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Old 01-02-2006, 02:20 PM
70 Chevelle SS 396
 
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firewall smoothing

My firewall has a lot of "ping & dings"- I want to clean it up a bit, and repaint it. The engine is out, and the front clip is off.

My question is- can I just sand it down, seal it, and use a little bondo or finishing putty , then prime and block to smooth it up? I didn't know if bondo would be the best bet for firewall applications- that's why I'm asking.

It wouldn't take much, just a thin coat in a couple of places, but I wouldn't want it to start cracking or show through down the road. I plan on painting it semi-gloss, or gloss black. Does that sound like it'll do the trick?
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Old 01-02-2006, 02:30 PM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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It won't hurt one single bit to put a properly applied plastic filler on the firewall (or any other part of the car for that matter).

Your plan sounds fine, go for it.

Brian
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Old 01-02-2006, 03:25 PM
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Thanks, man. That's all I needed to hear!
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Old 01-02-2006, 03:40 PM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Oh, sorry,there is one thing, you don't "seal" it prior to using a plastic filler.

How is the paint that is on there? If it is in real good shape you could "scratch" it up with some 180 and then use a polyester putty like Evercoats Metal Glaze if the ding is very small. Or you can sand the paint off where you are going to apply the filler. Or, sand down the whole thing and epoxy primer it, THEN apply filler over that.

All of these methods are acceptable, just different.

After that, prime the areas and block them. Then prime the whole thing and sand and paint.

Also, if you mean by "finishing putty" you mean a single component toothpaste tube style putty, scrap that idea, it is junk. You want to use a polyester putty like Metal Glaze.

Brian
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

“Basics of bondo types”

"Regular" polyester body filler, and polyester "putty" is basically the same thing. They are both, you guessed it "Polyester" based. Polyester is what fiberglass is made of. The fillers have talc and some other components that give it "body", that is the basic difference between fiberglass resin and polyester body fillers.
The Putties have a finer ground talc than "regular" filler. They cost MUCH more, but are well worth it for skim coats and minor repairs. Being they are polyester they use a hardener and CURE like fiberglass.
The old "spot putties" DO NOT use a hardener and are simply lacquer primer . They are JUNK and should not be used.

Some examples of these products are as follows.

“Reinforced” polyester fillers:
These can be aluminum filled body filler for metal surfaces. I is very hard to sand and not good for the finish work (needs a skim coat of a “reg” filler or polyester putty) but will fill much more per coat reg filler and has more corrosion resistance.
A Fiberglass reinforced filler is similar.

Examples are:
Evercoat’s “Metal-2-Metal”, “Everglass”, “Kitty Hair”, “Tiger Hair”
3M’s 05815 Short stand filler, 05813 Long strand filler.


"Regular" polyester body fillers:
Evercoats RAGE or "Lite weight" and others.
3M's Lightweight body filler #058001

Polyester putties:
Evercoat's "Polyester glazing putty", "Easy sand" and others.
3M's "Flowable finishing putty"#05824 or "Piranha"#05821 .

"Spot putty" (junk, not recommended) Usually found in a toothpaste tube looking container.
Evercoat's "Ever-glaze" #403
3M's "Acryl-green" red or blue #05960,05964,05966
Dupont’s 2286S, PPG’s DFL17

I personally recommend Evercoat products.
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Old 01-03-2006, 11:50 AM
70 Chevelle SS 396
 
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Hey- Thanks for the product advice.

Most of the dents are pretty small- If I can get to them from the inside I can probably dolly some of them out.

So, no "spot putty". Gotcha- Thanks for the help!
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