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| View Poll Results: What would you do? | |||
| I would use filler to bare metal then epoxy primer. |
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16 | 25.00% |
| I would epoxy primer to bare metal then use filler |
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48 | 75.00% |
| Voters: 64. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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#61
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Now that I've re-read this for at least the 3rd (or is it the 4th time), I am still confused as to which way is best. It looks like the poll says (1)epoxy, then (2) filler - Bondo or whatever then,(3) a primer-surfacer THEN (4) your paint. I didn't see that anyone was using a self etching base such as DuPont Variprime - or was that the PPG K-36 under the epoxy? Is there any thought on that.
I intend on using epoxy direct to the bare metal under my fenders and running boards as well as the floor boards, the rest of the sheet metal will have Variprime, filler, primer-surfacer then DuPont Chroma Base (the Chroma Premier is urethane/isocyanate and deadly for the "average" home user). Any thoughts on this?? Thanks |
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#62
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I'm pretty sure Variprime then filler is a big no-no. If you want to use self-etching primer the procedure would be reversed, filler, then Variprime on the exposed metal areas, then 2K primer on top of that.
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#63
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I think you are correct - Variprime has to outgas any residual acid gasses and set up for a while. Luckily I will not have much in the way of "Bondo" as the body is new (Brookville) and has a minimum number of dings - one of the few good things with this body. Will only need to Variprime the grille shell, fenders and and running boards, seal, maybe put some Icing on the dings and paint. DuPont (and probably the rest, too) seem to lack really good basic information in the tech write ups
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#64
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boonstein
Hey guys , I am new to this page. I have been working on cars for the past 16 years. I have never seen epoxy turn loose of metal if it was prepaired right. As for the debate, it will always be there. I use filler first then epoxy. I have never had it to fail. But as some of you have stated, no mater what process you use the failures can be traced back to poor prep or mistakes. Both ways have to work because too many people do it both ways. You guys give alot of good info.
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#66
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Quote:
Because POR-15 isn't a primer that you would want to use on an area that's going to be finish painted, as the exterior of a car. It's fine on frames and as a "under coating" but really isn't suited for exterior finish work. |
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#68
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Epoxy/Filler
I know the info I am about to ask about is probably here, I just have not taken the time to find it guess. I am working on a 38 Pontiac and have started the firewall recondition. I have sanded all the metal applied Naval Jelly, and couple coats of epoxy primer. I am putting on filler, but when I sand down the filler I create bare metal in some places which is beginning to rust. My question to you guys is what should I do to the bare spots that I have made? Also some say to sand a spot down about a foot square work it with naval jelly. What do you do with the areas which are ready for epoxy since you usually only have time for small area at a time? (my case) Any help on this would be appreciated. Rod
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#69
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Quote:
__________________________________________________ _____________ Now this is the best description I've read. READ THE TECH SHEETS for the products you are using. USE GOOD QUALITY PRODUCTS! Remember the saying "You get what you paid for" |
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#70
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I didn't have to read very far to see where this was going ..
Adhesion is what creates corrosion resistance ..Looks like the original poster proved it ....LACK OF ADHEASION....Let it set a year if you feel better As I have said before ,,when the oems start using it to produce finishes on new veh ..I will use it It was designed to seal down problem finishes (if you were not planning on stripping or in other words ,doing it correctly) Every one is sold on the stinking word...EPOXY...... Its a band aid for proper prep .. Does anyone Know of one oem that uses it to produce a car?.... Plenty of them are repaired before delivery .. In 37 years I have never sanded a veh for repair & found it..Ever... I have used it on occasion when there was crap on the car to begin with ,that is what it was designed for ,a sealer You need to stop spreading this BS to all the newbs ,or get a job in the real world of body repair.. Its a good product for what it was designed for ...Nothing more ....I'm waiting for someone to show me (prove to me )what I am missing ..I have jobbers in my shop every week ...No one is pushing the stuff (even just for profit ) Most of you deal with cars that never see the light of day ,,I have tracked cars that I have painted ,sometimes for more than 20 years , in every day use Flame away ... |
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#71
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Quote:
Nothing was implied as to it being epoxy.... |
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#72
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Oh boy there I hate to burst your bubble Action, but MANY OEM's have the recommendation of making repairs with epoxy over metal before filler! I am Toyota certified and they do for instance. Epoxy first over bare metal, then filler to maintain the factory warrantee.
On aluminum parts we apply epoxy before filler as recommended by all OEM manufacturers that I know of. Epoxy is recommended over the bare aluminum on late model Vettes before bonding the SMC inner fenders on for instance. EVERY manufacturer that I know of PREACHES, WARNS that you apply epoxy primer over bare metal in the window pinch welds before installing a urethane set window. That urethane set window is to be set ON the epoxy and NOTHING else. Those are pretty firm recommendations from the OEM. Brian |
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#73
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Quote:
the trick there is just shoot a bit of epoxy primer on it before you leave it for any extended time..I use a small detail gun and just mix a tablespoon or so of epoxy..only takes a minute to do that and I do not have to deal with the question of rust on bare metal spots and yes it is normal when blocking to wind up with bare spots specially if the car was a bit rough to begin with..Heavens some epoxies can even be brushed on if it just a small area.. Sam
__________________
I would rather make it work than make it popular..And if it does not work it will not be popular.. |
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