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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2013, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino View Post
Perfect explanation! I learned the hard way. Most 'cheaper' guns require more air pressure. My compressor cranks out 7.6 cfm at 40psi and it runs contnually even shooting panel at a time
Thank You, and apparently the compressor companies have finally been taken to task on their embellishments...choosing a compressor is a very important decision and anyone and everyone should be informed before they make a major purchase such as a compressor.

Ray

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2013, 08:36 PM
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I used one of these to touch up a Mazda. 2 stage paint.
The two shop estimates were about $1800. each.
It turned out vey nice. $60 for materials and paint.

Adjustable Detail Spray Gun
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2013, 09:00 PM
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At $60.00 you must have had material on hand, know somebody in the trade that cut you a deal...or you stole the product and paid $60.00 for the gun...Just joking (about the steeling part...the rest, well, you got a deal somewhere). The prices you paid in all probability won't reflect what OP will be paying. A pint of Silver will eat the $60.00 fairly quickly...let alone the clear coat....Right?

Ray
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:07 PM
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Before I receive the panels and proceed with what you told me one thing I wanted to clarify. Before the sanding in the cleaning process, I just wanted some clarification. Do I need to apply wax and grease remover or one of the two would suffice?
Also it it okay to leave the panels after they have been sanded or the painting process needs to start immediately?
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:27 PM
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I'm so sorry, I should have explained myself better...Wax and Grease remover is a product...one product, that is called "Wax and Grease" remover. It's a very common product in the trade and I wasn't thinking that you might feel that it was 2 products.

The panels can be stored after they have been sanded...If I store a piece that is prepped for paint for any period of time, I'd go over the panel before painting with that "Gray Scotch Brite" pad that I mentioned earlier, just to remove any thing that may have landed on the panel...also, just before painting, the panel needs to be cleaned with Wax and Grease remover again...Keeping surfaces clean is of utmost importance, a clean panel directly reflects the quality of the finish.

Again, I apologize and can see why you would wonder which product to use...I will remember this for future reference.

Ray
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:31 PM
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Oh haha! no that is no problem. It is only because this is my first time doing anything related to painting panels.

Once again I appreciate the explanation and clarifications. Once I receive the panels I will go ahead and do the steps mentioned up till now. Then I will reply for further instructions. I'll post some pics also just for the heck of it.
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:47 PM
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Pictures are always a good idea, and keep asking questions...sometimes what comes second nature to people that do things everyday needs a deeper explanation...so keep asking, I'll try to cover all the bases.

Best Regards

Ray
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:12 PM
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my first gun was a harbor freight gun with a 2.0 tip. They were great primer guns but they stopped making them with that tip.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:32 PM
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So I received my first panel today.

I also went out and bought the following (also shown in the image)
1. 600 wet sanding paper
2. Scotch brite pads
3. Sanding block
4. Auto cloths (microfier)
5. Lacquer thiner
6. Wax and grease remover

I put some lacquer thinner on a cloth and paper towels and rubbed it on the inside and it seemed to rub off. Picture shows this.
So that means it is not an e-coat?
If from this point I want to strip the metal and re coat it, how do I go about doing this?

Also I am not sure if you can see images. If not they should be uploaded on my profile also. It only gives me the options of inserting links. So let me know if it doesn't work and I can upload through dropbox or something. Thanks
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 06:59 PM
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I'm sorry to hear that it wasn't an E-Coated part...I assume that you don't have a DA (Duel Action Sander)...if you don't, you could either sand it off by hand using 80 grit sand paper or, get a chemical stripper...or do the forbidden, wash it off using lacquer thinner...my first question would be, how fast did the thinner take off the coating? The reason I ask is that if the thinner takes it off but, takes it off slowly, sanding the panel or stripping the panel with a chemical stripper may be faster...if the thinner does take off the coating quick enough and that is the method you choose, wear gloves and even a respirator, the fumes can make you nauseous. If the thinner method is your method of choice, after the material has been removed the raw metal must be cleaned with Wax and Grease remover several times to ensure that any residue from the thinner is removed...then the metal must be sanded with 80 grit paper to rough it up for the proper Epoxy Primer. If you would like to purchase a DA, they can be purchased quite cheaply at Harbor Freight...probably around the $30.00 mark...complete with a backing pad for 6 inch sand paper. If this is the route you take, let me know and I will inform you on how to properly strip a panel using 80 grit on the DA. Chemical stripper is toxic, messy and usually would cost as much or more than purchasing a DA...if this was my panel, I would consider getting the sander...then when your done, you have another tool that may come in handy in the future.

There may be some that will tell you that they have top coated the existing type of coating that you have and never had a problem...my answer to that is in my 30 plus years of doing this, I have seen many problems when a substrate such as what you have on the panel is not removed and a base coat/clear coat paint is applied.

After you have the panel stripped, you will need some Epoxy Primer. The best product when it comes to Epoxy Primer that I have used is SPI's Epoxy Primer. The product is available in Gray (which will help when painting the panel silver), the part number is 6610-4 for the primer, the activator is 6700-4. The cost is $33.75 each for the primer and activator and shipping is free. This product provides excellent adhesion, great rust protection, can be top coated within 7 days after applying without sanding...but...can be sanded as well, which, for an Epoxy Primer is a bonus. It does sand very well for an Epoxy. This product will give you the cushion between the metal and the paint that I mentioned earlier.

There website is

Home

If you decide to get this product, again, let me know and I will walk you through the proper way to mix it and apply it. Also, before and if you intend to order this product, again, let me know. There may be other products that they have that you may need and could be ordered at the same time.

Hope this helps and sorry that the panel wasn't an E-coated panel. Very often when an individual does the type of repair that your doing, they begin to understand why a body shop charges as much as they do...LOL

Ray
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:04 PM
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I'm sorry but the pictures aren't showing up on my computer...can you see them on yours?

ray
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:25 PM
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Haha I will def have a deeper appreciation for body shops after all this.

The thinner seems to take it off decently fast but I think I will take the route of the DA. That way I can have it for use later on and I will not be committing the forbidden lol. Would the sander however be compatible with the compressor. I checked online and the sander is rated for 4 cfm @ 90 psi and the compressor is 4.6 cfm @ 90 psi. Seems to be in the range to me ....

As for primers I think I will go with your suggestion since my knowledge about primers is close to 0. I do want to ask that with one purchase of each, the primer and the activator, how long do they last. As in, are they enough for a small panel or they can cover more?

I can run by harbor freight to pick up the sander tomorrow.

I can't see them in the post but if I right click on them and click the option saying open in a new tab/window I can see them.
Try this link. It should open a site and you can download the folder that says body work.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4tivtsfzth3ekez/PGbuwqiVAQ

Last edited by aykhan90; 09-19-2013 at 07:34 PM.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 07:54 PM
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The DA route is the the prudent choice...as mentioned, you will have something to show for your money after your panels are painted. Seeing that your compressor has a low CFM rating what you will need to do is not run the sander at maximum air pressure. The sander should have a valve to control air pressure,if not, the trigger could be used as a throttle for your sander and you can control the speed making your compressor compatible to the sander...it will just take longer.

With respect to how long the primer would last...they can do more than one panel...you will have 2 sprayable quarts of Epoxy primer...when your other panel/panels come in (what are you all planning on painting?) depending on size, we will mix what we need, seal the cans and only apply what is mixed...I'm sure you will have primer left over. The self life of the product is...well they have a factory recommended self life...it's longer than what they recommend, the manufacturer is being on the safe side. I've base coat that was properly sealed and 10 years later it sprayed well.

Before you order the primer, we should consider what you are going to use for clear coat. I always purchase mine by the gallon...you don't need a gallon and I'm not sure if they make sell their clear in quarts...I'll call for you in the AM and find out...if the SPI clear is the clear you want to use, again, I've used many clears, SPI's product is as good or better than any out there and priced much better.

I will check to see if I can load your pictures...so far, no luck.

Ray
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 08:00 PM
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I'm looking at your pictures...try really hard to take of some of the coating with thinner...like right down to bare metal...you don't have much coating on your towel...it may be an E-coat...here's hoping.

Ray
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:08 PM
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Okay so I put some thinner on paper towels again.

Rubbed it as hard as I can for a good 30-45 seconds. And I think you are right. Click on the link to see the image of the towel. I could not get to bare metal.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4tivtsfzth3ekez/PGbuwqiVAQ

If you are right then sorry for making you waste all that explanation though at least now I know how to proceed if it was not an e coat. Thanks
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