smaller pinhole rust. He also suggested blasting the pitted areas (as did Red65 and Syclone on the other thread). He said back when he worked in body shops, they would just slap some regular filler in an area like that and be done. He was very open about selling me what I wanted, and that he does sell less expensive products that have a place to be used, but generally the better stuff does cost more.
Thanks to RED65 & Syclone, I did find the $10 blaster at Tractor Supply. A 50 lb. bag of black diamond blasting media was $8. Haven't used it yet Enclosed is a pic for any more novices in need of such a tool.
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Old 03-01-2010, 08:27 PM
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You might have leaking problems without fixing them if the windshield is held in with a windshield rubber but if it is held in with urethane, that will seal it.
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:06 PM
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Well, the way it was on when I took the glass out, was a healthy bead of some sort of sealer was in the channel, then the rubber seal and the glass was in the rubber....is the urethane for newer cars?
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:17 PM
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yes urethane is for newer cars. you will want it smooth so the rubber can make it's seal, if there are pits the water can get in there and sit, rusting it out again and even leak.
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:22 PM
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I forgot you are working on a 56 so it will be a rubber seal.
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:43 PM
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Some nice nails you got there, lol Just looked at your journal, nice work, wanna come down to sunny FL. and practice painting my logo on my panel truck
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:23 AM
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Went to the local auto body supply store to get some z-grip today. It was $25 dollars and the guy there (jobber?) said it is good stuff, but he was selling the rage gold with the new Quantum1 glaze in a tube (2 parts dispensed like the epoxy tubes do) for $35. Since I was getting the z-grip only because it was cheaper than the rage, I got the Rage and Quantum. This will be the filler I use for the minor dents/dings...I will be using the everglass for any areas with pinholes and such.....so for now my filler dilemma has been addressed and will share pics and newbie perspective on my project journal,
Thanks to all,
James
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:10 PM
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The Rage Gold is a good choice, that's what I use and is very user friendly.
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:14 PM
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Oh by the way I would love to come to Florida but not in the plans at present but if opportunity arises I will be sure to look you up.
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Old 03-02-2010, 04:50 PM
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hwy,
I thought I made this clear on the other thread...

your going to need to use the black buytyl that sticks and seals like a SOB...

the sill is fine for blast then just epoxy/paint/butyl that you work to be level with your fingers under the rubber seal...
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