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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2011, 05:07 PM
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Lol Cl ,not to mention the cost of them.I'll bet my fresh 350 cost less then the coils,wires and plugs....
On my 383 I'll just be updating to electronic ignition,thats about as technically advanced as I can handle....

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2011, 04:56 AM
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Time Gets Away , Eh! 2002/2011 Cupla Yrs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
DAM ,did it again replied to an old thread from 02

While your going back to the future d b man can you throw your wisdom at this picture and tell me which is the "outlet" from this Ford pump. is it A or B.
I am going to fit an on/off heater valve which has a "flow direction arrow " stamped on it so I need to figure out which is which before i fit the valve to the firewall.
Cheers from downunda.
Al.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2011, 05:38 AM
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Just a guess but it looks like B is going in and A is out. is that for your stang?
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2011, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Mustang Al.

While your going back to the future d b man can you throw your wisdom at this picture and tell me which is the "outlet" from this Ford pump. is it A or B.
I am going to fit an on/off heater valve which has a "flow direction arrow " stamped on it so I need to figure out which is which before i fit the valve to the firewall.
Cheers from downunda.
Al.
Just a guess here , the outlet (to heater) is the fitting behind the thermostat housing, return could be either A or B and one of A or B needs to be plugged off ?.....bypass is internal (large hole next to thermo recess ) so only one return is needed....believe both A and B are on suction side of pump. Or at least I think I remember it that way. (CRS)
Kenny
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2011, 06:37 AM
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I think your right Ken,Its been a long time since I did any work on a ford it should be easy enough to find out though just fill it with water and turn the motor over...
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2011, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
I think your right Ken,Its been a long time since I did any work on a ford it should be easy enough to find out though just fill it with water and turn the motor over...
Yes as DB says!!....hook it all up except the heater, fill with water (out side off course!) and see which way it goes.....be my luck it would all go out the large bottom hose.....
Good Luck
Kenny
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2011, 04:07 PM
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Heater hoses

Hi DB and Ken. Thanks for the input.Yes this is the engine that came with the stang. Took me about three months to strip and rebuild the "new" engine. Been run for about two hours now in the temp. stand.
Disconnecting it while running will prove it i guess. I am guessing when the thermostat opens the coolant will flow towards the top of the radiator which means that the hose near the thermostat would be a return flow from B to A and C is for water jackets in block and manifold. Have to start it up again with a loose heater hose i think.
Its good that there are no leaks internally. Sure shakes the stand its in.
cheers from downunda
Al.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2011, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Mustang Al.
Hi DB and Ken. Thanks for the input.Yes this is the engine that came with the stang. Took me about three months to strip and rebuild the "new" engine. Been run for about two hours now in the temp. stand.
Disconnecting it while running will prove it i guess. I am guessing when the thermostat opens the coolant will flow towards the top of the radiator which means that the hose near the thermostat would be a return flow from B to A and C is for water jackets in block and manifold. Have to start it up again with a loose heater hose i think.
Its good that there are no leaks internally. Sure shakes the stand its in.
cheers from downunda
Al.
AL now that I see a pic of the set up ,it comes back to me (I think!),your hot water is going to come out of the block at "A" tru your heater core and back to the pump at "B" which is the suction side of the pump. It is made this way so that water will flow tru the heater core as soon as the motor starts running and in (theory ) it will get warm in the car sooner. The other hose "C" is a by-pass hose .It by-pass's the thermostat to in sure that water will flow tru the system in case the thermostat fails in the closed position. It does work but the car will run (way) hotter than normal. Supposed to allow you to drive the car to a place that you can get it fixed......maybe, I had a Fair lane that the thermo went bad and it got hot enough and built enough pressure that it split the bottom rad hose and dumped what little water that was in the system on the ground....that ended that.
About your stand, I can see a wheel in the lower left of your pic if you have wheels under all 4 corners it's going to shake, there is too much give in the bearings and rubber tires with the amount of torque that the motor puts out.
Good Luck
Kenny
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2011, 04:14 AM
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Under the pump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelby1
AL now that I see a pic of the set up ,it comes back to me (I think!),your hot water is going to come out of the block at "A" tru your heater core and back to the pump at "B" which is the suction side of the pump. It is made this way so that water will flow tru the heater core as soon as the motor starts running and in (theory ) it will get warm in the car sooner. The other hose "C" is a by-pass hose .It by-pass's the thermostat to in sure that water will flow tru the system in case the thermostat fails in the closed position. It does work but the car will run (way) hotter than normal. Supposed to allow you to drive the car to a place that you can get it fixed......maybe, I had a Fair lane that the thermo went bad and it got hot enough and built enough pressure that it split the bottom rad hose and dumped what little water that was in the system on the ground....that ended that.
About your stand, I can see a wheel in the lower left of your pic if you have wheels under all 4 corners it's going to shake, there is too much give in the bearings and rubber tires with the amount of torque that the motor puts out.
Good Luck
Kenny
Thanks Kenny. I get it now. Thats a good explanation. I have a cable operated heater valve out of a corolla which i have adapted to the mustang cable collector. (pic) The plastic valve has an arrow on it for flow direction. I can now fit it in the right direction. I have a new radiator with a hayden thermo fan. Seems to work well and i have an adjustable sensor to set when the engine goes on the road.
The engine on the frame needs hanging onto when revved. Quite some torque from this 8. It definitely wont take full throttle revs.on the stand.
I can recall a burst hose on my late mothers 62 Dodge Phoenix (imported new to Aus in 62) . The guy who bought it from her estate drove it after a hose burst and fried the original 318 Chrysler. (92,000miles)
Cheers from downunda.
Al.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2011, 06:17 AM
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Al I like the way you have your engine set up ,it is looking good,if you carry the same attention to detail tru to the rest of the car it will be a sharp looking and well built car. Good Luck and keep posting on your progress....take pic's ....lot's of them!
Kenny
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Old 02-18-2011, 02:02 PM
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The 323 is a nice powerplant, that fits into a small compartment. My 323 is designed around the factory 340 cam (.429/.444) since the stroke is the same. Perfect bubbly idle stampede with 44 degrees of overlap. Tears out to 6k rpms .

Get 051 heads 56cc heart chamber if you want to keep the factory lightweight adjustable SHAFT rocker arm setup.
Use Magnum heads with GM 3100IIV6 springs and retainers, and 2.2L umbrella valve seals if you DO NOT CARE ABOUT SHAFT ROCKERs.
Both heads have swirl tech.
Budget headers , Holley 600, and a Low rise single plane intake top it off.

Use GM's 4 PIN ignition module, e coil , and factory mopar hei distributor. No more MOPAR orange box and wire mess. Sparks as good as anything.

My 323 made 237 RWHP on dyno, in a 4DR 4SPD 3600lb Valiant. A OEM 6pack 340 same cam, probably less compression, auto made about 206.

It is kept on a wooden start stand with bellhousing and flywheel , that way it can be fired up.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2011, 03:51 PM
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6months to restore a mustang. i dont think so.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelby1
Al I like the way you have your engine set up ,it is looking good,if you carry the same attention to detail tru to the rest of the car it will be a sharp looking and well built car. Good Luck and keep posting on your progress....take pic's ....lot's of them!
Kenny
thanks for that Ken. Its taken two yrs so far. I thought it was going to take 6 months. My problem is i went back to bare metal with the body,(8 litres of paint stripper.) Got hold of a dvd "how to paint a car". I sprayed bikes before and a couple of second rate jobs on cars so this had to be the best i could do. Body turned out to have no rust (ex california car). only an empty .25 shell in the well of the passengers door when it was on the bench for stripping. I am gong to turn it into a key ring.
Cheers Ken
Al.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2011, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn
The 323 is a nice powerplant, that fits into a small compartment. My 323 is designed around the factory 340 cam (.429/.444) since the stroke is the same. Perfect bubbly idle stampede with 44 degrees of overlap. Tears out to 6k rpms .

Get 051 heads 56cc heart chamber if you want to keep the factory lightweight adjustable SHAFT rocker arm setup.
Use Magnum heads with GM 3100IIV6 springs and retainers, and 2.2L umbrella valve seals if you DO NOT CARE ABOUT SHAFT ROCKERs.
Both heads have swirl tech.
Budget headers , Holley 600, and a Low rise single plane intake top it off.

Use GM's 4 PIN ignition module, e coil , and factory mopar hei distributor. No more MOPAR orange box and wire mess. Sparks as good as anything.

My 323 made 237 RWHP on dyno, in a 4DR 4SPD 3600lb Valiant. A OEM 6pack 340 same cam, probably less compression, auto made about 206.

It is kept on a wooden start stand with bellhousing and flywheel , that way it can be fired up.
Looks like a nice piece of engine you have there with plenty of hp. My mother 's old dodge would have leapt out of its skin with that in it. You cant beat electronic ignition for high voltage at revs. 6000 rpm is pretty quick.
Cheers
Al.
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