[acquadigio79]

Hi guys

can you give me some advice on this silver metallic is it how it supposes to be?

[cjperotti]

It's hard to tell from a picture. Is the metallics even or blotchy? If it's even it's right. If it's blotchy then you've got either a gun problem or you didn't invest enough time and energy to mixing.

[acquadigio79]

Originally Posted by cjperotti

It's hard to tell from a picture. Is the metallics even or blotchy? If it's even it's right. If it's blotchy then you've got either a gun problem or you didn't invest enough time and energy to mixing.

it's even but it seems a little coarse not fine. I think I have to play with the gun for a while..

[cjperotti]

I think that's what I was picking up in your photo. Is coarseness in the metallic’s or the texture of the paint?

[acquadigio79]

Originally Posted by cjperotti

I think that's what I was picking up in your photo. Is coarseness in the metallic’s or the texture of the paint?

it is coarseness in the metallic, it doesn't look smooth..do you know hwo to set up the gun? if you do can you show me how to set up, metallic is hard to see i was trying my best

I set my compressor up to 90psi, set the gun's reg @ 45 like manual said. I played with the gun a little bit..hard to see in silver all i saw was metallic flew everywhere in the air.

I don't know how to adjust the gun.

I know I should get more like cloud spray.

[52F1]

Originally Posted by acquadigio79

Hi guys

can you give me some advice on this silver metallic is it how it supposes to be?

remember 75-85% overlap with metallics and you will do fine

did you already shoot clear over that ?

And as far as a cloud Spray ??

You shoud be shooting 6-8" from the panel

I would say Practice on a Old hood before you shoot the car


52F1

[cjperotti]

Ok, that's what I needed to know. Some silver metallics are coarser than others, which is what you have. When first applied it can throw you off and you think you've done something wrong. An application of clear coat will darken it up and it should be fine.

It doesn't appear that you need any help in adjusting your gun. Your doing just fine. Just remember to maintain it and keep it clean.

[acquadigio79]

Originally Posted by 52F1

remember 75-85% overlap with metallics and you will do fine

did you already shoot clear over that ?

And as far as a cloud Spray ??

You shoud be shooting 6-8" from the panel

I would say Practice on a Old hood before you shoot the car


52F1

Hi

I was practicing on my fender as you can see in the picture, i didn't spray clear just base-coat...after 30mins i took it down and compare to other paint...my paint does looked all silver no orange peel..but but the paint is not as fine as the paint on the car. On the gun when I spray is it supposed to be cloud or mist when I spray? my doesn't look wet at all...it looked likt it dry right off afer I sprayed it..

I saw on youtube video, it supposed to have a wet look when you spray it.

Can you give me some advice or idea why?

[cjperotti]

Are you sure it's coarser? You may have purchased the wrong color. What brand of paint did you buy? Not all brands will match OEM. Some don't even come close.

[acquadigio79]

Originally Posted by cjperotti

Are you sure it's coarser? You may have purchased the wrong color. What brand of paint did you buy? Not all brands will match OEM. Some don't even come close.

I bought Dupont chromabase + chromabasemaker....and chromaclear with chroma-activator.

Sorry to confuse you there, I mean the paint is not fine as the one one the car. it looked a little rougher and not smooth. it likes when you compare 800 to 1500 grit. you know what i am trying to say..

[cjperotti]

Ok, that's more discriptive. Yes, it would appear more or less coarser and not as smooth. The color will appear to be off. However, the only real test is when you clear.

[acquadigio79]

Originally Posted by cjperotti

Ok, that's more discriptive. Yes, it would appear more or less coarser and not as smooth. The color will appear to be off. However, the only real test is when you clear.

do i need to sand between coat? It looked like you use spray can, just it is more even then spray can. LOL do you have AIM so we can talk one on one more easier. thanks

[cjperotti]

You may not have to if you didn’t go over 24hrs before coating with clear. However, I would recommend adhesion promoter regardless. I’m not sure if I have AIM or not.

[kenseth17]

If shot dry, it can lighten a metallic up and the surface feel rougher, as the flakes tend to set on the surface and not down and to the paint film, and also stand more on edge reflect more light, lightening the appearance. Metallic shot dry=lighter wetter=darker. Alot of things can change the appearance of a metallic from how its shot to reducer choice and temps and humidity, which is why all parts when shooting a metallic you should try to shoot at the same time.

If you want to spray wetter, these are some things to try. Open up your fluid control knob, turn down your air pressure (at the gun regulator), move slower with your passes, move in closer to the surface. If spraying wetter and you have your gun set up correctly as well as are using good gun technique and overlap and you still wind up with some mottleing or striping, then you can perform a drop coat to even things out. It should be done while the previous coat is still somewhat wet and can still accept the drop coat in with it (metallic is able to settle into the previously shoot coat I guess you could say).

Basecoat will dry to a fairly dull looking apperance though.

I haven't noticed a big problem with basecoat shot a bit dry, but if shot too dry, it can affect the adhesion of the clearcoat, so you should try to shoot somewhat wet (not heavy) and do any drop coating when it can be accepted.

You cannot judge match with just basecoat alone, as the clear will change appearance. When doing a test panel for checking match, a clearcoat is always applied to the panel before checking match.

If your base has set awhile and is dry enough (yours probably should be by now) you could wet the fender by wiping on some water to kind of simulate the clear (at like the door or hood edge) and kind of see what the match looks like, but different lighting conditions (natural, flourecent) can affect the match.
Metallics are tough to get a perfect match panel painting, which is why they are usually blended into existing color on adjacent panels, then those panels cleared. With a good blend, a slight mismatch between the new and old colors then will be difficult for the eye to pick up.

Unless the base has only slight texture or orange peel, it is usually hard to notice once its buried in clear, but if you have a dry and rough metallic, it often takes some hammering on of clear to bury it before you start getting a good wet look to the clear.

[acquadigio79]

Originally Posted by kenseth17

If shot dry, it can lighten a metallic up and the surface feel rougher, as the flakes tend to set on the surface and not down and to the paint film, and also stand more on edge reflect more light, lightening the appearance. Metallic shot dry=lighter wetter=darker. Alot of things can change the appearance of a metallic from how its shot to reducer choice and temps and humidity, which is why all parts when shooting a metallic you should try to shoot at the same time.

If you want to spray wetter, these are some things to try. Open up your fluid control knob, turn down your air pressure (at the gun regulator), move slower with your passes, move in closer to the surface. If spraying wetter and you have your gun set up correctly as well as are using good gun technique and overlap and you still wind up with some mottleing or striping, then you can perform a drop coat to even things out. It should be done while the previous coat is still somewhat wet and can still accept the drop coat in with it (metallic is able to settle into the previously shoot coat I guess you could say).

Basecoat will dry to a fairly dull looking apperance though.

I haven't noticed a big problem with basecoat shot a bit dry, but if shot too dry, it can affect the adhesion of the clearcoat, so you should try to shoot somewhat wet (not heavy) and do any drop coating when it can be accepted.

You cannot judge match with just basecoat alone, as the clear will change appearance. When doing a test panel for checking match, a clearcoat is always applied to the panel before checking match.

If your base has set awhile and is dry enough (yours probably should be by now) you could wet the fender by wiping on some water to kind of simulate the clear (at like the door or hood edge) and kind of see what the match looks like, but different lighting conditions (natural, flourecent) can affect the match.
Metallics are tough to get a perfect match panel painting, which is why they are usually blended into existing color on adjacent panels, then those panels cleared. With a good blend, a slight mismatch between the new and old colors then will be difficult for the eye to pick up.

Unless the base has only slight texture or orange peel, it is usually hard to notice once its buried in clear, but if you have a dry and rough metallic, it often takes some hammering on of clear to bury it before you start getting a good wet look to the clear.

You are right about the DRY, it looked brighter....after I shot it look rought on the surface. it felt like metallic laid on top of the paint.

Do i need to sand it down before after apply 2nd coat?

if yes how long do I have to wait?

I think i have to play around with my gun, it didn't look right when I shot it
I couldn't tell from silver color. All I saw was metallic flew everywhere. I saw people shot before it came out like MIST, but mine more heavy mist and not wide enough.