[turbo t]

hey guys i am doing extended arches on my friends car and there is a fair amount of filler in them for making them level and true (they are rounded)

so this being a dark colour i want it perfect no sinkages etc

any help for this 1

my paint rep said to apply polly primer to the repairs leave few days .....block with 180 then apply 2k primer let sit for about 1 week then 320 then 600or800 to finish

how dose this sound

thanks

tommy

[AntnyL]

Sounds like long curing times. What's up with that? And what do you mean by "sinkage"?

[turbo t]

i just dont want ripples/ sinkages in later life with the amount of filler on them


dose the rep sound ok plan ?


tommy

[AntnyL]

Originally Posted by turbo t

i just dont want ripples/ sinkages in later life with the amount of filler on them


dose the rep sound ok plan ?


tommy

I've been convinced that epoxy primer over filler is the best way to go. From what I've experienced, any shrinkage issues will be due not to the primer/topcoats, but the amount of filler used. If you have a lot of filler, not sure what to do to prevent these issues. Building up with metal and minimizing the filler is the best way to prevent it. I'm not a pro, but that's worked for me. Hope this helps.

Antny

[turbo t]

there is quite a lot of filler i thought it was the primer that shrinks as it pulls into the filler or may i be wrong?

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by turbo t

there is quite a lot of filler i thought it was the primer that shrinks as it pulls into the filler or may i be wrong?

You're right Turbo, the primer is the leading cause for shrinkage. People pile it on to make up for imperfections in the filler. Pin holes, scraches, waves in the filler can't be corrected with primer. Well, except for polyester primer. Polyester primer is basically like spraying polyester putty or body filler. It is literally the same stuff, but sprayable.

It is not going to shrink, if applied correctly. Don't pile it on, apply a three or four coats and you will have plenty to block to perfection. Then apply a urethane primer over that and then sand that with your 600 or 800 prior to paint.

There are other ways, sure, but this is a standard of the industry. You could apply the paint right over the polyester, but polyester is so much harder to sand that it is common to miss coarse scratches with the later finer prior to paint sanding. So to use the polyester primer to block with 180 and then prime it with a good urethane and use the urethane as your base for paint is ideal. Yes, you could use a good epoxy for the final prime as well. I prefer the urethane, much easier to sand.

Brian