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Old 09-14-2010, 05:04 AM
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first engine pull, could use advice

hello all
have tried everyting i can think of and the compression wont come up on my 1950 3/4 ton chevys 283 and oil in the cylinders. time for a rebuild and i need a little advice on how to pull it. its non original and mounted almost flush with the fire wall. real hard to get to the bolts on the tranny so iwas going to pull em both together.

i think it will make putting it back in easier as i dont have a tran jack.

any ad vice on how to do this or if its a good idea would be appreciated . the tranny is the original four speed with granny stick shift. also how do you get the stick out?

thhanks alot

aubrey

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Old 09-14-2010, 07:47 AM
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pull'n that motor

first before u pull anything.. mark all wiring on both sides so not to make a mistake when its time to replace it. gonna be a little messy but i'd power wash everything in the eng compartment. go to parts store and get a tranny plug. pull the rad. it would be nice if u have a levelor when pulling it.. its a crank so u can tilt the eng/tranny to remove without relocating the pulling chain. just take your time and watch whats going on, don't force it, it'll come out..
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:26 AM
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Before you disassemble anything take a bunch of pictures. This will aide in re assembly. WORK SAFELY.
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Old 09-14-2010, 09:15 AM
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First engine I took out was an in-line 6 from a 1954 Chev pick-up. I used 3 spruce trees to make a tripod and a block and tackle. Spruce trees can still work, but a chain hoist or come-alongs would be better.

Taking the engine and transmission out together would need something more stable than a tripod, so look for a barn, garage, etc with hefty rafters, or rent/borrow an engine crane, but make sure it's on level ground.

With the tranny, an engine leveler may be of help:



The tranny only had 4 bolts connecting it to the bellhousing. That may be the easiest place to seperate things instead of between the bellhousing and the engine block.

No idea on the stick shift, other than remove the shift boot and see what you can disconnect.
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Old 09-19-2010, 07:57 AM
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thanks alot for the advice. went well. found 3 broken rings so it was definitely time to rebuild. busy getting the engine compartment clean before it all goes back in.
appreciate the help.

aubrey
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Old 09-19-2010, 11:20 AM
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Aubrey, rings usually don't just break- most often, they're broken at disassembly. What rings broke- top, middle? Were the rings on different pistons?

You might want to give some thought on why the rings broke- if it was from turning the engine over w/rusted cylinders, or removing the pistons w/a pronounced top ridge that wasn't first removed, then no problem.

But if it was due to detonation or end butting from not enough end gap, you will not want to repeat the process w/the rebuilt engine. So determine as best you can if the cause is going to come back to haunt you or not.

Take a close look at the ring "lands" (where the rings reside in the piston) to see if they're cracked or in any way damaged that you can see. Check the ends of the rings to see if they're shiny, as if they were butted together.

Timing and carburetion would be the two most likely causes. So be sure to go through the carb and ignition system if there's no known cause for the rings to have broken.

Good luck.
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