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Old 10-08-2005, 06:01 PM
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filling holes

I am taking th body trim off my car and now I am left with little holes...what do I do now without welding?

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Old 10-08-2005, 06:17 PM
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filling holes

The only right way to do it is to weld in the holes. I would not try to just fill with anything. I guess you could use some form of fiberglass, but i would not just bondo them in. I would still weld them.
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Old 10-08-2005, 07:02 PM
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Welding is the best way. Other that that Dura-Glass would be my next choice.
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Old 10-08-2005, 08:28 PM
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A mig welder will fill them nicely.....watch for warpage.
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Old 10-08-2005, 11:18 PM
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As said before, welding would be the best way. Other then that, don't use plastic filler since it absorbs water. Fiberglass filler, all metal filler, or maybe one of the panel adhesive materials. After the holes are filled if needed regular bodyfiller can be applied over the fiberglass. Also I wouldn't just fill the holes, I'd actually use a pick hammer or something to indent a bit around the holes, so the filler is not just adhering to the hole itself, but also a little area around them.
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Old 10-08-2005, 11:39 PM
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re: filling holes

Hi Dana ,
I'll go along with Kenseth on this one .Welding would be preferred , but if you can't , then this would be the PERFECT place for a panel boding adhesive .
Cut out some small sheet metal discs slightly larger than the holes , and using a sheet metal panel adhesive , glue the discs on BEHIND the holes. Of course you are going to have to have access to the BACK of the panel to correctly prep the panels prior to gluing .Then once the glue has set , grind the area immediately around the OUTSIDE of the hole (actually, this might give you enough of a concave in the surface ) fill with conventional filler , sand , & prime. When done always make sure to give the backside a good coat of rustproofing / undercoating to protect the metal . If you need details about panel adhesives & how to use them , do a search on this site , there have been a few discussions about this in the past . GOOD LUCK !!! Rick
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Old 10-09-2005, 03:51 AM
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When I read your post, I, like Rick, thought of the panel adhesives, since alot of people don't have access to a welder. The only problem with using them, other than access to both sides of the panel, is that you will need to clamp the pieces on until the adhesive dries. If you can do that, it would make the job easier, as the threat of warpage from welding is gone.

Aaron
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Old 10-09-2005, 08:56 AM
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been there, done that

if you dont weld them, you will end up with the outline [ circles ] of the holes visible when done when viewed at certain angles and lighting, even if you were to spot weld a metal strip behind the holes for backup and then fill them with filler the circles will show up, fiberglass behind the holes for backup will do the same thing. on my current LaSalle project I went to a fab shop that has punches [ punched out holes ] off their production line to use and insert into the holes. The trim holes in my doors and body are 3/8 dia, I got the correct gage and size. I use a uni-bit to put a little chamfer on the door skin to help with the welding and then grind flush. good luck with your project.
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Old 10-09-2005, 09:08 AM
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re filling holes

i removed all the trim on a 78 t-bird and filled in all the holes with jb weld. it took quite a bit, but i seen the car 2 years after i did it, the quarter panels filled with bondo were gone but the jb weld was still undetected.
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Old 10-09-2005, 09:42 AM
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Dana, here is when all my metal finishing, welding friends are going to jump me in the alley and take my Air Jordans.

Listen, first off, you are in California, that makes all the difference in the world to how this can be done (much less chance of rust). Secondly, (think about this guys), there have been cars, millions of cars repaired over the years where a slide hammer was used to pull a dent and then plastic filler was applied over the holes and it stayed there until the car was dead in a wrecking yard, no body the wiser. I have stripped MANY, MANY cars for restoration to find rows of holes filled with plastic filler, be it moulding holes or slide hammer holes. These holes were filled with regular old "bondo", no fiberglass, metal or what have you reinforced, just regular old plastic filler.

Is it "right", heck no. But it was "right" for the person who did it. An old tech instructor of mine would say "Now, I know none of you have done this, but you know someone who has".


Dana, if you MUST fill these holes without welding, this is how you could go about it. Grind the paint off to bare metal surrounding the hole, using a pick or ballpeen hammer tap in the edge of the hole so it looks like a reverse volcano. Just a little is all that is needed, don't hammer it in causing a big dent. Now, when you fill the hole and sand the plastic filler ("bondo") smooth there will be a little layer of filler surrounding the hole so the "sight line" that has been mentioned won't be there. The filler isn't going to "fall in" if this layer of filler isn't just hanging on the edge of the hole, it has some support around it.

This method should also be used if you were to use a panel bonding method with a patch on the back. You "could" use regular filler, but something like "Everglass" by Evercoat would give you better protection being it is a little more moisture resistant.

Now, let me ask what I should have to begin with..

1. How big are the holes
2. Where exactly are they?
3. What kind of car?

Brian
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Old 10-09-2005, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixguns
On my current LaSalle project I went to a fab shop that has punches [ punched out holes ] off their production line to use and insert into the holes. The trim holes in my doors and body are 3/8 dia, I got the correct gage and size. I use a uni-bit to put a little chamfer on the door skin to help with the welding and then grind flush. good luck with your project.
Six guns, that is one of the neatest tricks ever! I saw it in a Ron Covell basic metal working video. It was shown in the first five minutes of the video, I stopped the video and said to my wife, "I could take this $30.00 tape out of the VCR right now and toss it in the garbage, THAT trick is worth thousands".

For those who don't know what we are talking about, when you punch a hole in metal with a metal punch like the Roper-Whitney the metal it punches out has a little "hump" in the center were the die has a "center punch". Thus, this little piece of "scrap" is stretched up in the center. You then use a unibit to cut the hole in the body you are filling to make it the exact same size as the hole you punched to get the "scrap". You then put a dolly behind the hole and then set this little "scrap" plug into the hole laying it on the dolly. Hammer the plug "hump" in it flat and the darn thing "grows" and holds in the hole!!!

When using this trick I will then weld it with my Jewelers torch using .023 mig wire for filler rod and have a PERFECT repair.

Dana, that is the BEST way to do it. Though it may not be the "bestest" way for you.

You have a couple of different methods here, now is when you have to make a choice on how good you want to do it. Honestly, in most cases, after it is done no one would ever know how you did it.

Brian
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Old 10-09-2005, 10:02 AM
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I'd second what MARTINSR says about tapping the hole in ever so slightly. This will ensure that the filler is feathered out to a larger area and covers up the repair edge with a bit of filler. I would say that holes less than 3/16" or so can be filled without any bonding of metal discs. Just use something like Duraglass or Everglass for the first coat. I bet this kind of repair can be a lot more durable than some would give it credit for, especially if you can get behind the panel and seal up the back with some seam sealer and/or undercoating.
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