Hotrodders Bulletin Board Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Home · Bulletin Board · Project Journals · Tech Article Wiki · Knowledge Base · Photo Gallery · Classifieds · Company Reviews · Calendar · T-Shirts


Thanks!Thanks Streetbeasts lawsuit donors!thanks
See the full list of donors helping to protect free speech.

We're winning the case!
Get the latest update on the lawsuit, see the original lawsuit post, or read the article Streetbeasts doesn't want you to see.

Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts
Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help > Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now


View Poll Results: What would you do?
I would use filler to bare metal then epoxy primer. 16 25.00%
I would epoxy primer to bare metal then use filler 48 75.00%
Voters: 64. You may not vote on this poll

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #61  
Old 03-21-2006, 12:18 PM
Irelands child's Avatar
Irelands child Irelands child is online now
Registered User
 
Irelands child's barnstar
Wiki editor
Last wiki edit: Ford engine specifications
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: UPSTATE NY
Posts: 1,853
Wiki Edits: 8

Now that I've re-read this for at least the 3rd (or is it the 4th time), I am still confused as to which way is best. It looks like the poll says (1)epoxy, then (2) filler - Bondo or whatever then,(3) a primer-surfacer THEN (4) your paint. I didn't see that anyone was using a self etching base such as DuPont Variprime - or was that the PPG K-36 under the epoxy? Is there any thought on that.

I intend on using epoxy direct to the bare metal under my fenders and running boards as well as the floor boards, the rest of the sheet metal will have Variprime, filler, primer-surfacer then DuPont Chroma Base (the Chroma Premier is urethane/isocyanate and deadly for the "average" home user).

Any thoughts on this??

Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #62  
Old 03-21-2006, 12:27 PM
crashtech's Avatar
crashtech crashtech is offline
Technician
 
crashtech's barnstar
Wiki editor
Last wiki edit: How to start hotrodding with little knowledge or money
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Idaho
Posts: 613
Wiki Edits: 14

I'm pretty sure Variprime then filler is a big no-no. If you want to use self-etching primer the procedure would be reversed, filler, then Variprime on the exposed metal areas, then 2K primer on top of that.
Reply With Quote
  #63  
Old 03-21-2006, 01:43 PM
Irelands child's Avatar
Irelands child Irelands child is online now
Registered User
 
Irelands child's barnstar
Wiki editor
Last wiki edit: Ford engine specifications
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: UPSTATE NY
Posts: 1,853
Wiki Edits: 8

I think you are correct - Variprime has to outgas any residual acid gasses and set up for a while. Luckily I will not have much in the way of "Bondo" as the body is new (Brookville) and has a minimum number of dings - one of the few good things with this body. Will only need to Variprime the grille shell, fenders and and running boards, seal, maybe put some Icing on the dings and paint. DuPont (and probably the rest, too) seem to lack really good basic information in the tech write ups
Reply With Quote
  #64  
Old 04-26-2006, 11:15 AM
Boonstein Boonstein is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: North Carolina USA
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

boonstein

Hey guys , I am new to this page. I have been working on cars for the past 16 years. I have never seen epoxy turn loose of metal if it was prepaired right. As for the debate, it will always be there. I use filler first then epoxy. I have never had it to fail. But as some of you have stated, no mater what process you use the failures can be traced back to poor prep or mistakes. Both ways have to work because too many people do it both ways. You guys give alot of good info.
Reply With Quote
  #65  
Old 06-16-2006, 11:06 AM
Psquare75 Psquare75 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 54
Wiki Edits: 0

Just found this thread..

How come no one mentioned POR15?
Reply With Quote
  #66  
Old 06-16-2006, 03:41 PM
Centerline's Avatar
Centerline Centerline is offline
HotRodsAndHemis.com
Streetbeasts lawsuit donor
 
Centerline's barnstar
Wiki editor
Last wiki edit: Streetbeasts fraud controversy
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: BF, AZ
Posts: 4,376
Wiki Edits: 38

Quote:
Originally Posted by Psquare75
Just found this thread..

How come no one mentioned POR15?


Because POR-15 isn't a primer that you would want to use on an area that's going to be finish painted, as the exterior of a car. It's fine on frames and as a "under coating" but really isn't suited for exterior finish work.
Reply With Quote
  #67  
Old 06-16-2006, 04:06 PM
Psquare75 Psquare75 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 54
Wiki Edits: 0

They do have a specific "tie coat" which is POR15 and is able to be painted over..

Also, FWIW, I've taken POR15 and sprayed over it, and havent had any problems yet.
Reply With Quote
  #68  
Old 10-24-2008, 02:42 PM
MrRod MrRod is offline
Registered User
Streetbeasts lawsuit donor
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 31
Wiki Edits: 0

Epoxy/Filler

I know the info I am about to ask about is probably here, I just have not taken the time to find it guess. I am working on a 38 Pontiac and have started the firewall recondition. I have sanded all the metal applied Naval Jelly, and couple coats of epoxy primer. I am putting on filler, but when I sand down the filler I create bare metal in some places which is beginning to rust. My question to you guys is what should I do to the bare spots that I have made? Also some say to sand a spot down about a foot square work it with naval jelly. What do you do with the areas which are ready for epoxy since you usually only have time for small area at a time? (my case) Any help on this would be appreciated. Rod
Reply With Quote
  #69  
Old 03-16-2009, 05:05 PM
FreeRider's Avatar
FreeRider FreeRider is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tioga, PA
Age: 49
Posts: 15
Wiki Edits: 0

Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR


I have seen this question brought up many times "Epoxy or bare metal?" To qualify my comments as being nonpartial, I have NEVER in my life applied epoxy prior to filler, NEVER. So I am one of the bare metal guys. Not because I think it is better, but because I have simply never had the push behind me to do it doing collision repair every day. It does take a little more time that we never seem to have.

That being said, I think it is the right way to do it (epoxy first that is) just by the science of it.

People have said, "The filler manufacturer (Evercoat for instance) says BARE METAL, they do NOT say epoxy". To which I reply "They can't endorse a brand of epoxy for fear of alienating all the other epoxy companies and they can't say ANY epoxy because there are junk products out there". It is that simple, they can't say use SPI epoxy, NO PPG, DuPont, etc jobber would have Evercoat on their shelf! They would loose BIG numbers in sales. They can't say "Any" epoxy because they would get bit by failures when people put Evercoat filler over some junk low grade epoxy and be blamed for it.

I posed these thoughts to the Evercoat guys and they agreed. A quality epoxy primer is best. They just can't put it in the tech sheets. Bare metal is "good enough" and is "safe" that is why they say it. NOW, if you look at the tech sheet for EVERCOAT polyester putties it says to apply it over "OEM Cured finishes" and "Two part primers". So they are opening the door there a little.Brian

__________________________________________________ _____________
Now this is the best description I've read.
READ THE TECH SHEETS for the products you are using.
USE GOOD QUALITY PRODUCTS! Remember the saying "You get what you paid for"
Reply With Quote
  #70  
Old 03-16-2009, 06:20 PM
action4478 action4478 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Muskegon Michigan
Posts: 21
Wiki Edits: 0

I didn't have to read very far to see where this was going ..

Adhesion is what creates corrosion resistance ..Looks like the original poster proved it ....LACK OF ADHEASION....Let it set a year if you feel better

As I have said before ,,when the oems start using it to produce finishes on new veh ..I will use it

It was designed to seal down problem finishes (if you were not planning on stripping or in other words ,doing it correctly)

Every one is sold on the stinking word...EPOXY......

Its a band aid for proper prep ..

Does anyone Know of one oem that uses it to produce a car?.... Plenty of them are repaired before delivery ..

In 37 years I have never sanded a veh for repair & found it..Ever... I have used it on occasion when there was crap on the car to begin with ,that is what it was designed for ,a sealer

You need to stop spreading this BS to all the newbs ,or get a job in the real world of body repair..
Its a good product for what it was designed for ...Nothing more ....I'm waiting for someone to show me (prove to me )what I am missing ..I have jobbers in my shop every week ...No one is pushing the stuff (even just for profit )

Most of you deal with cars that never see the light of day ,,I have tracked cars that I have painted ,sometimes for more than 20 years , in every day use


Flame away ...
Reply With Quote
  #71  
Old 03-16-2009, 06:27 PM
action4478 action4478 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Muskegon Michigan
Posts: 21
Wiki Edits: 0

Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR I have seen this question brought up many times "Epoxy or bare metal?" To qualify my comments as being nonpartial, I have NEVER in my life applied epoxy prior to filler, NEVER. So I am one of the bare metal guys. Not because I think it is better, but because I have simply never had the push behind me to do it doing collision repair every day. It does take a little more time that we never seem to have. That being said, I think it is the right way to do it (epoxy first that is) just by the science of it. People have said, "The filler manufacturer (Evercoat for instance) says BARE METAL, they do NOT say epoxy". To which I reply "They can't endorse a brand of epoxy for fear of alienating all the other epoxy companies and they can't say ANY epoxy because there are junk products out there". It is that simple, they can't say use SPI epoxy, NO PPG, DuPont, etc jobber would have Evercoat on their shelf! They would loose BIG numbers in sales. They can't say "Any" epoxy because they would get bit by failures when people put Evercoat filler over some junk low grade epoxy and be blamed for it. I posed these thoughts to the Evercoat guys and they agreed. A quality epoxy primer is best. They just can't put it in the tech sheets. Bare metal is "good enough" and is "safe" that is why they say it. NOW, if you look at the tech sheet for EVERCOAT polyester putties it says to apply it over "OEM Cured finishes" and "Two part primers". So they are opening the door there a little.Brian
Your spin on what was implied .....


Nothing was implied as to it being epoxy....
Reply With Quote
  #72  
Old 03-16-2009, 08:39 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
MARTINSR MARTINSR is offline
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
Streetbeasts lawsuit donor
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 50
Posts: 4,748
Wiki Edits: 0

Oh boy there I hate to burst your bubble Action, but MANY OEM's have the recommendation of making repairs with epoxy over metal before filler! I am Toyota certified and they do for instance. Epoxy first over bare metal, then filler to maintain the factory warrantee.

On aluminum parts we apply epoxy before filler as recommended by all OEM manufacturers that I know of.

Epoxy is recommended over the bare aluminum on late model Vettes before bonding the SMC inner fenders on for instance.

EVERY manufacturer that I know of PREACHES, WARNS that you apply epoxy primer over bare metal in the window pinch welds before installing a urethane set window. That urethane set window is to be set ON the epoxy and NOTHING else.

Those are pretty firm recommendations from the OEM.

Brian
Reply With Quote
  #73  
Old 03-16-2009, 09:53 PM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
OneMoreTime OneMoreTime is offline
Hotrodders.com Moderator
Streetbeasts lawsuit donor
 
OneMoreTime's barnstar
Wiki editor
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 65
Posts: 4,748
Wiki Edits: 3

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRod
I know the info I am about to ask about is probably here, I just have not taken the time to find it guess. I am working on a 38 Pontiac and have started the firewall recondition. I have sanded all the metal applied Naval Jelly, and couple coats of epoxy primer. I am putting on filler, but when I sand down the filler I create bare metal in some places which is beginning to rust. My question to you guys is what should I do to the bare spots that I have made? Also some say to sand a spot down about a foot square work it with naval jelly. What do you do with the areas which are ready for epoxy since you usually only have time for small area at a time? (my case) Any help on this would be appreciated. Rod



the trick there is just shoot a bit of epoxy primer on it before you leave it for any extended time..I use a small detail gun and just mix a tablespoon or so of epoxy..only takes a minute to do that and I do not have to deal with the question of rust on bare metal spots and yes it is normal when blocking to wind up with bare spots specially if the car was a bit rough to begin with..Heavens some epoxies can even be brushed on if it just a small area..

Sam
__________________
I would rather make it work than make it popular..And if it does not work it will not be popular..
Reply With Quote
Reply
Back to top

This discussion has been added to the Body - Exterior Discussions category of the Hotrodders Knowledge Base.



Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads for: "Filler over epoxy or Epoxy over filler? Here is some good info"
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
"Basic of Basics" How do you properly apply filler? Centerline Body - Exterior 2 02-10-2006 12:22 AM
Blower 6-71 info, good choice ? x007 Engine 23 05-21-2004 10:19 PM
good engine info stonedchihuahua Hotrodders Knowledge Base 1 05-30-2003 03:07 PM
Good info for f-bodys stonedchihuahua Hotrodders Knowledge Base 2 03-05-2003 10:56 PM
Good number info site/again slider in wa Hotrodders' Lounge 1 10-24-2002 01:58 PM



Powered by: vBulletin Version 3.0.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 2.3.2 © 2005, Crawlability, Inc.
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:38 AM.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2009. All Rights Reserved.