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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 08:19 PM
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Your panel is an E-Coated panel. This is not a waste of time...you have other panel/panels coming in...when they do you no know what to look for. If the other panel/panels are E-Coated as well, I will split the difference of the cost of the primer, activator and the sander with you...you owe me roughly $50.00...LOL.

It's never a waste of time of time if something is learned...now lets wait for the other parts to come in and take it from there.

Glad to see that the parts are E-coated...that will save you time and money...actually as soon as the pictures loaded, the panel looked as though it was a E-coated panel...I wanted you to test it to be sure.

Ray

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 08:28 PM
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Haha for all that I have learnt so far I would say the $50 is a bargain!!

That is great news. Bumper should come in tomorrow and the left fender is coming in on Tuesday. When the other parts come in I will do the same and then proceed. Again thanks!

One question for the bumper. I believe the bumper is plastic unlike the fenders. Do I test it for an e-coat the same way?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 08:49 PM
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Bumper's won't be E-coated... we can test the substrate differently we we see the the bumper, it will be a sand paper test along with a solvent test...Epoxy primer is still a good primer for plastics...so don't send me the $50.00 yet...LOL

Ray
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 08:52 PM
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If I may make a few suggestions (if they were mentioned earlier, I apologize)

On the compressor, be sure you drain the tank right before you start blowing off the panel or spraying anything primer, paint, clear, anything. I also recommend at the very least, get a few of the filters that go on the gun to catch any water or oil that may be getting through the line. A few dollars spent now will save you a ton of headaches later. A good filter regulator combo with a water separator would be ideal, but I understand you are just getting started and those are probably not purchases you want to make initially.

For the DA, if you haven't already bought one, check the electric one HF has. It is variable speed and works nice for the price. I have one that I use more than my air powered one for stripping panels and roughing in body filler etc. Heres a link: 6" Variable Speed Dual Action Polisher

It is actually marketed as a polisher, but it use it for sanding and it works great. It also does a good job of applying polishes and swirl mark removers too, just be sure to blow it off and clean off any sanding dust/dirt that may get on it when sanding.

Otherwise, follow Ray's advice and you will be happy with the results.

Kelly
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:13 PM
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Thank you Kelly for the advice. I will keep these things in mind and will try to follow your advice if hopefully my budget allows

As for the bumper I will upload the pic tomorrow when I get it.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carolinacustoms View Post
If I may make a few suggestions (if they were mentioned earlier, I apologize)

On the compressor, be sure you drain the tank right before you start blowing off the panel or spraying anything primer, paint, clear, anything. I also recommend at the very least, get a few of the filters that go on the gun to catch any water or oil that may be getting through the line. A few dollars spent now will save you a ton of headaches later. A good filter regulator combo with a water separator would be ideal, but I understand you are just getting started and those are probably not purchases you want to make initially.

For the DA, if you haven't already bought one, check the electric one HF has. It is variable speed and works nice for the price. I have one that I use more than my air powered one for stripping panels and roughing in body filler etc. Heres a link: 6" Variable Speed Dual Action Polisher

It is actually marketed as a polisher, but it use it for sanding and it works great. It also does a good job of applying polishes and swirl mark removers too, just be sure to blow it off and clean off any sanding dust/dirt that may get on it when sanding.

Otherwise, follow Ray's advice and you will be happy with the results.

Kelly
Thanks Kelly, the filter was mentioned earlier but I don't think we really talked about it...or the draining of the compressor, all good advice. The electric variable speed dual action polisher/sander would be perfect...he can keep the $50.00 add $10.00 more and he has a polisher/sander...LOL..maybe not the best for feathering but he has new panels and shouldn't need to feather anything on them...the polisher will come in handy after.

Good post Kelly.

Ray
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2013, 09:31 PM
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Also, I forgot to mention on the HF stuff, they usually have 20% off coupons in car type magazines. If you could find one, it would save you the $10 on the sander . I was actually surprised by the results I got from it. If you are interested they also have a regulator/water trap for around $25.

Kelly
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Old 09-20-2013, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carolinacustoms View Post
Also, I forgot to mention on the HF stuff, they usually have 20% off coupons in car type magazines. If you could find one, it would save you the $10 on the sander . I was actually surprised by the results I got from it. If you are interested they also have a regulator/water trap for around $25.

Kelly
Thanks for the coupon info. I think HF would be a good viable option to purchase the regulator/water trap from.

And Ray I got the bumper today. Click on the link and you will see the bumper picture added.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4tivtsfzth3ekez/PGbuwqiVAQ

So how would I proceed with testing the substrate on the bumper?
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2013, 05:20 PM
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Thank you for the picture...my first question is...is the bumper raw plastic, the picture looks as though it is but it's hard to tell from the picture? Does it have any texture on it...such as a molded pebbled look? If your not sure if it's raw plastic or primer, take a piece of sand paper and sand in an inconspicuous spot...like the inside of the bumper...if there is any kind of powdering or dust showing up on your sand paper (sand it dry) it is a primered bumper...if not, it's raw plastic.

If it's raw plastic (which I think it is) the biggest problem is adhesion...and more products must be purchased...sorry my friend...I don't make up the rules, I just try to pass on the proper procedures...LOL

Let me know and we will move forward.

Ray
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Old 09-20-2013, 05:42 PM
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Okay so I did as you instructed. Once again I took some pictures since they seem to be helpful for the both of us, you can click on the link.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4tivtsfzth3ekez/PGbuwqiVAQ

I am not sure if I sanded too hard but I didn't want to repeat what happened with the fender. You can see the results of the pictures.

One of the pictures shows my thumb with a little black stuff on it. Is not the clearest picture. It seemed as though very minute amounts of dust did show. However, I am not exactly positive if it was because I sanded too hard. I sanded another spot with not as much force and very small amount of dust showed. I will say that the amount of dust showing on the paper or my hand was not so much that I could give you a 100% confident yes.

As for the texture of the panel. The outside seems to be very smooth but the inside has somewhat of a grainy texture. Let me know what you think or whether you need to be sand again more gently..
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2013, 05:49 PM
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Also I had asked the seller prior to purchase whether the bumper was primered or not and he informed me that according to the catalog the bumper comes primered, in case that matter.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2013, 06:38 PM
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And the other problem I have is that my computer is freezing up more often tonight than a naked Eskimo in January above the Arctic Circle...LOL...I can't open your photo's.

The manufacturer suggests that the bumper has primer applied. The texture on the inside of the bumper I'm not worried about...it's the visible outside that we need to concern ourselves with.

Regardless, there is still a proper way to paint this bumper and if it's got primer on it or not, I would recommend moving forward with the proper way. To prep this bumper, having it clean is of utmost importance...if it doesn't have primer on it, the mold release must be removed...if it does have primer on it, the quality of the primer is always in question and I would recommend the Gray Epoxy from SPI. Again, this will give you that cushion between your existing substrate and the paint your going to put on top.

You have Gray Scotch Brite pads (red, which is a bit coarser should also be considered for your bumper) ..Now, in order to clean and prep the bumper, it needs to be cleaned. You can use dish soap and warm water (dawn is an excellent choice of dish soap for this application) Get a bucket with warm water, squirt some dish soap in it and take your Gray Scotch Brite pad and start cleaning the bumper (the Gray Scotch Brite will also act as an abrasive and sand the bumper while you are cleaning it. Go over every square inch of the bumper...don't miss an edge (especially an edge) corner crock or cranny...After it has been thoroughly cleaned and scuffed, rinse the bumper several times with warm water, dry the bumper completely and wash it Wax and Grease remover. If there are any spots on the bumper that appear as though they have not been scuffed, scuff them again with the Scotch Brite pad until the outer surface has completely lost any of the original look.

After this has been completed, we can apply the Epoxy Primer...this procedure will take some time, as will ordering and receiving the Epoxy Primer...and I do strongly recommend the SPI Epoxy...it will stick to plastic like poop on a blanket and give you that substrate needed.

Give me a few minutes and I will try and jump start my computer again so that I can see your pictures...I'll post again shortly.
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:10 PM
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Haha I sympathize with you because computer freezing is one of the most annoying things. Though your description puts it at a whole different level lol

I understand the whole procedure that you described. I have green scotch brite pads. If red are better I can return the green for the red that is not really any inconvenience. As for scuffing I should just apply enough pressure for the molding to come off correct?

Another question I have is when I am using the wax and grease remover. I should apply it with one lint free towel and remove it with another. Is this method correct?

Also if the primer and the activator are going to take some time to ship, should I go ahead and order the ones you suggested?

And if the prime sticks like poop I need to further proof .... lol
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Let's start at the beginning, an 07 Sonata will be base clear paint from the factory. Don't try and paint it in single stage, being that it's a silver, single stage will look dull and drab beside base clear (let alone that there aren't any variants in color formulation in single stage).
And single stage silver is not for the novice painter. You will get streaks and blotches, as you must wet it enough to shine, while avoiding the streaks and blotches.

Quote:
The difference between wet and dry paper is what it sounds like. Dry sand paper can only be used dry, wet sand paper can be used wet or dry and is more aggressive than dry paper...that's why the difference in grits used...400 dry versus the more aggressive 600 wet. 600 wet is a bit messier but does a nicer job, last longer because the water acts as a lubricant and cleans the paper while sanding and the sanding sludge cleans off the panels easily.
For a high metallic light color, (silver) I prefer 600 dry and 800 wet.

Quote:
One thing to remember when sanding, if your not using a block (a block is a piece of equipment used to ensure that a panel stays straight or gets straighter when sanding primer) is to use the palm of your hand and not your fingers, If you use your fingers, chances are lines in the form of your fingers will show up in your paint (yes, it's that fussy).
Especially in light metallic colors. and will still be there after the clear has been sanded flat.

Quote:
If your going to do the thinner test on your panel, check the inside of the panel, not the outside. It's not a good idea to get lacquer thinner on anything that you will eventually be painting.

Ray
I've heard that and allways wondered why.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2013, 07:22 PM
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Unreal...I had a post written and it kicked me out...very frustrating.

I'll make this quick as i don't know how much time I have tonight with my computer acting like a stubborn child.

We have discussed how to prepare the bumper for primer, do you have any questions?

I did contact SPI, the do sell their Universal Clear in quarts (That is the only clear I use now...it is excellent and priced more than competitively)

If this is the direction you wish to go...and you can't go wrong with these products, here are the part # & prices.

Universal Clear Non VOC Compliant

Clear Coat 4000-4 $35.50
Hardner 4003-4 $35.40

Universal Clear VOC Compliant

Clear Coat 4100-4 $35.50
Hardner 4103-4 $35.40

Gray Epoxy Primer

Primer 6610-4 $33.75
Activator 6700-4 $33.75

Now, don't let the VOC Compliant thing scare you, just let the kind folks at SPI know which State you in and they will get you the product that is legal for your area.

This may sound like a heavy or expensive bill, but, when you compare what Economy products cost from any major manufacturer, these prices are a bargain...not only that but, when you call SPI, they won't talk down to you and actually appreciate your business.

Again, if this is the direction you choose to go, give them a call on Monday and providing they have a distributor in your area, you could have the product by Tuesday...you have a bit of work ahead of you regardless and we are waiting on another fender to come in as well and we don't know what kind of primer is covering it.

If you have any questions, just ask, I'll be happy to help where I can....I hope this post gets posted...LOL

Ray
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