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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2011, 11:14 AM
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I learned to paint from an experienced instructor at a community college, in the 1970's. He would dip the stir stick in the mixing cup, and pull it out, and by watching the paint run off the stick, and listening to the sound, would say thin some more, or that is good to spray. Basically a variation of Milo's method.

Ryan,
Here is a tip to help you. Start taking notes of every thing you can think of about how you are spraying paint, and then write down the results. I start off with time, the temperature, weather conditions. Write down exact amounts paint, reducer, activators, and anything else you. Write down pressure at the gun. Try to remember exactly how you moved the gun, the distance to the panel, the number of turns open on the gun controls.
When you change something, you will then start to notice a pattern. This will enable you to start making intelligent choices on more changes to improve what you do.
Always read the data sheets that come with the paint products you use.
Expect to have to practice a bit before you can lay down good paint.

Here is a basic tip. Orange peel, means the paint is too thick, or sprayed too dry.
Paint too thin, and or sprayed too wet will run, or sag. I have heard some of the others on this board refer to runs as "flow indicators"

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2011, 11:51 AM
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Yes, its normal to have no shine,the shine comes from the clear....
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:42 PM
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Okay, I just sprayed anothre panel and it looks textured.... i know I ****ed up this one.... what would cause this
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:54 PM
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What did you do different, what did you do the same?
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:08 PM
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adjusting your gun

Since I did this it works a whole lot better:

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...your%20gun.htm

Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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Old 03-04-2011, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvpi
Okay, I just sprayed anothre panel and it looks textured.... i know I ****ed up this one.... what would cause this
did you check the viscosity?
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Old 03-04-2011, 08:43 PM
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upped the PSI to 30 at the input of the gun and changed the fan
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:37 AM
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You reduced the base ,right????
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Old 03-05-2011, 08:24 AM
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Yep. One to one
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Old 03-06-2011, 05:40 AM
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This ones kinda tough, You may have to hold the gun a little closer to the work,sometimes if your too far away the base starts drying before it hits the work ,this also happens on very hot days ,the base drys with a sandpaper like texture ....Are you using the proper reducer for the temp? you havent substituted the reducer for lacquer thinner or acitone have you..Your tip should not be any bigger than a 1.4 ....
Did you read the SPI link one more time posted ? theres some valuable info there. You really should start out with a single stage (SS) like acrilic enamel to get a good feel for the gun,base is a lot tougher to learn with...
Most paint stores have a shelf with paint that wasnt picked up or mis mixed I've picked paints up for 20.00 a gal. you'll still have to buy the hardener but its about the cheapest you'll find to practice with...
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Old 03-06-2011, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvpi
Yep. One to one
You could try one to one and a little bit more reducer if the viscosity is to thick
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:20 AM
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Okay, so I got it right.... almost completely... ON MY lower fender on my car.... IM SO DAMN PROUD OF MYSELF.... WOOOHOOOO








but...
I had CC runs and I had either solvent pop or dirt... either way im going to wetsand it and see how good I can make it. If its not good enough its sand down and try again...BUT



My cheap *** harbor freight gun kept SPUTTERING and not shooting paint and than shooting paint. This happened to all the guns from there.... not sure what that is about.

It looks better than the rust that was there so im happy about that.... i guess this was not a complete failure... but this is still insanity.
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Old 03-09-2011, 05:00 AM
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If it is solvent pop, it will get worse as you sand because you will break open then ones that are not quite to the surface. And solvent pop is WAY more evenly distributed than dirt. They also don't look the same once you see what solvent pop actually looks like. And as for HF guns, that's why the ones of us that do this for a living stress on buying decent equipment. You can buy inexpensive equipment, just don't buy the cheapest you can find! There is a reason you can pick those guns up on sale for $20.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2011, 06:18 AM
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Sorry cant help you with the runs.but as for the sputting it sounds like one of those screens between the cup and the gun body ...pull the cup off the gun and if theres a screen, throw it away and put it back together without one...
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:53 AM
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Good job! It just feels nice when something works.

I do not know if you took my suggestion to write down everything you did, but if you did, now you can duplicate what you did last time. Even if you did not, try to remember the details, and write them down now.

Once you have this data base, you can make a minor change, and see what happens, and then you will know how minor changes improve the finish, or do not improve it.
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