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Old 04-28-2014, 10:18 AM
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First engine build. 383? 355? Want 350-400hp. What do you do?

Okay so... here's the the deal.

I got this motor for free. From my boss at work.

It's a 2 bolt main 010 block. It has (had?) 882 heads on it, which from my understanding are pretty crappy.

I want to budget like $2,000 for this. I am in no hurry to complete it. The car it is going in has a running drivetrain and is fine, it's just... slow. I will be putting aside side income and savings to fund it, so it won't be one of those deals where I purchase a whole laundry list of parts. I am okay with buying used/quality parts if it takes longer but saves me money, and I am not afraid to assemble it all myself.

It has an aluminum edelbrock performer intake on it, and I have completely disassembled it:



So here's what I found:

It's from 1974. I assume it came from a truck or something. 2 bolt mains. Cylinder walls are clean - no scoring or abnormalities. Caliper measures them all out at 4", so it's never been bored.

The crank and bearings were all in great shape. Nothing abnormal, discolored, messed up, etc. It had a double roller timing chain on it, so maybe it has been rebuilt. I haven't looked at what the cam was/is, but it looked good, too.

So what would you do with $2k and 350-400hp aspirations? Am I nuts? Am I way off-base? Is machine work going to cost me an arm and a leg?

Help!

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Old 04-28-2014, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stingroo View Post
Okay so... here's the the deal.

I got this motor for free. From my boss at work.

It's a 2 bolt main 010 block. It has (had?) 882 heads on it, which from my understanding are pretty crappy.

I want to budget like $2,000 for this. I am in no hurry to complete it. The car it is going in has a running drivetrain and is fine, it's just... slow. I will be putting aside side income and savings to fund it, so it won't be one of those deals where I purchase a whole laundry list of parts. I am okay with buying used/quality parts if it takes longer but saves me money, and I am not afraid to assemble it all myself.

It has an aluminum edelbrock performer intake on it, and I have completely disassembled it:



So here's what I found:

It's from 1974. I assume it came from a truck or something. 2 bolt mains. Cylinder walls are clean - no scoring or abnormalities. Caliper measures them all out at 4", so it's never been bored.

The crank and bearings were all in great shape. Nothing abnormal, discolored, messed up, etc. It had a double roller timing chain on it, so maybe it has been rebuilt. I haven't looked at what the cam was/is, but it looked good, too.

So what would you do with $2k and 350-400hp aspirations? Am I nuts? Am I way off-base? Is machine work going to cost me an arm and a leg?

Help!
For your HP goals,a 355 would get the job done.However,either way,depending on wear & how much machine work needs to be done,you are looking @ $1,000 on machine work.You could rebuild your short block using the 350 rotating assembly,assuming it's in good shape, & then get a set of Assault heads w/ a nice cam & hit your HP goals easily.For the cost of building the 882's to get you there,you can pay for the Assaults & have a lot better head.Maybe even for less money.You're prolly looking @ $3,000 minimum for a budget 383.
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:39 AM
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First thing would be to get the crank checked out. If the crank can be cleaned up then a 355 would be ideal for budget. If the crank needs replaced then start looking at a 383. If your just building a 355 balancing isn't necessary unless you plan on constant high revs so you can save a few hundred bucks there.

Even though you got the engine free I would still look around for a complete vortec engine. You'll have a factory roller block with everything for a roller cam and if your lucky you could end up with a good set of vortec heads. A vortec headed 355 can hit 350 hp easy.

I think your budget seems fair.

Keep a close eye on quench, compression ratio, and piston pin height.
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:53 AM
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Yeah, all the stuff I've seen vortec engine wise is crazy money (in my opinion), and LKQ pulls them all out before they hit the yards here in FL, it seems.

People want like $800-1k for one they pulled from a truck.

I dunno. Seems high.

I guess I'll get the crank inspected and go from there.
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stingroo View Post
Okay so... here's the the deal.

I got this motor for free. From my boss at work.

It's a 2 bolt main 010 block. It has (had?) 882 heads on it, which from my understanding are pretty crappy.

I want to budget like $2,000 for this. I am in no hurry to complete it. The car it is going in has a running drivetrain and is fine, it's just... slow. I will be putting aside side income and savings to fund it, so it won't be one of those deals where I purchase a whole laundry list of parts. I am okay with buying used/quality parts if it takes longer but saves me money, and I am not afraid to assemble it all myself.

It has an aluminum edelbrock performer intake on it, and I have completely disassembled it:



So here's what I found:

It's from 1974. I assume it came from a truck or something. 2 bolt mains. Cylinder walls are clean - no scoring or abnormalities. Caliper measures them all out at 4", so it's never been bored.

The crank and bearings were all in great shape. Nothing abnormal, discolored, messed up, etc. It had a double roller timing chain on it, so maybe it has been rebuilt. I haven't looked at what the cam was/is, but it looked good, too.

So what would you do with $2k and 350-400hp aspirations? Am I nuts? Am I way off-base? Is machine work going to cost me an arm and a leg?

Help!
Going into what? If a Vega I go a winding 355, if a pick up I go with hauling 383.

Bogie
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:27 PM
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i agree a 350 would get you where you want to be relatively easy..

if the bores are clean, no scoring, and no ridge at the top of the cylinder, I vote skip out on the machine work, just clean it real good and be sure to clean the oil galleys. Buy some flat top pistons, just make sure they are 1.56 compression height (100), aftermarket aluminum heads (600ish fully assembled), a 220ish duration cam (200), performer rpm or similar dual plane high rise intake (200), 1 5/8 long tube headers (200), and score a 650-750 carb off craigslist (150-200).

that tallies about 1500, but of course youll have to buy all new gaskets and head/intake bolts, etc..
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbogie View Post
Going into what? If a Vega I go a winding 355, if a pick up I go with hauling 383.

Bogie
Going into this: Meet "the wagon" | Auto WaffleAuto Waffle

Truck-like, but not quite?

Similar weight. haha
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Stingroo View Post
Yeah, all the stuff I've seen vortec engine wise is crazy money (in my opinion), and LKQ pulls them all out before they hit the yards here in FL, it seems.

People want like $800-1k for one they pulled from a truck.

I dunno. Seems high.

I guess I'll get the crank inspected and go from there.
A brand new L31 Vortec engine is only $2,000.
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:46 PM
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i agree a 350 would get you where you want to be relatively easy..

if the bores are clean, no scoring, and no ridge at the top of the cylinder, I vote skip out on the machine work, just clean it real good and be sure to clean the oil galleys. Buy some flat top pistons, just make sure they are 1.56 compression height (100), aftermarket aluminum heads (600ish fully assembled), a 220ish duration cam (200), performer rpm or similar dual plane high rise intake (200), 1 5/8 long tube headers (200), and score a 650-750 carb off craigslist (150-200).

that tallies about 1500, but of course youll have to buy all new gaskets and head/intake bolts, etc..
I like this idea.

I was thinking summit vortec heads and their stage 1 intake. Makes the head/intake combo about $700, then I'd just need rockers and pushrods, I think.
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:26 PM
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Don't skip out on the machine work. If you want the thing to last and perform well then get it all checked out. I doubt all the cylinders are round. You might just need a cylinder hone job but I would go get it checked out

The summit vortec are not a true vortec head. They are made to be a bolt on replacement and that's it. They just aimed for all the bolt holes to line up. If you see one of the heads in person and not a picture you can see the raised runner is just an inch or so into the intake runner, then necks down. It's like they just enlarge the beginning of the runner to somewhat match up to a vortec manifold. If you buy new vortec heads stay with the Chevrolet performance heads.

Garbage in = garbage out
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:28 PM
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Don't skip out on the machine work. If you want the thing to last and perform well then get it all checked out. I doubt all the cylinders are round. You might just need a cylinder hone job but I would go get it checked out

The summit vortec are not a true vortec head. They are made to be a bolt on replacement and that's it. They just aimed for all the bolt holes to line up. If you see one of the heads in person and not a picture you can see the raised runner is just an inch or so into the intake runner, then necks down. It's like they just enlarge the beginning of the runner to somewhat match up to a vortec manifold. If you buy new vortec heads stay with the Chevrolet performance heads.

Garbage in = garbage out
Valid point you make.

Wonder what it would cost to get a set of junkyard heads rebuilt/checked out. LKQ memorial day half price sale is coming soon....
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:30 PM
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Check into these https://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-...ter/sd8060arpm
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:37 PM
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I wouldn't go Carby Gen-1 SBC...Id go LTx or LSx for your car specifically BUT Brother I have so much respect for what you've been through. Im sorry you lost your Pops; Im sure hes really proud of you for fighting through all these problems. Welcome to the Asylum, you're in good hands.
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:40 PM
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I keep seeing the Scoggin Dickey heads, but never saw that whole kit. That's pretty sweet...
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:42 PM
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I wouldn't go Carby Gen-1 SBC...Id go LTx or LSx for your car specifically BUT Brother I have so much respect for what you've been through. Im sorry you lost your Pops; Im sure hes really proud of you for fighting through all these problems. Welcome to the Asylum, you're in good hands.
Thanks, man.

I'd skip over LTx entirely, because I could have just bought a whole car with one of those in it if I wanted (and if I knew those existed when I picked this thing up when I was 19 LOL).

LSx stuff is appealing, but I feel like this would be easier, and enough to "get my feet wet" so to speak. I know an LSx would make more power and be a better driver, but it's not something I'm ready to tackle at this point.

Now, had one of those fallen into my lap... that'd be a different story.


UPDATE: I found a carb in my parts stash. It's a 4bbl Holley, spread bore. Where would the numbers be to identify this thing?
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