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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2013, 10:19 PM
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I can't get the pictures to load, but I will offer this bit of advice that may help you when sanding. Apply just enough pressure to the block to hold it to the panel, not very much at all. When sanding, try to imagine an "X" on the panel and sand at angles. Sand this way / for a while and then, sand this way \ for a while and keep switching between the two angles. That will help avoid creating lines and will also keep curved surfaces curved and prevents forming little ridges on the curved top of the fenders and other areas. If you are going to be wet sanding, I would recommend getting a squeege (sp?). You can buy several different types. I have one that came from my paint jobber that I gave in the $25 range, but I found some at "dollar tree" for $1 that work just as well, they just don't last an extremely long time, usually trash one per car, but for $1......... The squeege will let you periodically dry the panel quickly to see what you have done and what needs to be done to make sure you are getting an even surface.

Bulk Scrub Buddies Window Squeegees, 10" at DollarTree.com

I don't know if dollar tree is nationwide or not?


Kelly

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2013, 10:22 PM
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I can't load the pictures...I'm in the house again with that computer that likes to act up...I'll be in the shop in the morning, the computer works better there...and I'll give you a game plan. Don't worry, unless you sanded through the metal and made a hole we can easily fix whatever didn't seem to go to well today....and the next fender will be easier...I promise.

Ray
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2013, 10:49 PM
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Kelly's advice is sound...just like we discussed in post # 55, the reason you are getting the sanding lines is, as I mentioned, the sanding motion was in a straight line and I know it's difficult not to put pressure on the sand paper, but the results will be much smoother and straighter when you let the sand paper do the work.

Thanks Kelly, I appreciate the affirmation...even if it's subliminal, reinforcement of a proper procedure often helps when someone is learning...now when he sands the next fender...I bet he's going to be thinking that it must be true because 2 guys said it.

Ray
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2013, 12:07 AM
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Yeah I think it is because I uploaded through a mobile device. Here is the link again. This should work fine.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4tivtsfzth3ekez/PGbuwqiVAQ

Again the scratches will be obvious. I feel like the areas I had trouble with were where there were curves. The very outsides where the panel is mostly flat seemed to have gone good.

Thanks for the advice it is always helpful to hear again. Take a look at he pictures and let me know what you think and how to proceed. If you need additional pictures just let me know. Once again thanks a lot!
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2013, 07:43 AM
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I still can't load the pictures...I get the site and a Gray outline of how many pictures there are but no pictures.

Well, it might be a good idea to remedy the situation. Do you have any coarse paper, like 80 grit or 180 grit. You mentioned that you had some bare metal spots showing through, I can't see how large or how small they are but, it's never a good idea to paint over bare metal. What we can do is scuff the fender by hand (the palm of your ) with 180 grit...don't worry about the sanding lines from yesterday. You have never painted before and your going to need some practice, you have 2 sprayable quarts of Epoxy Primer coming and we will apply 2 medium wet coats of Epoxy Primer over the fender. This will give you some practice, it will help in removing the sanding lines and the fender gets more protection.

What you could do today (or when ever) is take your Gray Scotch Brite pad and scuff the inside of the fender....(yes it will be getting a little bit of color as well).

When you go to sand the next fender take every precaution to sand as Kelly described and how I mentioned in post 55...this will eliminate the lines and it works well, especially on curves.

It would still be nice to see pictures...they always help.

Ray
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2013, 10:07 AM
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Okay I tried something different with the pictures. Try this link now and let me know.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qvllt5nshbkl5qy/xOleI_HXXv

I can get the 180 or 80 grit sand paper for the fender. When I am scuffing the fender by hand I should still follow the same precautions you and Kelly mentioned? As to not put too much pressure and sand at angles instead of straight lines. And should I get the guide coat for the 80 or 180 grit also?

Also when scuffing the inside of the fender with gray pads do the same precautions apply or would I need to apply pressure when using the pad?

Thanks and hopefully the pictures load this time. If not I can try to come up with a different solution.
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2013, 10:28 AM
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I was able to load the pictures...thank you...yesterdays efforts where not a waste of time...you now have learned from experience how delicate the sanding procedure can be...and experience is a very good teacher.

When sanding, it's always a good idea to let the paper do the work...doesn't matter what grit. The minute you apply excessive pressure you will distort the substrate (E coat) and shape of what your sanding. This is most important when working to achieve an automotive finish, unlike sanding dry wall where paint covers most anything and the low gloss and Orange Peel finish of house paint will hide a great number of sins...not so on cars, every imperfection will so in the finished product....especially dark colors and metallic's. Always sand in an X motion...this will remove all those sanding lines quicker from yesterday and keep the curves in your fender looking like curves.
With a Gray Scotch Brite Pad, the pad will act as a cushion and not distort the E-coat...also, it's the inside, all we want to do is get some color on it and a little more protection from the elements.

Seeing that you have sanding lines and it will take forever to get them out with 600 grit, lets resign ourselves to the fact that we are going to apply some Epoxy primer over top of the E-coat that you will have remaining on the fender. Get some 180 grit dry sand paper and using the palm of your hand, go over the outside of the fender...in the hard to reach areas, use the Scotch Brite pad. No or little pressure on the paper...this will go quickly and when it comes time to apply the Epoxy primer, we will use guide coat to make sure that the fenders are straight...today there is no point in using guide coat...we are just roughing up the panel for Epoxy primer.

Ray
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2013, 10:33 AM
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Just on a side note...don't worry about sanding the inside of the fender with 180 grit...all we need is the footprint from the gray scotch brite pad for color.

Ray
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2013, 10:41 AM
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Okay great I will do as you instructed. I will most probably either do it tonight or tomorrow depending on what time allows. Either way I will update you with how it went and as always pictures will follow!

Thanks
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2013, 11:02 AM
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I look forward to it...this is going to be a good learning experience and I always try and find the positive in any situation...to recap what you've learned so far.

1) Sand in a X or cross hatch motion...this keeps the curve in the curve and the rest of the panel straight.
2) Don't apply pressure on a sanding block or sand paper, let the paper do the work.
3) If you make a mistake sanding, it can be repaired and in this case, your fender will be getting more corrosion protection than it had from the manufacturer and the coating you are putting on will be easier to sand...that's a positive from a mistake.
4) Patience is a key personality trait to have...this part of the repair is tedious.
5) Sanding is a PITA...and anything you can do to make your sanding life easier will be done...LOL.
6) Your going to be getting more time behind the spray gun before applying color and clear...that's a good thing...experience is the best teacher...again, another positive from an error.
7) This is harder and more work than you originally thought...now you are starting to understand why it cost so much to paint a car...LOL

There are more things I'm sure...but our goal in the end is to have a vehicle repair done that isn't noticeable...there is a lot more learning to do...LOL...we'll get there.

Ray
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2013, 11:58 AM
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The recap was very helpful!

Agreed the experience is so helpful. I am motivated to do better the second time around!

Lets see how it goes.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2013, 12:11 PM
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Sometimes it's just a good idea to go over things and reassure that things haven't been a waste of time...I know sometimes I've gotten a little depressed (kinda like now...trying to figure out the electrical system on my Wife's car...more wires that don't appear to have a purpose than mosquito's at a nudest colony...wait, they would have purpose...LOL) but, I know when I figure it out...that blower motor is going to work without replacing every module, motor, relay or whatever. I will find the culprit and fix what is necessary...and in that there is satisfaction.

You will do better, you now know more.

Ray
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2013, 02:27 PM
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Wow sounds some decent amount of work. I can help you if you are designing mechanical systems in buildings but that's about it. Hahaha
But good luck!!

And your analogies are priceless. Def going to steal some of them.
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:27 PM
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I just purchased the clear coat and the epoxy primer. Should get it by Wednesday.
Tonight I will sand and update with the pictures.
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:55 PM
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Sounds great my friend, remember, tonight when you sand, let the paper do the work, sand in a X pattern, 5 strokes or so in ///this direction, another 5 strokes or so in \\\ this direction...no fingers, just the palm of your hand. You can and should be a little more aggressive with the Scotch Brite pad in the hard to reach areas...and use the Scotch Brite on the inside of the panel.

When you called SPI, did you mention my name? Not that it would help unless you wanted to use the washroom, then they might offer you a good seat...LOL

Ray
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