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Old 02-01-2009, 08:38 PM
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After seeing the work that Rogers55 did on his garage floor and referring to his links to Wolverine Coatings, I decided to go with them vice Tenant, which is very similar in application process, near the same price, but uses one half the materials. I cleaned every thing out, swept the floor, used a leaf blower to blow it out and then used a wet or dry shop vacuum to get the floor as clean as possible. I then used a hooked wire on a broom handle to loosen up the garbage in the expansion joints and vacuumed them out. Next, I applied Sea Wash to remove any oils that may have dribbled onto the new concrete through the building processes. Then I rinsed for an hour or so and allowed to dry over night. Then I used Muratic Acid to etch the concrete. The first coverage was with 3 parts water and 1 part acid, but I was not happy with the results and did it again with 2 parts water and 1 part acid, which really did great. I then rinsed for about 2 hours and did a taste test to make sure it was clean enough. The heat was turned on the second day after rinsing so it was dry enough for the primer coat. It was to go on about 5 mils thick (about the thickness of a medium thick sheet of clear/black plastic). We had 6 gallons to cover 1400 sq ft so we used a notched trowel (3/32 inch) to do a rough spread and a 19inch roller to smooth it out. After 24 hours of drying, we then applied the top coat (color) and we used 12 gallons to cover the 1400 sq ft. This went on at about 18 mils thickness, using another notched trowel of 1/8th inch with more space between notches. Again the 19 inch roller was used for uniformity. 24 hours later, we put on the final clear coat (6 gallons, 6 mils) and we are ready to move in after 72 hours of cure time.

We learned a bit. First, my bud that has been helping with this project has been in the floor covering business for about 35-40 years and knows how to use a trowel!!! But he has not worked with epoxys that much and he took a smoke break about half way through the first 3 gallon batch was spread. He did not think the pot life was such a big deal, but with about a half gallon to go, it was heating up and becoming harder to spread. He though he would pour out a bunch and spread it real fast. What a mess!!! We had to get as much up as fast as we could but had to do a lot of smoothing over that area the next day. We lost almost a half gallon, but we had a bit of extra to spare. Lesson learned: pay attention to the pot life and keep the pedal to the metal when you start spreading this stuff!! The color coat went on very nicely but it really showed up the fiber glass hair that is mixed into the concrete for crack control. Had I known how it would show up, we would have given the floor a hair cut before and after the primer coat. The final clear coat covered more of it up, but there is still enough to make the finished product more skid proof. We rolled the final clear coat and we must have gotten it pretty close to the 5-6 mils since we used the last of it as we were backing out the door. We learned another lesson on this process at the very end. We had some dusty foot prints around the cardboard we were using for mixing the materials and my bud was cleaning these up as I was rolling the floor. He used MEK (an great epoxy solvent for clean up) and when I got there, it was slightly sticky and my foot prints are in that area. They will not be noticed but I know they are there. Any clean up of the surface should be done with a damp cloth, followed by a dry cloth!!!

First picture is cleaned out ready to start degreasing and pressure washing. Second picture is of etched and filled floor. Third is first run of primer coat. Fourth is Bud mixing the first top coat (color coat) and fifth is him troweling the top coat on.

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Name:	After Degreasing, Etching, Joint Filling and Start of Primer.jpg
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