Hi guys
can you give me some advice on this silver metallic is it how it supposes to be?
can you give me some advice on this silver metallic is it how it supposes to be?
cjperotti said:It's hard to tell from a picture. Is the metallics even or blotchy? If it's even it's right. If it's blotchy then you've got either a gun problem or you didn't invest enough time and energy to mixing.
it is coarseness in the metallic, it doesn't look smooth..do you know hwo to set up the gun? if you do can you show me how to set up, metallic is hard to see i was trying my bestcjperotti said:I think that's what I was picking up in your photo. Is coarseness in the metallic’s or the texture of the paint?
acquadigio79 said:Hi guys
can you give me some advice on this silver metallic is it how it supposes to be?
Hi52F1 said:remember 75-85% overlap with metallics and you will do fine
did you already shoot clear over that ?
And as far as a cloud Spray ??
You shoud be shooting 6-8" from the panel
I would say Practice on a Old hood before you shoot the car
52F1
I bought Dupont chromabase + chromabasemaker....and chromaclear with chroma-activator.cjperotti said:Are you sure it's coarser? You may have purchased the wrong color. What brand of paint did you buy? Not all brands will match OEM. Some don't even come close.
do i need to sand between coat? It looked like you use spray can, just it is more even then spray can. LOL do you have AIM so we can talk one on one more easier. thankscjperotti said:Ok, that's more discriptive. Yes, it would appear more or less coarser and not as smooth. The color will appear to be off. However, the only real test is when you clear.
kenseth17 said:If shot dry, it can lighten a metallic up and the surface feel rougher, as the flakes tend to set on the surface and not down and to the paint film, and also stand more on edge reflect more light, lightening the appearance. Metallic shot dry=lighter wetter=darker. Alot of things can change the appearance of a metallic from how its shot to reducer choice and temps and humidity, which is why all parts when shooting a metallic you should try to shoot at the same time.
If you want to spray wetter, these are some things to try. Open up your fluid control knob, turn down your air pressure (at the gun regulator), move slower with your passes, move in closer to the surface. If spraying wetter and you have your gun set up correctly as well as are using good gun technique and overlap and you still wind up with some mottleing or striping, then you can perform a drop coat to even things out. It should be done while the previous coat is still somewhat wet and can still accept the drop coat in with it (metallic is able to settle into the previously shoot coat I guess you could say).
Basecoat will dry to a fairly dull looking apperance though.
I haven't noticed a big problem with basecoat shot a bit dry, but if shot too dry, it can affect the adhesion of the clearcoat, so you should try to shoot somewhat wet (not heavy) and do any drop coating when it can be accepted.
You cannot judge match with just basecoat alone, as the clear will change appearance. When doing a test panel for checking match, a clearcoat is always applied to the panel before checking match.
If your base has set awhile and is dry enough (yours probably should be by now) you could wet the fender by wiping on some water to kind of simulate the clear (at like the door or hood edge) and kind of see what the match looks like, but different lighting conditions (natural, flourecent) can affect the match.
Metallics are tough to get a perfect match panel painting, which is why they are usually blended into existing color on adjacent panels, then those panels cleared. With a good blend, a slight mismatch between the new and old colors then will be difficult for the eye to pick up.
Unless the base has only slight texture or orange peel, it is usually hard to notice once its buried in clear, but if you have a dry and rough metallic, it often takes some hammering on of clear to bury it before you start getting a good wet look to the clear.
kenseth17 said:If shot dry, it can lighten a metallic up and the surface feel rougher, as the flakes tend to set on the surface and not down and to the paint film, and also stand more on edge reflect more light, lightening the appearance. Metallic shot dry=lighter wetter=darker. Alot of things can change the appearance of a metallic from how its shot to reducer choice and temps and humidity, which is why all parts when shooting a metallic you should try to shoot at the same time.
If you want to spray wetter, these are some things to try. Open up your fluid control knob, turn down your air pressure (at the gun regulator), move slower with your passes, move in closer to the surface. If spraying wetter and you have your gun set up correctly as well as are using good gun technique and overlap and you still wind up with some mottleing or striping, then you can perform a drop coat to even things out. It should be done while the previous coat is still somewhat wet and can still accept the drop coat in with it (metallic is able to settle into the previously shoot coat I guess you could say).
Basecoat will dry to a fairly dull looking apperance though.
I haven't noticed a big problem with basecoat shot a bit dry, but if shot too dry, it can affect the adhesion of the clearcoat, so you should try to shoot somewhat wet (not heavy) and do any drop coating when it can be accepted.
You cannot judge match with just basecoat alone, as the clear will change appearance. When doing a test panel for checking match, a clearcoat is always applied to the panel before checking match.
If your base has set awhile and is dry enough (yours probably should be by now) you could wet the fender by wiping on some water to kind of simulate the clear (at like the door or hood edge) and kind of see what the match looks like, but different lighting conditions (natural, flourecent) can affect the match.
Metallics are tough to get a perfect match panel painting, which is why they are usually blended into existing color on adjacent panels, then those panels cleared. With a good blend, a slight mismatch between the new and old colors then will be difficult for the eye to pick up.
Unless the base has only slight texture or orange peel, it is usually hard to notice once its buried in clear, but if you have a dry and rough metallic, it often takes some hammering on of clear to bury it before you start getting a good wet look to the clear.
kenseth17 said:Hmm, not really sure what that would be from. Sure its not something floating around in the shop, or falling from the ceiling or you, or your equiptment or hose, coming from a heater.
I could see metallic particles floating around in the air or overspray and landing on the surface, but don't know if they would appear black or not.
Do you have ventilation? Guess you will have to investigate and see if you can figure out where they are coming from. Make sure the area is clean where you are painting, and wear a spray suit and spray sock.
Although it sounds like you have stuff floating around and landing on the surface and not occuring in the paint or spitting out of the gun, other possibilitys may be, if airhose is old and breaks down inside it can put black specs into your airsupply and then spit out into the paint. And another possibilty for black specs in a paint job is too much humidity (wetting down the floor) which according to something Barry K has mentioned before, can cause the isos to clump together, leaving either white, grey, or black specs that look like dirt. I think the clearcoat would be more prone, but iso's can be in basecoat as well if activated.
kenseth17 said:if you have a lot of trash or black specks in the paint, you could knock it down some with 1500 and spray another coat.
But there was a long thread on here about sanding basecoats, and although most I never had a problem with ppg brand basecoat going over with 1000 to flatten trash and nibs, some members here determined based on experimenting and what they were seeing, you should not sand chromabase flat, knocking down lightly with 1500 I don't think should be a problem. Here is that thread. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/interesting-test-sanding-base-coat-paint-against-data-sheets-recommendation-110339.html
start your spray motion keeping gun parallel to surface and your distance even, pull in trigger, at the end of your spray stroke release trigger (and follow through) before you stop your spray stroke and spraying in the opposite direction. Going the other direction overlap your previous stroke 50 to 75 percent doing the same thing, start off your stroke, pull trigger, realease trigger towards the end of your pass and follow through.
Your wrist may bend throughout your spray stroke, but gun should be kept parallel, you want to avoid arcing the gun outward at the end of your pass.
You should start moving the gun before pulling the trigger, and release the trigger prior to finishing your stroke.
www.itwifeuro.com/Editor/files/GUNTEQU01.pdf
Very good advice..he just wanted to know because he bought 1 qt of DupliClear (not rattle can)that said mixed ready to spray...kenseth17 said:Boy I have no idea if it would work together, but probably not a good idea to use the duplicolor clear. Even if it does happen to not react with the base and stay adhered, its probably not going to provide the uv protection the basecoat needs and will not leave you a very durable finish. I've used some sort of rattle can clear over basecoat before (believe it was tempo) in a pinch on a small test panel for checking match, and got no reaction, but no way would I want that to be my finish on an exterior car part subject to the environment.
I'd use the chromaclear as that on the other hand you know will work with the chromabase, which as designed to work with and recommended by dupont as a clear for chromabase. Even if you purchased a cheaper automotive 2k urethane clear, such as nason or other second line, it should work with the chromabase and provide a lot better results and durability then the duplicolor stuff will give you.