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Old 01-29-2008, 11:23 AM
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Fisheyes please go away

I do alittle paint on harley fatboy sheetmetal and i keep getting fisheyes.I wash surface with simple green ,then dawn,then with gloves on put on my stands wipe down with wax and grease remover ,wipe off with micro fiber cloths,spray glass cleaner and wipe it down and it seam to get pin hole spot in clear coat were it white.It's like i got a sowing need a push it through the clear coat.All i paint is with bc-25 black HOK so it shows up only after i have wet sanded and buffed out my hours of work .Then i have to do it over I have4 air filters and a sharpe desacant type dryer system and my scfm are 16.0 at 90lbs and use sata minijet for clear coat.Also compress is single stage 80 gallon 7.5 hp.Any help please

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Old 01-29-2008, 12:07 PM
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The problem is solvent pop (minor) and they are there before you wet-sand and before you buff Unless you are buffing to soon and the heat is magnifying the problem.

Here are the causes for a minor popping like you have.
Improper base flashing between coats and or between base and applying clear clear.
Improper flashing of clear coats.
Improper reducer temp range being used (too fast or to slow)
Improper activator range in clear.
Improper activation ratio.
Activator not mixed in clear good enough.
Improper gun adjustment.
Depending on clear, this can be caused when using a good clear if first coat is sprayed dry. Or what they call a tack coat.
Water in line.

West sand clear so slick and set outside for a full day before re-clearing or at this point it will just keep doing it.

Last edited by BarryK; 01-29-2008 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:29 PM
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Barry pretty much has it covered.
What temp is the metal at when your painting?
Multiple pin hole pop is "usually" not enough flash time between coats and low temps.I've only experienced this once and it was with black and not allowing enough flash before clearing.
Black is the slowest flashing base there is and giving it double the "recomended" flash time is a good thing.We get in a hurry to finish things and that is our down fall. Base takes a LOT longer to flash in cooler temps and even an hour is not too long between coats.
I still get periodic pop in most everything in the winter.You can take a toothpick and fill the "holes" with clear if you want while it's still "wet".
One other thing is having used lacquer thinner to clean your gun or storing it with lac in it which leaves a seedy type residue or wiping out your cup with a rag and having lint inside the cup and it ends up getting sprayed out in the clear. Most frown on using the strainers which go into the gun body between the gun and cup but when shooting clear,I still use them as they are the last line of defense against trash. Just be sure to pull and clean them as well when cleaning the gun.
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:33 PM
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How long are your flash times? As pointed out, if the first coat is too wet still, the solvent will escape in the time while the new coat is still softish.
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Old 01-30-2008, 08:07 PM
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I tend to think you are solvent popping as well, I have alot of experience with HOK products and the flash times are super important, if you are putting on really wet coats them you really need to let them flash out so you are mot trapping solvents under successive coats. With HOK I have had the best gloss retention by clearing (UFC-35) allowing at least 24 hours to dry, then colorsanding with 600 wet and re-clearing(flo-coating) with the clear mixed 2-1-1. With small parts like tanks and fenders you shouldnt even need to sand and buff. I have finished many moto parts and helmets like this with outstanding results!! Overalls on car turnout great too, I know its alot of work to sand clean and retape everything but the results are show quality.
the trick with HOK clears is to let the clear get sticky to the touch,(will not string off your finger) then put another coat on. this is super important!! You have to monitor this very closley. If you are doing a tank and dont have anywhere to touch it to test use some masking paper or the stand you have it on to test. Hope this helps out
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Old 01-31-2008, 03:33 AM
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Flash time

Thanks for your help on this problem i am having.I have been painting for a year now and ever since i started i have had this problem.I get suggestions from people at body shops saying i had a compressor problem so i bought a 80 gallon compressor and it still happen,then i bought a 469.00 sharpe dryer and it still happens,sata guns,ect..It seems my tools are not the problem and what i am not doing right is.I am trying some things a member suggested and i will add yours to it and maybe it will turn out.There is a few times that i did not need to touch it.Would useing and different brand clear not work with HOK paints.The activator is so much money and what these ebay people pay for all my work is not panning out,but i still want them to get a quality job anyhow .As far as flash time ,i put on a med. coat so it is sticky and won't run and then i put another 4-6 coats on because of H D decals i put on tanks.Should i give it more time .I wait 10-15 min. between coats and i am using ru-311 at 65-70 shop degrees.Ebay is just a sorce to get back some money i spent learning this trade so if need to stick to uc-35 clear i guess i will have to.
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Old 01-31-2008, 06:13 AM
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When all else fails-add "fish eye remover" to your paint.
It really works and improoves flow.
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Old 01-31-2008, 06:45 AM
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Fat HOK does not reccomend painting if temps are under 70 deegrees,
i would also use fast reducer in those temps so the solvent would leave the clear faster. I have painted in these temps and the flash time is more like 20 minutes. if you are spraying in a booth let it run for 30 minutes after your last coat as the airflow will pull more solvwents out as well. when you say 4-6 coats that is your problem in my opinion.HOK reccomends a maximum of 3 wet coats at one time, if you are trying to hide decal edges use the flo-coat method, spray your first clear in 3 coats let dry at least 24 hours and sand with 600wet clean everything with post sanding cleaner(KC-20) not a slovent based wax and grease remover, re-tape/mask and flo-coat. only with the UC-35 add 6-8 oz. extra reducer per mixed quart and start with a med tack coat, then go with 2 wet coats and you are done, if you can keep it clean buffing will be minimal. This should solve your problems.
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Old 01-31-2008, 07:21 AM
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If the compressor is in the same room your painting in it will spew oil into the air via it's breather opening and has often been found to be a cause of fisheyes.
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Old 01-31-2008, 07:39 AM
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Barry K is correct. The only time we get these is apply to much clear, to fast. It caps the solvent in, and they have to push there way back out. These are the small holes you are seeing, and they are seen the most on black. You will not get rid of them until you sand it all back off, and start again. Take your time! the solvents have to git out.
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