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Old 10-10-2002, 02:49 PM
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Post First Drag Race Advice

I'm 16 and am gonna be in a run what you brung day at mid-michigan motorplex in stanton this saturday.
I'm "bringing" an 82 El Camino SS with:
350
Th350
Performer RPM Air-gap Manifold
Holley 650 Double Pumper
Headers w/ dual exhaust out-back
Not much else done to it that I know of (planning on building a 383 over winter).

What can I do to increase my E.T.?
Ice down manifold?
Air out of tires (how much pressure should be left)?
Run a higher octane fuel?

Should I shift it 1,2,drive?
If so what should I shift at (keep in mind this will be about the last time its run before completely rebuilding the engine)?

Anything else? What do you think my e.t. will be?

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Old 10-10-2002, 04:21 PM
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Leave it in drive and get some practice on a real tree somewhere, it's all in the launch and 60 ft times. Get that part right and you'll be the best you can be. Leave tuning the car to when your an expert on the track.
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Old 10-10-2002, 04:36 PM
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I agree with homeboy,
I think your car will run in the high 14 range,
but i don't know what kind of rear gears you have,
I know that a stock 350 with intake, headers, and a 4 brrl will do about that with very mild gearing. I would'nt mess with your tire pressure unless you are runnin' slicks, if you are running radials, leave the stock pressure in there.
I'm from Pontiac man, do you live in stanton,
I've gone to MMM for several years for events like the pure stock muscle car drags and stuff like that.
Keep on roddin'!~ <img src="graemlins/pimp.gif" border="0" alt="[pimp]" />
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Old 10-10-2002, 05:33 PM
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I live in Cedar Springs about 30 miles west of Stanton. I heard about this thru a teacher at my school none the less. Does MMM have a website?
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Old 10-10-2002, 05:45 PM
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If you're running on radials drive AROUND the water box. The track officials will yell at you if you don't. Water is for slicks, stay out of it!

And yeah, I agree with what else was said, the race can be won or lost right off the line.

Good luck and have fun!
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Old 10-10-2002, 05:53 PM
E.T. divided by $ spent= Speed
 
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I find running my rear tires(radials)about 10lbs low helps w/ traction.Also do a good burnout a long one at fairly low rpm(barly keep um spinnin).Then prestage and clean the plugs out a few times then stage.
Also take a few nights to practrice luanching on a backroad or something were theres no cops.And shift the car manually practice to find out were the cars power band is,shifting late ain't good.
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Old 10-10-2002, 06:44 PM
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go straight :p
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Old 10-10-2002, 07:12 PM
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I was planning to drive it like I stole it but then everyone told me that shifting past the optimum shift point (highest power) kills E.T.
?
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Old 10-10-2002, 07:31 PM
E.T. divided by $ spent= Speed
 
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ET killers are tire spin and late shifts.I allways shift manually.My car makes peak power at 4800rpm after that on a chart my power would be dropping off so then I would just be running useless rpm. Pretty much take it out find where it stopps pulling and shift about 200rpm befor that point.Its best to find your optimum shift points by expieramenting at the track and finding wahat lowers your ET.
When luanching try to luanch as hard as possible without alot of tire spin.Also preload your converter.Decking it off the light and boiling the hides to the eigth will only impress the guys who like smoke and your ET will Suck.hen I luanch my car I preload to about 1800-2000 then when I leave I give it enough gas to let out a small squell,then kinda quickly ease it to the carpet.Practice luanching each car is differant.The main idea is to leave as hard as possible with minumal tire spin.
At the tracka few weeks ago there was a guy with a Monte SS all built runnin high 14s cause he was spinnin to much,grabed alittle ran a 13:70 something and broke out this car should have been in the low 12s but he wasn't luanching good.
Pretty much go and have fun don't expect to much on your first trip to the track.Usually your times are slower than should be and R/T is slow etc.. it takes getting used to.I remember my first 1.200 light and 16:50sec pass boy was I pissed.
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Old 10-10-2002, 08:44 PM
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I would agree with everything except the tire thing. Most radial street tires, contrary to popular belief, will have better overall traction running a the rated pressure. By letting out air the center of the tire will usually get less traction and the tires will not work as well. Of course if they are overinflated the same will be true. The trick is inflating them properly(32 psi usually works well on rears) I used to do some street racing in my 13 second truck on the weekend. I tryed letting the air down and found no advantage. Another thing is at the track there is a nice patch of rubber layed down at the line, so you will be able to launch harder at the track than the street. You just have to have a feel for the car, and make it stay hooked. Have fun!

Chris
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Old 10-10-2002, 10:01 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by BigBlockBabe:
<strong>If you're running on radials drive AROUND the water box. The track officials will yell at you if you don't. Water is for slicks, stay out of it!

</strong><hr></blockquote>
i have no local track to run my car so i have no experiance, i would like to know is, does the water on radials do somthing to the track or is it just a waste of time.
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Old 10-11-2002, 07:26 AM
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They tread on radials will hold water and drag it forward making a water trail. It will cause you to spinout off the line. Then they have to come clean it up so the next guy doesnt have a problem. Radials dont need a high speed burnout like slicks, either. Just rotate them a couple of times to clean them off. As they get hot traction goes down. Slicks get sticky when they get hot. Most street rubber will not.

Chris
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Old 10-11-2002, 09:23 AM
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R yeh confused yet, Bunky

Does yer hed feel lak it's da midl uv a geometry final 'n' yer still in algebra prep math?

Sorry bjam2, the devil made me do it.

Drag racing is fun. Go have fun. New things, activities, experiences are fun. Go have fun.

You said you planned to drive it like you stole it?

Great plan, 'cause the first couple times at the tree you will have soooooooooo much on your mind just to keep from making a fool of yourself you won't be able to keep the rest of this info right up front. Let it shift itself. You've worked and beat on this thing so it's as right as you can make.

Trust yourself, everything works well now and will at the big moment. Just drive straight.


When you come back, fill us in. You're gonna have one hell of a day!!!

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Old 10-11-2002, 10:28 AM
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Pressure release on a radial can be a help if you know how much to remove as with anything.

The way to test this is to release some pressure and do a short burn out and inspect the black mark left by the tire(s).

If it is dark on the sides of the black line(s) left on the pavement and light in the center then you need more pressure. If it is light on the sides and dark in the middle then you need less pressure.

If you get a consistant shade of black across the entire width of the line then you have the optimum pressure to put the most rubber to the pavement.

Hope this helps. If you need assistance with predicting you ET and speed before going to the track, visit our website and email me some specs.

www.pchotrod.com
pchotrod@hotmail.com
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Old 10-11-2002, 10:02 PM
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AHHHHHHHHH
MY CAR IS IN DRIVE AND I HAVE MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE AND THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THE BRAKE PEDAL GOES DOWN PRACTICALLY TO THE FLOOR AND THE BRAKE LIGHT COMES ON!!!!

The fluid is pretty low and I'm pretty sure it's leaking near the front driverside.
Front Disc/Rear Drum

AHHHH what do I do?
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