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If your current master cylinder has a residual pressure valve installed in the rear port, you are good to go. It's easy to check, just take a paper clip, or other blunt small wire object and put it gently inside the port..if you feel something springy about 1/2" or so inside the port, there is an RPV...if you feel no resistance at all, and the wire will go in the port a ways, you should run a 10# rpv along with your adjustable proportioning valve.
You should run a metering valve in the front lines, a combination valve has one. It is not an absolute necessity, but it will make low speed stops a little easier on the front brakes. If you ever get on slippery surfaces (like you will hit ice in Hawaii),or sand on top of pavement, the fronts will lock up before the rears, in light pedal applications. I've done a few systems without them, but like the way they keep the fronts from skidding, so I have taken to using either a rear prop valve with a stand alone metering valve or a combination valve. A typical aftermarket combination valve usually does not have a 10 or 2# residual pressure valve. A disc/drum combination valve has a metering valve and a rear proportioning valve, as well as a shuttle valve to tell you if you lost pressure in one end of your system...These are stock on most all disc/drum systems. A disc/disc is the same rear prop valve and shuttle valve, but has no metering valve. Hope this helps. Later, mikey
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1. No.
2. depends on mc u are using. |
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