So I'm rebuilding the carb on my 66 caddy hearse. I'd be doing the 71 with the loud noise I posted about a couple weeks ago were the 66 not trapping the 71 in. I've been waiting almost a month for this rebuild kit to arrive from the carb doctor. I guess the first one they sent got lost in the mail or something... I know next to nothing about carbs. I figure if I don't try though, I wont learn anything.
- I've got this carb disassembled and cleaned. It's put back together in a general manner and I pretty much know how everything goes except for a couple of things attached to the throttle plate rods. That part is a little confusing but I'll figure it out. I have the manuals and I've seen some videos but none specific to this particular carb. My first question is basically what to use for the adjustments. I have heard people say they use drill bits. Is this accurate enough? I do not have any of the old adjustment tools. The kit came with a stupid little paper ruler but I can't see that helping me out much.
- One of the needle seats is stuck in there. I've tried to get it out, but the slot in it is all mangled. Does anyone have a trick for this? I have new seats, so I guess I could just yank on it to turn with pliers. I really wanted to try to avoid that though.
- This kit also came with some check balls that I have no idea where they go. I'm thinking this is a kit that covers several carbs, because I didn't see a check ball in mine when I took it apart. One of the check balls was actually stuck in the top of the new accelerator pump and it looks different than the other one. Like its aluminum almost.. It weighs about as much as air and is a different color. I'm thinking perhaps he put it in there by mistake but who knows?
- I also need some help with gasket orientation. This is this car's original carb. The bakelite plate broke when I took it off, and I could not find a replacement because it has two vacuum ports, not one. The only ones like it for sale only had one port. So I repaired the plate with high temperature JB Weld Putty. It worked great! There is a metal plate that went underneath the carb. I have seen lots of people saying this plate is necessary to warm the carb and also prevent the hot gasses from corroding the aluminum base. The paper gasket provided in the kit does not look the same as this gasket, but the original metal gasket looks somewhat warped and I am not sure if I can still use it. I'll find a picture here in a minute..
- There are two other gaskets which I assume go on either side of the bakelite plate. Although they too are paper and not the same material at all as the ones that were on there. In fact, the one that touches the intake appears to have little flecks of metal woven inside it. I could not find anything like this online to use as a replacement, and unfortunately this gasket was toast when I took it off. Any tips and insight about this process is greatly appreciated as I am essentially starting from scratch. Thanks!
- I've got this carb disassembled and cleaned. It's put back together in a general manner and I pretty much know how everything goes except for a couple of things attached to the throttle plate rods. That part is a little confusing but I'll figure it out. I have the manuals and I've seen some videos but none specific to this particular carb. My first question is basically what to use for the adjustments. I have heard people say they use drill bits. Is this accurate enough? I do not have any of the old adjustment tools. The kit came with a stupid little paper ruler but I can't see that helping me out much.
- One of the needle seats is stuck in there. I've tried to get it out, but the slot in it is all mangled. Does anyone have a trick for this? I have new seats, so I guess I could just yank on it to turn with pliers. I really wanted to try to avoid that though.
- This kit also came with some check balls that I have no idea where they go. I'm thinking this is a kit that covers several carbs, because I didn't see a check ball in mine when I took it apart. One of the check balls was actually stuck in the top of the new accelerator pump and it looks different than the other one. Like its aluminum almost.. It weighs about as much as air and is a different color. I'm thinking perhaps he put it in there by mistake but who knows?
- I also need some help with gasket orientation. This is this car's original carb. The bakelite plate broke when I took it off, and I could not find a replacement because it has two vacuum ports, not one. The only ones like it for sale only had one port. So I repaired the plate with high temperature JB Weld Putty. It worked great! There is a metal plate that went underneath the carb. I have seen lots of people saying this plate is necessary to warm the carb and also prevent the hot gasses from corroding the aluminum base. The paper gasket provided in the kit does not look the same as this gasket, but the original metal gasket looks somewhat warped and I am not sure if I can still use it. I'll find a picture here in a minute..
- There are two other gaskets which I assume go on either side of the bakelite plate. Although they too are paper and not the same material at all as the ones that were on there. In fact, the one that touches the intake appears to have little flecks of metal woven inside it. I could not find anything like this online to use as a replacement, and unfortunately this gasket was toast when I took it off. Any tips and insight about this process is greatly appreciated as I am essentially starting from scratch. Thanks!