Filling pin holes - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 09:05 AM
cboy's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Finished
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atwater, CA
Age: 69
Posts: 3,915
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Filling pin holes

I'm soooooo close to having my primer straight and true but I've detected a couple of spots with pin holes. Up till now I've been using Evercoat Glazecoat to do my final filling of flaws and low spots, but with my primer now near perfect at 400 grit (will go 600 just before painting) I really hate to gob on more Glazecoat at this point because it means I'll have to reshoot another top coat of primer.

All that to ask...is it possible to fill these pin holes effectively by mixing a tiny batch of my urethane 2K primer (Dupon Nason) and applying it with a very small bondo applicator, straight edge (razor) or even a fine brush. My thinking here is that this might be easier to sand and being the same color, I then might not have to shoot another full application of primer.

Feasible or bad idea? Or should I just bite the bullet and go through an entire round of Glazecoat/sanding/and full primer spray application?

(BTW, I did do a search for filling pin holes...but found only one small side comment about using 2K primer as a filler.)

    Advertisement
__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 09:48 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,837
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
If your talking about the Glazecoat that comes in a tube and is air dry...I hate the stuff, it sands differently than primer or bondo. I would just mix up a small dab of filler and smear a thin layer into the pin holes. Then a light wet sanding and it's done.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 09:48 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Skokie, Il
Posts: 159
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Pinholes are bad, bro. Once rust hs pinholes it's almost guaranteed to come back again and again.

If you must fill them, you have to use something impervious to water. You might try POR-15 2 part epoxy filler, which cures hard as a rock and waterproof, or even (GASP!) POR-15 "spot putty", which is thick POR-15 in a tube. And definately do something about the back of the panel.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 10:12 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Skokie, Il
Posts: 159
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
If your talking about the Glazecoat that comes in a tube and is air dry...I hate the stuff, it sands differently than primer or bondo. I would just mix up a small dab of filler and smear a thin layer into the pin holes. Then a light wet sanding and it's done.

Vince

If you're talking about that red lacquer glaze in a tube, I agree; it's worthless.

However, in the Land of Rust, pinholes are a real red flag, oh Honorable Moderator, and if you do fill them, typical polyester fillers won't work. The rust will come back, and it will come back fast. Poly fillers absorb water, swell, and promote rust. Whatever you use better be impervious to water and swelling. I've done a few rustorations, and the epoxy filler is your friend.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 10:50 AM
prostreet6t9's Avatar
Differential/Driveline
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: oregon
Age: 51
Posts: 1,719
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 40 Times in 37 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Eddie D
Pinholes are bad, bro. Once rust hs pinholes it's almost guaranteed to come back again and again.

If you must fill them, you have to use something impervious to water. You might try POR-15 2 part epoxy filler, which cures hard as a rock and waterproof, or even (GASP!) POR-15 "spot putty", which is thick POR-15 in a tube. And definately do something about the back of the panel.
The OP may be speaking of pin holes in the filler or primer,and may not be rust pin holes.I'm in the process of shooting primer and block sanding a 68 Camaro now,I use the Evercoat Glaze that is a 2 part to fill the pin holes and it works great. Mix up a little,Quick swip over the hole,{just enough to fill the hole and not have a bunch all around it},Smooth it out. But I do still have 1 more coat of primer to spray.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 10:55 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Skokie, Il
Posts: 159
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreet6t9
The OP may be speaking of pin holes in the filler or primer,and may not be rust pin holes.

Got it. Those pin holes are a non event to me; once I get to that point I'm 99% done. The rust part is 98.5% of any restoration in this neck of the woods.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 11:20 AM
Bee4Me's Avatar
Problem Child,Hard Case
 

Last journal entry: Strangest job I've ever done
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ARK.
Age: 57
Posts: 1,773
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Any of the 2 part glazing compounds like Dolphin,Easy Sand,Metal Glaze,etc are what you want.
A quick swipe and minimal blocking but you will need to either do a light spot prime and block or a complete sealer coat before paint.Otherwise,you'll have ghosting thru your base.
I've found out the hard way,especally with 'glass that poly type fill primers just won't "go in the hole" on small pit's.Unless you just hammer the snot out of them,it just covers them over and when you block,Bingo,their back.
Another reason I like the dry guide powder.Mine are so small,I would likely not have even seen them but noticed several tiny black specks and after a closer inspection found them to be pit's and a lot more than I realized.
I've been fighting this glass hood scoop for awhile now "thinking" I'm "done" and then find more of these little bast.......
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 12:10 PM
cboy's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Finished
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atwater, CA
Age: 69
Posts: 3,915
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee4Me
...A quick swipe and minimal blocking but you will need to either do a light spot prime and block or a complete sealer coat before paint.Otherwise,you'll have ghosting thru your base.
Exactly Mike. That's why I asked about applying primer just to the pin holes. Then when you sand (assuming you don't create deep scratches or lower the area around hole by sanding) you could just shoot base right over the top without the extra primer coat and the block sanding of that final coat.

And yes, this is pinholes in the filler, not rust. It's all brand new sheet metal with filler applied for straightening the body panels. I only seemed to have created the pinholes in one small area of the roof...but I got a lot of them in that area. So I don't know what I did wrong when I did the filler work.

Also, for Vince, the Evercoat Glazecoat is a typical two part very fine filler...much like "icing". Typically used for final glaze, filling minor low spots, repairing tiny flaws etc. I know it will do a fair job of filling pins because I have used it for that on previous occasions. But it DOES require sanding and another coat of primer...so that's what I'm trying to avoid...another round of primer and blocking.

Anyhow, this morning I went out to the shop and embarked on some experimenting with the primer idea. Hopefully I can report back the outcome by tonight.
__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 12:24 PM
lets cut it up's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,467
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cboy
Exactly Mike. That's why I asked about applying primer just to the pin holes. Then when you sand (assuming you don't create deep scratches or lower the area around hole by sanding) you could just shoot base right over the top without the extra primer coat and the block sanding of that final coat.

And yes, this is pinholes in the filler, not rust. It's all brand new sheet metal with filler applied for straightening the body panels. I only seemed to have created the pinholes in one small area of the roof...but I got a lot of them in that area. So I don't know what I did wrong when I did the filler work.

Also, for Vince, the Evercoat Glazecoat is a typical two part very fine filler...much like "icing". Typically used for final glaze, filling minor low spots, repairing tiny flaws etc. I know it will do a fair job of filling pins because I have used it for that on previous occasions. But it DOES require sanding and another coat of primer...so that's what I'm trying to avoid...another round of primer and blocking.

Anyhow, this morning I went out to the shop and embarked on some experimenting with the primer idea. Hopefully I can report back the outcome by tonight.

cboy, your primer idea will work if the pin holes are small, I have done it many times to fill them. I sometimes have even used masking tape over the pinholes to keep the primer from running out if the pin holes are on the sides. just remember they have to be small pin holes. The bigger ones will need puttyed and reprimed for best results. JMO Tim
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 12:35 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Green Bay, WI
Age: 44
Posts: 2,073
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
I agree, use a 2k spot filler or glaze. Stuff should sand really easy if you don't gob it on. You can either use a spreader, or one of the 3m rubber wet or dry squeeges work well, to spread tight into the pinholes leaving little to sand.
Like mentioned, its best to spot prime over the filler, or hit the car with a sealer coat (but I like to wet sand sealer flat before paint also).
I wouldn't really mix up primer and fill them, because thats kind of abusing it, and primer can shrink. Not to say that when I've noticed pinholes when priming something in collision work, I haven't smeared the primer to get down into and fill the pinhole and sand smooth when sanding the primer, but think with your car your striving for a little better, and no reason to take a risk of having it come back and bite you later to save a little bit of time.
If your as close as you say you are, now may be a good time to go over with a fine tooth comb and try to catch everything, and if you find enough, put on a couple smooth coats of primer over the whole thing to final sand. A hand held flourcent light at the right angle and running over the panels top to bottom (maybe doesn't work as well if you have a shop thats lit up like the vegas strip, but helps in my dungeon) can really help you see every minor pinhole, ect, that you could miss just glancing at a panel thats been guidecoated and sanded.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 01:16 PM
NEW INTERIORS's Avatar
Believe in yourself !!!!!!
 

Last journal entry: 41 WILLYS FRAME
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: In My Shop..
Age: 49
Posts: 10,022
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,167
Thanked 508 Times in 378 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenseth17
I wouldn't really mix up primer and fill them, because thats kind of abusing it, and primer can shrink.
I think let's cut it up's did state that..


[/QUOTE]( just remember they have to be small pin holes. The bigger ones will need puttyed and reprimed for best results.) .[/QUOTE]


And let me say,That he has built,And painted some award winning show cars,That has stand up to the test of time...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 01:46 PM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,837
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
[QUOTE=Fast Eddie D]If you're talking about that red lacquer glaze in a tube, I agree; it's worthless.

However, in the Land of Rust, pinholes are a real red flag, oh Honorable Moderator, and if you do fill them, typical polyester fillers won't work. [QUOTE]

He's talking about pin holes in the 2K primer, not all the way down to bare metal, oh Honorable Member .

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 04:41 PM
Bee4Me's Avatar
Problem Child,Hard Case
 

Last journal entry: Strangest job I've ever done
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ARK.
Age: 57
Posts: 1,773
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Did you NOT read my post,
Primer and poly will not FILL pinholes!!!!!!
The air from the GUN will PUSH it back OUT and won't fill jack or simply "cover" them up.WHY? Because they are "thick" and you NEED to "push" them INTO the pit. Otherwise,your just wasting product.
I've used Epoxy,G2 Poly and STILL had micro pin holes BECAUSE the AIR pushed the "product" back OUT of the hole.
The ONLY way to fill them is with a glaze filler or like I did initally with the poly while still wet and took a spreader and worked it like glaze. Just didn't get them ALL and found out after blocking the "mess".Yeah, it WAS ugly but I got the majority of them FILLED with the poly after seeing all the tiny "volcanos" left after the inital epoxy coats.
I got the PROOF out in my shop NOW.
I got tired of this B.S.and glazed the whole friggin scoop tonight and FILLED every little one of these PITA little bums.
I'll block it down and epoxy once more for the time being and then,600 sand and paint and BE DONE with this little nightmare.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 06:19 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Muskegon Michigan
Posts: 21
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I fill pits in filler with primer all the time with no issues ..

Glass is a different issue ,,the pit is always larger then what you can see....(needs to be opened up)...

So , why epoxy ?....Is it the word "epoxy"...that has you sold ?

Last edited by action4478; 03-11-2009 at 06:26 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2009, 06:25 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Muskegon Michigan
Posts: 21
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Another reason I like the dry guide powder.Mine are so small,I would likely not have even seen them but noticed several tiny black specks and after a closer inspection found them to be pit's and a lot more than I realized.
Sounds like you may be doing something wrong...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
pin holes in weld after welding new metal in under rear window muskin Body - Exterior 23 06-19-2006 01:14 PM
Filling Holes Ron M Body - Exterior 2 09-11-2004 03:04 PM
Weld Pin Holes and Body Filler Ron M Body - Exterior 3 08-25-2004 02:15 PM
Filling holes john Body - Exterior 4 03-03-2003 08:00 PM
Filling up holes in body, including rust holes Mr.56Chevy Body - Exterior 5 12-12-2002 11:55 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:59 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.