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Old 04-13-2010, 01:30 PM
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OK, gotcha, thanks. I spoke to a cylinder heads shop yesterday and he wondered what could have caused it, he suggested maybe a valve binding. However, I read if you don't de-burr the oiling hole in the pushrod cup, it can lead to cracking. Plus they look like older rockers to me. It's my only car so it's kind of a chore getting to the parts store but I will keep everyone updated.

-D

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Old 04-14-2010, 02:49 PM
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How straight do the push rods need to be? I rolled them over glass, and one will need replaced for sure. The other two roll pretty smoothly, but if I get eye-level with the glass, I can see a slight(hair thick) bend to them. Should I replace them?
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Old 04-14-2010, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forza1
How straight do the push rods need to be? I rolled them over glass, and one will need replaced for sure. The other two roll pretty smoothly, but if I get eye-level with the glass, I can see a slight(hair thick) bend to them. Should I replace them?
It would be worth some peace of mind knowing you have new straight ones. They are not that much $$$ and new ones will save you from having to do it again. If possible, go with the 3/8" diameter chrome moly pushrods.
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Old 04-15-2010, 03:06 AM
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Stock GM rockers and valve springs are not compatable with high lift cams.

Long slot style rockers are required. Replace all the push rods and all the rockers.

Valve spring compressed coil clearance at full lift and retainer/seal guide boss clearance at full lift must be verified.
First you need to verify the actual cam lobe lift of the cam that is in the motor. Don't assume the cam in the motor is the specs shown on the cam card. Measure the cam lobe lift off the push rod with a dial indicator. .320" The lifters must be inspected for wear.
The cam and lifters are probabily trashed now too.

I'll bet you will need a new cam+ lifters + long slot rockers+ pushrods+ correct springs+retainers and seals.

Do not use gasket sealer on the rocker cover gaskets. It is not nessessary and the sealer ends up stuck in the engine oil passages blocking oil flow.
Engine bearing damage, cam lifter wear and noise etc etc etc.

Who ever put this motor together is a hack.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 04-15-2010 at 03:12 AM.
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:33 PM
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wow man that looks pretty bad would definately affect compression. and no the valves will not fall into the engine if u take out the rockers and push rods cause they are held in by retainers that are held into a groove machined into the top of the stem held by the pressure of the spring. youd need to take the heads off in order to get the valves out. so dont worry about loosing the vaves into to engine. and the best way ive found to get the distributor lined up in the factory position for #1 is to get the engine to compression. and i always line up the mark on the balancer with the 0 mark on the scale. that is where the piston is all the way up in the cylinder. then i pull the distributor and line it up with the number one tower on the cap then turn it counterclockwise back just a little before #1 then drop it in the hole and twist it clockwise a little till the gear lines up then it will be lined with the correct tower. then i bump the starter to get the oil punp shaft lined up till the distributor falls down all the way then ur golden. after all that i normally get the engine back to tdc on #1 to double check the alignment. its never failed me. so give it a try. sorry about the wordiness of this but it takes alot to explain
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:38 PM
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but like every one else said it dont matter where the rotor ends up at #1 cause all u need to do is just change the locations of the wires. i just prefer to have #1 in the factory location it makes it easier to put the wires on
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