[Siggy_Freud]

Hey all,

I've been doing some research trying to find what I need to get an LS1-based 4L60E to mount up to the 307 SBC I have in my 68 Camaro. I already have the 4L60E on the way, as it's coming with the LS1. I don't want to put the motor in right away, due to the cost of gather everything else I need to do the full swap.

I'll be building a Megasquirt trans controller, which will later continue to work with the LS1's megasquirt I'll be putting in.

I have seen adapter kits that supposedly allow you to mount the 4l60e to the 1-piece rear main seal SBC (86 and up I believe), but nothing referring to SBC motors of the 60s and 70s.

Anyone know what I could use to mount the 4L60E to my 307? I've heard someone mention and older style torque converter, but not sure whats available or if that is feasible.

If I wasn't going to reuse everything for the LS1 build, I'd just go with a 700, but if I can get this to work, 90% of what I buy/use can be reused anyways. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Dylan.

[tnsmith10]

Originally Posted by Siggy_Freud

Hey all,

I've been doing some research trying to find what I need to get an LS1-based 4L60E to mount up to the 307 SBC I have in my 68 Camaro. I already have the 4L60E on the way, as it's coming with the LS1. I don't want to put the motor in right away, due to the cost of gather everything else I need to do the full swap.

I'll be building a Megasquirt trans controller, which will later continue to work with the LS1's megasquirt I'll be putting in.

I have seen adapter kits that supposedly allow you to mount the 4l60e to the 1-piece rear main seal SBC (86 and up I believe), but nothing referring to SBC motors of the 60s and 70s.

Anyone know what I could use to mount the 4L60E to my 307? I've heard someone mention and older style torque converter, but not sure whats available or if that is feasible.

If I wasn't going to reuse everything for the LS1 build, I'd just go with a 700, but if I can get this to work, 90% of what I buy/use can be reused anyways. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Dylan.

physically it will bolt up minus 1 bolt. and you would have to change the bell housing bolts as well since the bolts they use for the LS motors are a metric thread.
the problem is going to be with the converter, crank and flexplate.
the flexplate for the 4l60e for your LS is different and more than likely is in a different depth than the older flexplate because of the late 4l60e converters depth. the converter is going to be either a 300 or a 302 mm converter, and the pilots on those converters are different than the typical older sbc., and more than likely will not fit in the back of the crank.
as far as switching out to another type of 4l60e converter, that also will not work as the later 4l60e's do not have the polished end of the input shaft for lock up like the older 4l60e's/700r4's do.

[Siggy_Freud]

Thanks for the info.

What prevents me from using the kit below to adapt it to my SBC. They specify it's for a 1 piece rear main seal setup, but why wouldn't it work on a two?

http://www.jegs.com/i/GM%20Performan...0002/-1?CT=999


Edit: I see now that the part says "Note: You will require an older style flexplate if installed on a two piece style rear main seal small block engine or using the 4L70E trans on a big block engine."

So does this mean I could use my current flexplate, and this kit, and get it to physically bolt up?

[tnsmith10]

Originally Posted by Siggy_Freud

Thanks for the info.

What prevents me from using the kit below to adapt it to my SBC. They specify it's for a 1 piece rear main seal setup, but why wouldn't it work on a two?

http://www.jegs.com/i/GM%20Performan...0002/-1?CT=999


Edit: I see now that the part says "Note: You will require an older style flexplate if installed on a two piece style rear main seal small block engine or using the 4L70E trans on a big block engine."

So does this mean I could use my current flexplate, and this kit, and get it to physically bolt up?

id say yes, because the only real difference i know between the older 2 piece rear main flexplate and the 1 piece is the opening for the crank.
from what i can tell, that kit from jegs along with your 307 flexplate should work.
the one thing that does concern me though is nothing for the pilot of the converter so, id recommend that when bolting up the converter that all bolts be put in flush before tightening.

[Siggy_Freud]

Sounds like I'll have to give it a go.

So you're saying get the bolts flush so I'm sure I get that converter on even? Makes sense.

I'll take photos and do a write-up so others can see how its done (or not done hehe).

[SSedan64]

It will also make sure you have the TC/TorqueConverter installed correctly.
Rotating & Pushing so the Input Shaft splines, Stator Support splines and Pump Lugs/Splines are engaged.

TC Install Tips:
http://www.tciauto.com/tc/auto-trans-faq#4
http://www.tciauto.com/tc/auto-trans-faq#5

Trans Do's & Dont's:
http://www.tciauto.com/tc/dos-donts

Trans & TC Fluid Capacities:
http://www.tciauto.com/tc/fluid-capacity

[Siggy_Freud]

Thanks for the guides and reminders .

Fortunately, I've done a tranny install/removal 3 or 4 times and haven't messed it up yet, but always good to keep the dos and don'ts close in mind.

[SSedan64]

You're Welcome Dylan,
I try to Post those 2 FAQ Tips anytime a member is dealing with installing a Trans & TC. There have been many members that didn't get the Pump lugs engaged and damaged the Pump/Gears.

Sounds like you're gonna have a very fun ride when the LS/60E is dropped in.
What rear Gear ratio have you chosen to go with the O/D Trans?

Good Calc. here for mph/rpm >> http://www.f-body.org/gears/ & Trans ratios etc.. >> http://www.maliburacing.com/auto_tranny_id.htm

Todd

[Siggy_Freud]

I'm thinking of going with a 3.23 or 3.55 ratio. Don't need anything too aggressive as this is my DD. The 1-2 drop will be a bit of a bog, but eventually I'll just build the engine to overcome it.

We have a 3.55 in our supercharged stang, and it has plenty of power to overcome the gearing. 1st gear is almost a waste as is.

I'd rather have the MPG and comfort on the highway, and then used forced induction to get me the seat of the pants feel I'll eventually want.

What do you think?

[SSedan64]

Sounds like a good plan.
One thing, choose rear gearing that will keep the Engine rpm in the Cam's power band, to prevent engine lugging in O/D.