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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2013, 07:22 PM
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Oh just my two pennies, on the air compressor/ paint gun thing in the OP. You can get by with a cheaper gun, If you have a good compressor, (one that will carry the required CFM)
And the more expensive air compressor, will pay for it's self in it's usefulness in other things than just running a paintgun.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2013, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by st3gamefarm View Post
And single stage silver is not for the novice painter. You will get streaks and blotches, as you must wet it enough to shine, while avoiding the streaks and blotches.


For a high metallic light color, (silver) I prefer 600 dry and 800 wet.


Especially in light metallic colors. and will still be there after the clear has been sanded flat.



I've heard that and allways wondered why.
Because lacquer thinners have residues that they leave behind and today it's never known what's in the thinner, I have even seen Virgin thinner cause problems...gunwash, forget it..that stuff on a good day will leave streaks on paint where you wiped it of...that's why after I clean my paint gun, I run an ounce of reducer through it and wipe the inside of the pot (When I used pots) with reducer.

Ray
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2013, 07:31 PM
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On bumper covers, primed or not, I usually start with wax and grease remover. Then sand with 600 grit wet, then scotchbrite as I blow it dry, to help loosen up any sanding residue, and catch every nook and cranny.
A coat of Bulldog, (just to be sure), and a pass of DP.
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Because lacquer thinners have residues that they leave behind and today it's never known what's in the thinner, I have even seen Virgin thinner cause problems...gunwash, forget it..that stuff on a good day will leave streaks on paint where you wiped it of...that's why after I clean my paint gun, I run an ounce of reducer through it and wipe the inside of the pot (When I used pots) with reducer.

Ray
Makin' more sense to me now. Laquer thinner has gone downhill in the past 40 or so years.
I've got a barrel of the stuff, and it's useless for anything but gun wash. It's actually a yellow green color.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2013, 07:37 PM
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So far I understand all of the prep method. Question about the scotch brite pads. I actually have green pads. I can replace them with red if red is better. Also am I cleaning with wax and grease remover before and after scuffing or just after?

As for the products you mentioned to purchase: I would only need to purchase one, Non VOC or VOC, depending on which is legal based off SPI's recommendation. Is that correct?

I will give them a call on Monday for all of the materials. And in the meantime I will prep all the materials needed for the pre priming phase.

Thanks for all the advice Ray and st3gamefarm
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:58 PM
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If you have Green Scotch Brite...that would probably be more the kitchen variety (just kidding) but seriously if you purchase Scotch Brite from an automotive paint supplier, they come in 3 basic colors white...real fine, Gray...fine, and Red...fairly aggressive...if you replace the Green...getting either a Gray or Red in the automotive refinish variety will do the job for you...Red is aggressive and if we are applying 2 coats of Epoxy Primer, the primer will cover the sand scratches.

Yes, all you would need to purchase is one of the Clears, either the VOC compliant Universal Clear Coat (which is a great Product...that's what I use on the vehicles that some customers pay big dollars for) or the regular Universal Clear Coat.

Your more than welcome and I'm happy to help. I will be working tomorrow, hopefully the computer in the shop is more user friendly than this demonic beast I have in the house...LOL...I will check from time to time to see if you have any questions.

St3gamefarm made the point that metallic's are difficult, they can be, not to worry, we will over come any problem you run up against.

Ray
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Old 09-20-2013, 08:10 PM
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Okay sounds good. I will get the red ones. And everything else! I will keep you updated.

Hopefully your beast of a computer gets tamed!
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Old 09-20-2013, 08:21 PM
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LOL...I just showed it my whip and chair and it does seem to have better manors now...LOL

Ray
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2013, 10:40 AM
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Haha that is the right choice of tools for taming any beast!

So I am going to start in a few hours or so. Before I start I had a few questions:

1. Do I clean the bumper with lacquer and grease before I scuff it?
2. For the fender, do I need to use the fine scuffing pad for the edges?
3. When I am sanding the fender do I also use warm water with the 600 grit or normal tap water is fine?
4. Also for sanding the fender how much pressure should I apply? Just a slight amount?

Hope your days started off good. Thanks!
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:59 AM
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Start by wiping the bumper and fender down with Wax and Grease remover...not lacquer thinner.

Yes, use the fine scuffing pad for edges on the fender and any hard to get at area of the both the fender and the bumper.

Warm water will help the wet sand paper. Warm water will keep the paper more pliable and clean any sanding crap from the paper and by doing that make it cut faster and smoother.

Your last question is an excellent question. Where possible, use a block with your 600 grit paper and apply no pressure, let the paper do the work. Also, if you can, use a guide coat, a guide coat can be some type of aerosol primer of a different color, lightly sprayed over top of the panel...allow this to dry and start sanding. What the guide coat will do is as you sand, the product that you just lightly dusted on will get sanded away, telling you that the area you have sanded as been thoroughly sanded...when using this method and a block, it will also tell you if the panel has any high or low spots...if there are any high or low spots, let me know and we can address them as we move forward. But, again, no pressure, just let the paper do the work. Also, a block is not necessary on the bumper...it's rubber and we want the surface to be cleaned and opened up to accept the Epoxy primer.

When using a block or even hand sanding, sand in a cross wise motion...///// then about every 5 to 10 strokes, change the direction...\\\\\ this will do several things. It will speed up the sanding process and it will also ensure that you are not sanding flat spots into the panel.

I hope this information helps, I'm sure your going to have more questions, keep asking.

Ray
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2013, 11:12 AM
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And remember, if you hand sand, do that, use the palm of your hand, not your fingers...if you should use your fingers, they'd call it finger sanding...actually they do call it finger sanding sanding when you can see the outline of your fingers after the panel has been painted....we don't want that.

Ray
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:55 AM
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A Link.

You are getting some great assistance here.

Here is a link I have bookmarked.....good info.

How to Flat-Paint a Project Car - Hot Rod Magazine

This is the product I used, for better or worse.

http://www.tat-co.com/product-files/...-english-1.pdf

Check the gun pressures on the attachment
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2013, 07:45 PM
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Okay so the sanding of the fender is done.

I did not purchase the guide coat mostly out of laziness of not wanting to go and buy it. Which was a big mistake. It was hard to distinguish which areas were sanded thoroughly and which were not because of the water. Regardless I sanded the best I could.

After the first go I saw that I still had a few spots left so I tried to go over them again.
There are some spots, mostly near the edges and where the curves are, that I believe over sanded because the metal is exposed on those spots.

Also you said that if you do with finger you can see those streaks. Though I used a sanding block I believe in places I angled it incorrectly due to which I got those lines.

Overall I would say that I am not fully satisfied with my performance but it was my first time and I learnt a lot. I know not to do certain things for the next time. And next time I will def use the guide coat.

I will repost and upload a pic so you can judge it.
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:01 PM
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Not a problem, this is to be expected...I can tell by what you posted, you made the same mistake that most do...you put pressure on the block and you sanded in a straight line...that's what's going to give you that "finger" sanding look. Trust me, this is actually a good thing, as you said, you will learn so as not to do it next time...And there isn't anything here that can't be fixed. When you get to the nest fender, try some guide coat, a White, Yellow or light Gray would be perfect...even buy a $4.00 can of aerosol lacquer primer...it drys fast, your going to sand it off anyway, it'll last long, your just dusting it on...and it will work.

Think of this as a learning experience, you will get better at it and when your done, your going to be able to tell your friends that you repaired the car yourself...that's always worth something, knowing that you have another ability.

Ray
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:56 PM
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https://db.tt/ChRLqqV2
Here is the link for the pics. I am uploading from my phone so if you are not able to see let me know and I will upload again.

As you can see there are a lot of lines. There are still some parts that are not sanded. How do you suggest I proceed?

You are right though. This is a great learning experience and saying that I fixed it myself is a good feeling.
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