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  #121 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2013, 09:23 PM
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Thanks a lot. Tomorrow I should be able to get everything.

And the hood is dark grey. It gives a metallic look, idk if that matters

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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2013, 09:51 PM
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I will caution you against using the marks on the mixing cups. I have found they to be less than accurate and they will vary from different manufacturers. You can however use a paint stick since you are using a 1:1 mix product for pimer and clear. Simply make a mark at 2" and a mark at 4", pour the primer to the first mark and the activator to the second mark. You can use any measurement that is smaller than the hieght of the mixing cup, as long as the second mark is double the first mark (for example: 1" and 2", 3" and 6", 1/2"and 1" etc) you are mixing 1:1 products so you need two equal parts of each.

For the respirator, just to make sure you get the right kind, you need one of this kind:
P95 Maintenance-Free Dual Cartridge Respirator - Large

Kelly
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  #123 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2013, 09:52 PM
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It does matter for the fresh base coat as to how well it will cover or hide the existing color. That's why we choose a gray primer...the gray primer will help the fresh base coat cover faster than the dark or black E coat or dark paint on the hood.

When we apply paint to the spray out cards (spray out cards are usually 1/2 black, 1/2 white and will let us know how much paint it will take to achieve hiding).

I just remembered...adhesion promoter for your plastic bumper...this is your call...Epoxy does stick well to virtually any roughed up plastics, adhesion promoter does exactly what the name implies...it promotes adhesion between the plastic and the primer. If you decide to use it, it would need to be purchased at a paint supply store.

Ray
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  #124 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2013, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carolinacustoms View Post
I will caution you against using the marks on the mixing cups. I have found they to be less than accurate and they will vary from different manufacturers. You can however use a paint stick since you are using a 1:1 mix product for pimer and clear. Simply make a mark at 2" and a mark at 4", pour the primer to the first mark and the activator to the second mark. You can use any measurement that is smaller than the hieght of the mixing cup, as long as the second mark is double the first mark (for example: 1" and 2", 3" and 6", 1/2"and 1" etc) you are mixing 1:1 products so you need two equal parts of each.

For the respirator, just to make sure you get the right kind, you need one of this kind:
P95 Maintenance-Free Dual Cartridge Respirator - Large

Kelly
Thanks again Kelly, especially on the respirator, that's why I like when other's chime in.

I also agree with not using the scale on the mixing cup to mix paint. That's why I suggested a disposable ruler...mixing sticks are now costly since the paint company started charging for them.

Ray
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  #125 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2013, 09:38 AM
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Thank you Kelly and Ray. I noted down the respirator you suggested and will be going to get the things today.

Is it possible for me to sand the hood and paint it while it is attached to the car? Since this is my only means of transportation I don't really want to be driving or parked without a hood.

Also I called the body shop to make an appointment for tomorrow to get the paint. What are the things that I should look for when choosing the paint?
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  #126 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2013, 10:26 AM
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you cant use a mixing stick with a mixing cup.
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  #127 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2013, 01:02 PM
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you cant use a mixing stick with a mixing cup.
Point taken Shine...as long as the mixing cup isn't tapered, it works fine, the tapered ones will not give you an accurate mix. The mixing cup should be perfectly cylindrical and I could never figure out why paint companies made them the way they did.

Thanks Shine

Ray
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  #128 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2013, 01:18 PM
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if it's a mixing cup it is usually tapered . the sticks were designed to use with a siphon gun cup .
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2013, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine View Post
you cant use a mixing stick with a mixing cup.
Shine, you may want to re-think that statement.

If you were mixing paint 1:1, and you took a cup of paint and a cup of activator that would be one to one mix, wouldn't it? or, if you market your paint stick at 12 and added color to that mark and then marked your stick at 24 and added activator to that mark, wouldn't that still be a 1:1 mix?

If the cup is tapered then the marks on the cup are compensated for the taper.

If you mark the stick, do you add mix until it reaches the bottom of the mark, the middle, or covers the mark?

Last edited by alittle1; 09-27-2013 at 01:54 PM. Reason: Trivia, is the glass half full.........
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2013, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carolinacustoms View Post
I will caution you against using the marks on the mixing cups. I have found they to be less than accurate and they will vary from different manufacturers. You can however use a paint stick since you are using a 1:1 mix product for pimer and clear. Simply make a mark at 2" and a mark at 4", pour the primer to the first mark and the activator to the second mark. You can use any measurement that is smaller than the hieght of the mixing cup, as long as the second mark is double the first mark (for example: 1" and 2", 3" and 6", 1/2"and 1" etc) you are mixing 1:1 products so you need two equal parts of each.

For the respirator, just to make sure you get the right kind, you need one of this kind:
P95 Maintenance-Free Dual Cartridge Respirator - Large

Kelly
Quote:
Originally Posted by alittle1 View Post
Shine, you may want to re-think that statement.

If you were mixing paint 1:1, and you took a cup of paint and a cup of activator that would be one to one mix, wouldn't it? or, if you market your paint stick at 12 and added color to that mark and then marked your stick at 24 and added activator to that mark, wouldn't that still be a 1:1 mix?
I don't want to speak for Shine but I think what he's alluding to is the fact that most mixing cups are tapered...larger on the top than the bottom so when you use a stick and go one to one, the last "one" will actually have more material volume than the first "one" because of the size difference top to bottom.

Ray
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2013, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
I don't want to speak for Shine but I think what he's alluding to is the fact that most mixing cups are tapered...larger on the top than the bottom so when you use a stick and go one to one, the last "one" will actually have more material volume than the first "one" because of the size difference top to bottom.

Ray
Ray,

Question. When you are adding to a mixing cup, is it sitting flat on the bench or are you holding it in your hand up to the light to get the level 'just' right?
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2013, 02:12 PM
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I have never held a mixing cup up to a light while checking a level or adding more of whatever to it...it's hard enough to get that mixing stick not to move on you when it's level on a bench, let alone holding it up to a light....I even tape the mixing stick to the cup so it doesn't flop around while adding hardner, reducer or whatever.

Why do you ask??????

Ray
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2013, 08:02 PM
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Shine and Ray have valid points, I never really thought about the cups being tapered. I am guilty of using metal paint cans and clean empty reducer cans to mix stuff in because I hardly ever mix a small amount.

Kelly
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2013, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by carolinacustoms View Post
Shine and Ray have valid points, I never really thought about the cups being tapered. I am guilty of using metal paint cans and clean empty reducer cans to mix stuff in because I hardly ever mix a small amount.

Kelly
The best and most accurate are the cylindrical paint can or if your mixing a larger amount a used reducer can with top cut off works well. The tapered mixing cup can be off to a degree and could never figure out why the paint company's would sell something like that when they do stress accuracy.

I wouldn't consider you being guilty, prudent and resourceful yes, but guilty...no...LOL

Ray
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  #135 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2013, 09:12 PM
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So after that discussion should I buy small size metal paint cans because the mixing cups were all tapered.

I say gallon painting cans. Is that what I need or a gallon mixing can is completely different?

Also I am going in the morning to the body shop to get the paint. Are there any things that could help me make a better decision? What range should I expect to pay in?

Thanks for the help!
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