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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2013, 03:23 PM
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I did not mention your name but now I know it will come handy in an emergency bathroom situation LOL!

I will keep all of the precautions in mind. When I am sanding with my hand, am I just cutting the sanding paper and using my palm or is there something that you buy that holds the paper and you put your palm on that?

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2013, 04:01 PM
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That's a very good question...what I've done for new students that had a tendency to finger sand (some just gotta use their fingers...don't know why but) at a college I was instructing at was to have them place the Scotch Brite pad in their hand between their palm and the sand paper. I don't know if anyone has ever tried this in a classroom situation before but, this did have good results and usually after several hours of sanding this way, it became a habit and the need for finger sanding went a way.

Hope this helps.

Ray
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Old 09-23-2013, 09:37 PM
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I am almost done with the sanding. Maybe another hour or so and then I can upload some pictures of the progress.

Before I do that I wanted to ask that when I am done with the sanding and scuffing, should I wash the panel off and then take some pictures?
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2013, 09:48 PM
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Yes, wash it, run some Wax and grease remover over it...and don't worry about any bare metal spots...the Epoxy that your getting on Wednesday will after them.

Did you use the scotch brite pad as a buffer between your palm and the paper? If you did, how did it work?

Ray
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Old 09-23-2013, 10:10 PM
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Actually I did not use the scotch brite pad. It was getting a little difficult to get a grip to maintain the X motions. So I tried without it but it was still a little difficult. However, after a little while I got the hang of it. I believe I did much better this time but you can be the judge of that when I upload the pics.

I just have to scuff the inside, clean and then pic time!
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2013, 10:17 PM
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Perfect, if I don't respond right away, don't read into it that I'm not happy with your work...I have an early morning meeting and I should get a little sleep...what a waste of time that is...LOL

Ray
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:10 PM
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No problem. Sleeping is one of my favorite past times!

Anyways I got 180 grit sanding paper. Started dry sanding. Tried to follow the precautions the best I could.
I have uploaded the pictures. Here is the link:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jjbs1uzqs7vsgtv/vu3qDpMV8U

Let me know what you think. If you think it needs to be sanded more or whatever your opinion is. I also took pictures of the inside. I just did a rough scuffing. Let me know if you think more scuffing needs to be done. Also let me know if the pictures are not clear or you need more to be able to judge better.

Thanks!
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2013, 11:22 PM
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That does look much better...before we prime the fender, take the scotch brite pad and go over it quickly one more time...just to be sure that there aren't any shiny spots left on the fender...but, the way it looks now...you get a gold star.

Good job, when are you going to dig into that bumper.

ray
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2013, 11:31 PM
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Great! My hand got so tired sanding it. Task after task I appreciate auto body shops more.

Okay I will go over the fender with scotch brite pad again. Should I go over the whole fender or just the inside?

I plan on digging into the bumper tomorrow. When I am using the red scotch brite pad on the bumper, do I need to follow the same precautions as I did for sanding or is the purpose to just rough it up and get the substrate off?
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2013, 07:06 AM
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What I like to do and it's probably more of good luck thing, like in Hockey where player's don't shave in the playoffs, football they bump helmets after a good play, high fiving the wife for being tolerant of your bad habits and table manners...just before I apply the primer, I give it a going over...take another look at it to make sure that all spots have been sanded....and it opens the E coat up again...I'm sure it's just superstition but...it's never a bad idea to go over your work...several times I've found that small area that I had missed before.

The purpose of sanding the bumper with detergent is to get the mold release off and to gently rough up the plastic for the Epoxy primer. Concentrated more on the outside, we won't be applying much paint to the inside, it's rubber/plastic and won't rust. The Scotch Brite will seem to not dig in on the plastic as well as it did on the E coat, that's Okay, just make sure that all areas are scuffed.

Yes, the respect you are gaining for the body shop guy...and I've always been amazed at how in this trade, the most important job, prepping and sanding, is usually given to the guy with the least amount of experience. Good preppers are worth their weight in Gold...and real hard to find...I always tried to show the preppers I had the utmost of respect...a good prepper can make a bad painter look good, but, a good painter can't make a bad prepper look good.

Ray
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2013, 02:30 PM
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Makes sense to me now.

Ill dig into the bumper today. I should be receiving the other fender today as well.

If that is coated I will go ahead and do the wet sanding with 600 grit. Is it okay if I sand by hand with the 600 grit. I found it more flexible to do it with the hand rather than the block. Or do you think I should stick with the block?

Also the guide coat, can that be purchased at any auto store? Is it available at a store like Menards also?
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:01 PM
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As far as hand wet sanding the other fender goes, that's fine, as long as you use the palm of your hand...I think we virtually have the finger sanding worked right out of you...and that's a good thing. If you do sand through to bare metal, those areas will need to be spot primed.

Guide coat...at Menard's...I am from Canada, we don't have a Menard's...we just got Diet Coke, I don't think Menard's is thinking of an expansion to Canada no matter how much we want guide coat...LOL. If they sell Lacquer Primer in an aerosol can, then Menard's has has guide coat. If they have it in Red or Red Oxide...that would be better. The reason I suggested lacquer primer in an aerosol can is because it dries quickly, doesn't clog sand paper that fast and Red will work for the Black E Coat and the the Gray Epoxy primer that you will be putting on later. Also the price, 3M makes a guide coat which works great but it's way to expensive for what your doing...Lacquer primer was probably the first guide coat made. If they don't have lacquer primer in anaerosol, an automotive store may be where you need to go.

When you sand your bumper with the Scotch Brite pad...no need to guide coat it...it's plastic and your not going to straighten any high or low spots...just rough it up with the pad and warm soapy water.

Now seriously...after I fell asleep at the computer last night I woke up and had this vision of your "Wax and Grease" remover being "Wax and Tar Remover"...is this just in head or do you in fact have Wax and Tar remover?

Also, what brand of base coat are you planning on using...we are going to need to figure out the color. I know you have a code, but, many codes have numerous formulas so it's going to be a trip down to the paint store with either the car or a fender or something with the color of the vehicle on it. They need to check the color to the variant chips that they should have at their location. After we get the paint, we are going to need reducer...maybe if you slip the guy at the paint store $5 or $10 over and above the cost of the paint, he will mix up a pint of base, throw it in a quart can and add the reducer for you...it would save you buying a gallon of reducer.

If you have more questions, ask away.

Ray
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2013, 03:12 PM
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Haha I just noticed the Ontario location, ooops. Lol

Thanks for the info on the guide coat. I will look it up in the stores.

As for the dream you had, low and behold it is reality. I do have wax and tar remover. The reason I bought it was because it said on the bottle that it removes wax, tar, grease along with a few other things for cars. Is that a big no no? Is wax and grease remover specifically something completely different?

As for the base coat I don't really have much of an idea. I can take my car down to the store and do what you suggested.
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:23 PM
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Rust-Oleum Wax & Tar Remover at Menards

This is what I bought
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:38 PM
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I have no idea what made me think of wax and tar remover but, I'm glad I did and not knowing what's inside it...I really can't recommend it...the wax and grease removers used for painting cars is designed for that, pre-cleaning for painting cars. For now, wash the new fender with soap and water and then start sanding...we will need to get some proper pre-cleaner before painting. I don't want you to go through a huge expense...do you know of any body shop near by that if you walked up to them with an empty Windex spray bottle, they might fill it half way for a few dollars? If nothing else SPI sells wax and Grease remover for $27.65 a gallon...but a gallon is a lot of product...I just wish I had my premonition earlier, it could have been ordered with the primer and clear.

I'm sorry I didn't notice it sooner, but, glad I noticed it now.

When it comes to solvent born base coat, when looking at any manufacturer's top of the line product, they are all pretty much equal...a few differences in the way they smell, one might be a little easier to apply depending on the color but, over all very similar. Out of the majors, PPG, Dupont, Sikkens and BASF...PPG's Deltron is probably the most cost effective, they have variant chips, color match is usually close to the chip color (color match in metallic's like silver is often more the painter than it is the code)...but not to worry, we are going to get that all sorted out. If you have a PPG jobber (paint store) close by, that's great...if not, when you chose any brand, make sure that they have variant chips that they can compare to the actual color on your car...choose that code and the rest will be up to you and I.

Before you go to check out the code for your your color...I will give you a list of things to look for and look at and what to do when picking the right chip and code for your car.

I am not trying to confuse you..it's happening all by itself...LOL...it will all make sense in a couple of days. Now do you understand why I said early on that I don't want to give you information overload?...LOL

Ray
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