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  #151 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2013, 01:23 PM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
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That's right, apply the guide coat let it dry and then start sanding....but, you have a new panel, it should be straight...guide coat is to find high and low spots in a panel that you either repair or have reprimed to make sure it's straight....you shouldn't need guide coat on the new E-coated panel...just sand it carefully by the palm of your hand.

Ray

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  #152 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 11:23 AM
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Today I started calling the body shops to ask for their suppliers or whether I could purchase from them. And without fail all of them were nothing but rude. One person even got offended that I asked for his supplier. No one helped me on that end.

Then what I did was call PPG itself and see if they sold the paint. And realized all this time my search should have been a little different. Then I searched for PPG distributors and found a couple. I found one that is open on Saturday so I can go to that one. Struck some good luck there. I asked what the minimum size for paint and reducers they sell. For paint the minimum is 1/2 pint and he said they sell reducers in quarts and gallons so that is another plus. I am going to plan on going there this Saturday. Any tips besides the ones you already told me?
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  #153 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 11:48 AM
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I'm glad you finally got some good luck. There would be a few body shops no matter where you go that aren't really a big fan of the "do it yourselfer"...but that's life, being rude never does much good...now if your involved in a serious collision where you need a body shop...remember who was rude and don't go there. That's exactly what rude should get them.

Nope, I think your pretty much good to go...are the fender's and bumper all done? Keep turning the primer, I'll go through the list and make sure I haven't forgotten anything and if something comes up, I'll post it.

Ray
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  #154 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 12:05 PM
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Bumper and right fender are done. I will finish the last fender today. Then I will upload some pictures so you can judge that. I have been flipping the primer as you instructed.

I'm hoping to get the paint by Saturday and finish everything by Sunday if possible. The end is near!
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  #155 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 12:21 PM
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Perfect...and the fun part is just beginning...LOL

Ray
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  #156 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2013, 10:20 PM
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I have almost finished the fender. I am going kind of slow. Only the upper part of the fender is left. Here is the link for the pictures so you can see and let me know if anything looks wrong. Or if it seems to be okay:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wc0ud70mlcevxg7/aL9iZaCHTw

I mostly sanded by hand. Just for a little bit I tried the block again and the block just does not seem to work out for me. It made those scratches/lines again near the curves. I feel as if I get more flexibility around curved areas with my hand. No problem though, since the scratches were not that much or that evident I went over the areas again with my hand and were able to get them out. Also I try hard not to but just on edges you can see some bare metal. I don't know exactly how to avoid that. When I am sanding near edges I try to be careful but some spot just ends up being over sanded. All in all I think I did okay, but as always you can be the judge.

And excuse the messy work area lol
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  #157 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2013, 04:44 AM
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Your doing fine...those areas that are bare metal now, we can fix then up...not to worry.

The reason that the block isn't working to well for you is because E coat is fairly hard substrate. The block will work fine when you sand the Epoxy....and it will sand faster.

Ray
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  #158 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2013, 09:23 AM
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Okay thanks.

So today I will definitely finish the fender and then all the sanding part should be done. Also do I need to scuff the inside of this fender as well with the grey scotch brite pad?

I was wondering if you could walk me through the priming/painting process that I will be doing this weekend just to see if I have everything prepared.
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  #159 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2013, 09:56 AM
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Yes. scuff the inside of the fenders, use your scotch brite pad...it only needs to roughed up.

Before we go through the priming process...have you decided on using adhesion promoter and did you get a price on reducer from the PPG dealer? Sometimes 1 quart of reducer is almost as much as a gallon from SPI...just wondering?

What your going to need to do before you prime is to wipe down all the panels with Wax and grease remover, then tack them with a tack rag. The mix ratio on your primer is 1 part primer, 1 part activator. Add one component to the other, stir for a couple of minutes and let it sit for 1/2 hour. This is called induction time.

After you have allowed for induction time, pour the primer into the pot of the paint gun through a paint strainer. Plug your paint gun (with the regulator with gauge attached to the gun) into the air hose (make sure that you have the right coupler, your boss with the compressor should have several, but be sure).

Now we need some paper on the wall, a piece 36 inches X 48 inches is about the size we need to set up your paint gun. You will notice that when you pill the trigger of your gun, you will initially get a burst of air, set your gauge to about 25 pounds with the triger in the half pulled position just before primer comes out of the gun, pull a little harder and you will get primer coming out of the gun. Hold the gun 5 to 6 inches away from the paper on the wall...what you want is a pattern that looks like a stretched out "0". This pattern should be about 8 inches wide, if it's not, turn your fan adjustment until you get this size of pattern, with the same amount of material coming out through out the pattern. If your getting more material coming out in the middle turn your fluid adjustment in to reduce the amount of material. If your getting heavy amounts of material, on the top and the bottom, add more material.

These are just the basics...I will give you more information as we get closer...if you like, you could try adjusting your gun with thinner now to get the hang of it but, with primer being heavier, it would need to be adjusted for primer as well.

As I said, I will give you more information...but there is no harm in trying it now...it will help you understand for the future.

Any questions just ask.

Ray
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  #160 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2013, 11:34 AM
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Yes I decided that I will use the adhesion promoter, however I was able to find it much cheaper at an auto store and it was the same brand/size as the one at SW. That is a good idea, I will call them today to check up the price for the quart of the reducer. If it is cheaper or almost the same as the gallon at SPI do you think I should then get the adhesion promoter from them also and return the one I purchased?

Thank you for explaining the process. I understand most of it, just a few questions.

1) When I am spraying to get the desired pattern am I constantly spraying or is it more of a pulsing action (holding the trigger for a few seconds and then letting go)?
2) The paper I need for setting up the spray gun, can it be normal paper or is it something specially for painting?
3) If I test with lacquer thinner first would it still be easy to tell the amount of material going on the paper and such things since it is clear? Also would I need to clean the gun afterwards for the primer?
4) I was wondering the reasoning behind hanging panels for painting. I remember Kelly mentioning that it is good to have them in the position they are to be on the car for painting. Am I hanging them so both sides are accessible for painting or is there some other reason as well?
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  #161 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2013, 11:51 AM
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Update on reducer prices:

He said there are different kinds and asked which one I was looking for. I obviously had no clue so I just asked him for the highest and the lowest price. He said it $20/quart for DBC reducer and $23/quart for DVU reducer. I don't what 'DBC' or 'DVU' mean.

When I went to SW they had two type 'Dimensions' and 'Ultra'. Ultra was the better kind with variances and Dimensions was the cheaper kind with no variances. Does PPG have something like that also?
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  #162 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2013, 12:09 PM
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Your going to want the DBC reducer and base coat, apparently in the US they still have DBU..in Canada we haven't had it for years, old technology apparently and I'm not familiar with it...PPG's equivalent line to Dimension would be Omni, stay away from that one, no variances.

Reducer, in either a medium or slow kind. SPI's is $37.65 for a gallon of medium and $46.65 for a gallon of slow. I'm sure that the adhesion promoter will be fine.

1) Hold the trigger for a few seconds and let go.
2) The ideal paper is masking poly coated masking paper...it won't bleed through...maybe ask the guy at the body shop that you went to for a 4 foot piece of 36 inch masking paper.
3) Lacquer thinner is what you use to clean the gun...you can leave it in the gun if you like. You should still be able to see the pattern...but remember the pattern will need to be adjusted for primer, base coat and clear coat.
4) Two reasons, the color will be better and for painting both sides.

Ray
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  #163 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2013, 04:36 PM
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Ray, here is the link to the video clip you wanted. I will try to get the others up soon and a few better ones in the future. Hope it helps

Kelly of Carolina Customs - YouTube

Kelly
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  #164 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2013, 05:19 PM
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Thanks Kelly

To the guy that's gonna paint his car...I should really get to know your name. Kelly just made a quick video of how to apply clear, the principals for primer and base coat are the same...It would be a good idea to watch this many times...it will help you.

Ray
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  #165 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2013, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Thanks Kelly

To the guy that's gonna paint his car...I should really get to know your name. Kelly just made a quick video of how to apply clear, the principals for primer and base coat are the same...It would be a good idea to watch this many times...it will help you.

Ray
Just for reference, here is a shot of the end result after a little buffing. I painted the quarter and blended onto the rear door and bumper with the base, then clear the rear door, quarter panel, and rear bumper. It took me about 1 hour total sanding and buffing to get everything finished up.


[IMG]http://i268.photobucket.com/albums
/jj26/FordFan5606/039_zpsf4fbe015.jpg[/IMG]


Here is what we started with


Last edited by carolinacustoms; 10-02-2013 at 06:53 PM.
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