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First Rookie Paint Job Finished - Pic's

3K views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  BondoKing 
#1 ·
Thought I'd post a few pics of my first paint job. The paint is PPG DBC (1965 Chrysler bright red) with PPG Global 894 clear coat. The car is a 1964 Dodge Polara that we plan on racing and driving. Couldn't have done it without the help from this forum. Thanks guys! Some Lessons Learned:
  • Build a GOOD "homemade" booth. Take the time to do it right and you will be much happier.
  • You can never have enough lighting!
  • Don't get in a hurry. Go into a painting project with the frame of mind that it will take as long as it takes to get it done right.
  • Set everything up in advance and go thru a "dry run" before you are ready to shoot. THis helps with things like hose layout, accessability, lighting, etc.
  • Buy a lint free painting suit! Lint sucks and your clothes are the biggest supplier.
  • Spray for bugs (cover your project). Those small litttle critters WILL find a way into your booth.
  • Don't spray at night or in the evening (bugs love those lights)
  • Listen to the guys on this forum! They know there stuff and will share it with you if you ask nicely!
 

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#5 ·
Looks great so far. Nice to see another Mopar getting back on the pavement.

Wedge or HEMI??

And people ask why I have 9-8' light fixtures hanging in a 20X30 area of my shop. :confused: :mwink:

Even then,it's still not enough sometimes.

Note to self:
Install retractable roof with next shop...or,
Possiable new use for the wife's greenhouse. :boxing:

Uhhh.. It's a new species of those honey, I got them ESPECIALLY for YOU...
Their Kandy Rose's and Lillies,and Iris's and (running for life now) :welcome:
 
#6 ·
Thanks! Plan is to put a wedge back in (slightly larger than 426 :mwink: , even though the valve covers will still say 426....) I'll beef up the 727 and rear, add super stock springs, discs up front, max wedge exhaust, etc... I want it to run solidly in the 10.75 area with the ability to get to the mid 10's (hence the 8 point roll bar). with the exception of adding a Ramcharger hood scoop everything is being restored to appear as original. The Morrison roll bar is actually completely removable and has side and rear swingouts to get the wife and kids in the car. Now all I have to do is assemble it - where did I put those acorn nuts????
 
#7 ·
Great job. I have a soft spot in my heart for '64 Polaras. Have a big block 4 speed one owner (I'm the second owner) sitting in storage right now.

Good luck with yours.
 
#8 ·
Early B's said:
Thanks! Plan is to put a wedge back in (slightly larger than 426 :mwink: , even though the valve covers will still say 426....) I'll beef up the 727 and rear, add super stock springs, discs up front, max wedge exhaust, etc... I want it to run solidly in the 10.75 area with the ability to get to the mid 10's (hence the 8 point roll bar). with the exception of adding a Ramcharger hood scoop everything is being restored to appear as original. The Morrison roll bar is actually completely removable and has side and rear swingouts to get the wife and kids in the car. Now all I have to do is assemble it - where did I put those acorn nuts????
Kick a-- And take names..........good work......
 
#10 ·
Early B's said:
Thanks! Plan is to put a wedge back in (slightly larger than 426 :mwink: , even though the valve covers will still say 426....) I'll beef up the 727 and rear, add super stock springs, discs up front, max wedge exhaust, etc... I want it to run solidly in the 10.75 area with the ability to get to the mid 10's (hence the 8 point roll bar). with the exception of adding a Ramcharger hood scoop everything is being restored to appear as original. The Morrison roll bar is actually completely removable and has side and rear swingouts to get the wife and kids in the car. Now all I have to do is assemble it - where did I put those acorn nuts????
Looks good, I love the Global 894-good stuff! How did you make the cage removable? I need to plan a cage for my 71 Chevelle when I get rolling on the project. My car will only see 11's at best but I don't want the body all twisted up after all the bodywork, hate the thoughts of welding it in. Just curious how you bolted it together. Bob
 
#11 ·
NHRA allows unibody cars to have the cage bolted to the floor instead of welded to the frame. (the installation of frame connectors - which is a good idea anyway for rigidity - does not constitute a frame) So all "8 points" of where the bar meets the floor can be unbolted. The side bars and rear seat bar have removable clevis/pin attachments so they can be pulled out as well (NHRA allowed). Which leaves only the 2 rear brace to main hoop bars. These joints are connected (near the main hoop) via a tight fitting internal chromoly 4" bar with rossette welds. To remove just die grind out the rossette welds and pull the main hoop away from the rear braces. After some buffing and painting this connection is virtually invisable and I don't plan on bringing it to the attention of the tech inspector :mwink: To be honest I think NHRA needs to address the need to allow clevis attachments at these points on full bodied cars. It really hate to see people have to cut up these old classics to put a stinkin roll bar in. Hell, I got sick just having to drill holes in the floor and trunk!
 
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